tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-148709762023-11-16T05:08:23.472-08:00Jason Kruk - blogCanadian alpinist Jason KrukJKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-79175475900335111112012-09-19T11:45:00.000-07:002012-09-22T07:33:25.940-07:00Mt. Alberta North Face<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ9h5U4UVVS4lIN0_Ikc-h7b468frMj3_WrbzEfUkEkAN5jo9ojWrNh1Qcp5a7k4Bxzg5S6vlLFmpYNwHSlnyikySmkR4siom6hcQ8GySQnRFjjVzPpsV35-T-sFh2bNpSlWphA/s1600/AlbertaNorthFaceLavigneKruk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJ9h5U4UVVS4lIN0_Ikc-h7b468frMj3_WrbzEfUkEkAN5jo9ojWrNh1Qcp5a7k4Bxzg5S6vlLFmpYNwHSlnyikySmkR4siom6hcQ8GySQnRFjjVzPpsV35-T-sFh2bNpSlWphA/s400/AlbertaNorthFaceLavigneKruk.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="st" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>John Scurlock's amazing photo of </i></span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mt. Alberta's North Face, with our line of ascent. The yellow dot marks the entrance to the amazing cave we explored.</span></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">From September 6th to the 9th I teamed up with my good friend Josh Lavigne from Canmore for a rare ascent of the north face of Mt. Alberta. I hadn't had a good Rockies alpine hit for almost a year. I'm usually a pretty easy going guy, but I was going to start flipping tables if I missed my shot at trying a big Rockies rig this time. The weather was going to be splitter but a large amount of fresh snow had already accumulated in the mountains and temps were looking fresh overnight. Conditions on the north faces seemed pretty wintery. Mount Alberta immediately came to mind as a good objective. The snow was hopefully forming good névé on the boilerplate ice face and the headwall, while steep, wasn't as big as say, something really big like the North Twin. We'd hopefully have more than enough good weather to deal with the particularly slow nature of the difficult alpine drytooling we expected to encounter.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I was really looking forward to teaming up with Josh. I had known him in passing for years. He, a regular out on the Coast, and I, a frequent visitor to the Rockies. I got to know him a lot better when Hayden and I were crashed on his and Andrew Wexler's couch for a couple weeks when we were trying to climb the North Twin a couple springs ago and again this past winter down in Argentina. He left his job at CHM to fly down to Chalten when the news reached that Carlyle was stuck high on Aguja St. Exupery. Her passing was really hard times for us all, but Josh knew her the best. As tribute to her memory he had continued to live by the values they shared, especially alpinism and the love for adventure. Josh was coming off a big, intense send on Mt. Asgard on Baffin Island. I knew he'd be fit and stoked and we'd do well together, despite having only shared the rope a few times at the crags.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The long hike up the Cromwell valley and over Whooley Shoulder to the ACC's Alberta Hut was very familiar, having done it on two previous occasions. This time my mind was at rest. To be honest, after dropping in on two epic attempts at the neighboring North Twin, it felt like I was on a bit of an alpine vacation.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We left the hut at 4:20 the next morning, and followed our noses to the base of Alberta. We took only one 30L backpack and one small hydration pack for the leader. Shockingly light, modern gear is incredible. At the bottom of my pack was one of those new delux therm-a-rests and a small ovular tarp Josh had stitched up, hopefully our slim bivy setup would remain unused. Ha ha. Unfortunately, we bumbled around a little bit in the dark, unable to locate the rappel necessary to gain the glacier below the north face. We ended up committing to a few new rappels, just to get it over with. Sometimes a little beta on route finding ain't so bad. We were climbing in my favourite style: with new route eyes. Meaning no topos, no beta, just climbing what looked best. Pure adventure climbing. It get's me fired up every time!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Day light broke and we got our first look at the face. During an ascent of the north face in winter conditions, every climber must be drawn to the incredible WI5+ pillar that forms seemingly reliably halfway up the headwall. It's one of the classiest stretches of ice I've seen on a big mountain route, and provides easy (or easier) passage around what would otherwise be very time-consuming steep drytooling... At least for a pitch. We were aiming for the water ice, and would drytool above and below it, that was the plan.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPS-WWnJflXoaWZCwCGhZ7-gZ3NdOsoX5XyIKZDr_AfTFi5udIvyq-Z_GF9knx0vBffpxCezNVTCIQjMxYrHWadg2w5S-yHg-NnHji1qZmzBVrZz8gY7zuKtV8Cuweu95SmC99w/s1600/P1040926-L.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPS-WWnJflXoaWZCwCGhZ7-gZ3NdOsoX5XyIKZDr_AfTFi5udIvyq-Z_GF9knx0vBffpxCezNVTCIQjMxYrHWadg2w5S-yHg-NnHji1qZmzBVrZz8gY7zuKtV8Cuweu95SmC99w/s400/P1040926-L.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>A very foreshortened look up the 1000m face from the glacier below with the moon poking out above the summit. The water ice pillar can be seen just left of center on the headwall. Josh Lavigne photo.</i></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">We soloed around a gaping-schrund and belayed two easy mixed rock pitches to get established on the ice face. Coiling the ropes, we soloed the ice to the base of the yellow band. I thought conditions were pretty good, we climbed through everything: supportive, boot-top powder; névé; hard, old ice; fresh blue stuff.<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> The pitches through the yellow band were low-angle and easy, but insecure and required care, with lots of fresh snow over supremely chossy stone. </span>Eventually, we were below the headwall, staring up. We followed ground climbed by Steve House and Vince Anderson in 2008 to the top of the ice feature we were gunning for. Stacked pitches of real deal M7 gained the ice. Josh did a bang-up job at the lead here. At the crux of the House-Anderson, Josh whipped off the sloping, snowed-up holds four times, eventually ripping out the shaky pin placed on the first ascent. Finally, only upon my suggestion, he conceded and stepped in a shoulder sling to get past the move troubling us. This was the only bit of aid for the leader or second on the entire route.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">Wow, the waterfall ice pitches were stellar! Wildly overhanging, but with a good stem out right on rock where needed. Josh and I have both climbed a lot of this stuff, and ranked this ice feature very near the top of the list of all time classic ice. A short stretch of mixed lay above and I climbed this to the point where the ice was flowing from. I mantled on top of an icy ledge and peered inside the cave feature, it appeared to be a pretty stellar bivy. The small opening at the back of the cave was also intriguing, I wondered if the cave continued deeper. We knew we had to climb up and right from this point if we wanted the easiest way off the headwall. It was longer and steeper up and left. I explored a ledge out right leading hopefully to a system we spied from below.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">The ledge was choked with snow had a bulging wall above it, forcing you off balance. As I awkwardly switched from wallowing across on my knees to tip-toes, I tried to imagine a couple of big dudes like Vince and Steve balancing across this ledge and really couldn't! An email from Vince I later </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">received</span> confirmed they had in fact used this ledge to traverse to easier ground. From this perspective I also got a good look at the thin crack systems that led back out left, straight up and through the steepest part of the headwall remaining. Wild-looking climbing, but too tempting to resist. </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The
rock quality up to this point had been reasonable. A real connoisseur
might call it choss, but it was sufficiently held together by cold temps
and snow and ice to protect adequately on the bits where you needed it most. </span>We still had a bit of time before dark to continue upwards, but I reckoned a decent nights sleep would be better for the steeps above, and besides, I really wanted to explore the cave!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">Josh joined me at the cave entrance and we agreed a stop here would be the best tactic. We poked our heads inside the cave and a large room appeared. A horizontal oasis in a vertical desert. It was great to take off helmets and harnesses and move around freely. Josh dealt with the gear and I grabbed my headlamp to go explore. Right away the cave opened to flat ground and easy walking. A very fine yellow silt lined the ground, the smooth twisting walls were coated with very large rime ice crystals and there was a very slight breeze. I explored deeper into the cave for about 5 minutes until I became a little scared by myself. I turned around to go get Josh.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">We must have walked that thing for 20 minutes or more, going deeper and deeper into Mt. Alberta. I was sure we would dead-end soon, but we'd turn a corner and another hidden hallway would appear, luring us further. After several hundred meters of exploration we both decided we should probably get back to the task of climbing this big face. Were we going to follow this thing to the end? We came to climb, not cave, really. We were pretty hungry and thirsty, so we turned around to go brew up.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">At first light I led out around the left side of the roof of the cave, directly up the headwall. The exposure was an intense wake up... way better than the starbucks instant coffee we had just gulped down. Steep, thin drytooling with awkward feet. The rock was pretty shit. I left the gear at the lip of the roof and climbed further and further above it. I was conscientious of the shift in my focus from my initial terror as I entered the no-fall zone to a very deep mental clarity. I maintained a sort-of acute attention to every detail, my mind completely free of excess noise. Slow, systematic upward progress, crucial for survival up this terrain. I was jolted into reality when without warning a large, unstable pillar of rock I was stemmed around collapsed, hitting me in the chest and falling between my feet. It brushed by the ropes, I felt a tug on my harness but I maintained hold of my tool placements torqued in a thin crack. Had the ropes been clipped through any gear I would have likely been pulled from my strenuous stance. I was hoping the trundled rock would reveal solid protection behind it but no such luck. I gave myself a quick mental pep talk. </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">It's hard to fully relax with mono-point crampons balanced on small edges.</span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I reminded myself this is the very thing I live for and there was no other place in the world I'd rather be in this moment. My only way out was up. It's always a weird feeling for me to leave a resting point mid runout and continue questing onwards. I delicately hooked and scratched my way up the remainder of the pitch, locking back into meditation and striving for complete precision and perfection of movement. The belay required time and creativity to construct and I was feeling very tired mentally upon securing myself to the anchor.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">Josh swung through and led a shorter pitch up and right. Another steep pitch on better rock followed, still forcing large runouts though. Briefly on this pitch was the only time during the route I would remove my gloves and crimp on the thin edges instead of hook them with my icetools. I stopped short at a sheltered stance out left, brought Josh up. The next pitch looked like a blockbuster. I could feel we were nearing the very top of the highest point of the headwall. Above, a slightly overhanging feature of stacked changing corners continued out of sight. Josh was stoked to swing through on lead. Steep, psychical drytooling, good gear and tool placements when needed kept his momentum going through the wild terrain. After following a full pitch of strenuous climbing I reached the final crux overhang that Josh had pulled way out from the belay. I was overwhelmed with appreciation for the outrageous position and difficult climbing we were blessed with on this adventure. Another outrageous pitch of M7+++. The summit ridge was now in our sites, but another long pitch of low angle mixed ground remained between us and the end of the difficulties. This sort of climbing is frustratingly insecure, my periodic efforts at digging for protection were pretty much pointless. I balanced upward on my frontpoints, knowing it would be over soon. I reached solid glacier ice and sunk in two bomber screws, relieved to have it in the bag. Josh swung through up the ice to the ridge and we simul-climbed the remainder of the double-corniced ridge to the summit of Mt. Alberta.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Following the second pitch through the Yellow Bands. Josh Lavigne photo.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>Josh on the steep second pitch of the headwall. Jason Kruk photo.</i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">At the entrance to the amazing cave. JL photo.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hyphenhyphenoPwLz9-hub9BGNC7vnREfNoGrJDwevXCwVGVjocuh5MSXOqSEgEnF6NtRK5D-p7ysn4PoA1dsADnvH11mBaGJbkz6CxKjiMwOCnFb4yRnXfYYm_W4uU8Lr5IShUTLOqA50GA/s1600/P1060040-L.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hyphenhyphenoPwLz9-hub9BGNC7vnREfNoGrJDwevXCwVGVjocuh5MSXOqSEgEnF6NtRK5D-p7ysn4PoA1dsADnvH11mBaGJbkz6CxKjiMwOCnFb4yRnXfYYm_W4uU8Lr5IShUTLOqA50GA/s400/P1060040-L.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>Josh questing up steep mixed ground. JK photo.</i></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A brief stretch of gloves-off crimping high on the headwall. JL photo.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Les gars on the summit of Mt. Alberta! JL photo.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>Starting the rappels down the Japanese Route. The north face of Twins Tower b<span style="font-size: x-small;">ehind.</span></i></span><i><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> JL photo.</span></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We traversed over the summit and along the long ridge south to what we were pretty sure were the top pitches of the Japanese Route and committed to a rappel descent. Deep snow obscured a few of the rappels, forcing us to leave behind a few pieces, but likely reduced the amount of rockfall we endured while pulling the ropes down after each rappel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The lower eastern flanks of Mt. Alberta are somewhat confusing to descend onsight. The scrambling required to navigate around the steep cliffbands was super in-obvious in the fading light, then dark. We likely could have made it back to level ground that night if we committed to more rappelling directly, but we conceded to another cold night under the soggy tarp, spooning on our single thermarest.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We were tired, satisfied, and happy back at the hut. After a brief meal and siesta, we shouldered our packs and started the long trek back to the highway at a slow, steady pace. The reality of a perfect mission was starting to set in. It's always a bit of a guessing game choosing the right route and hoping for certain conditions. Sometimes you guess right.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As far as the satisfaction of a successful climb, I was already thinking about the next adventures to come. It's nice to just be able to relax and enjoy every step along the way in the process of alpine climbing.. and life in general. It's all just a pretty neat adventure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Josh made a really great little film that really captures the spirit of our mission. I can't embed it on this blog but you can see it here:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/49288195">Mt Alberta, North Face</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/alpinesummits">Joshua Lavigne</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mt. Alberta's east face, on the hike out. JK photo.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Les gars.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My friends the Twins.</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The adventure continues. Looking down on the Chief on a flight home from our local mountains...</span></span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I'm heading to North Conway, New Hampshire this weekend to give a slideshow for an AAC event. Also on the bill is the legendary alpinist Doug Scott. I've actually seen him speak before, when I was about nine years old in Vancouver. I can't wait to see his slides again!</span>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-9555466170224282152012-08-23T13:50:00.001-07:002012-08-23T13:59:28.132-07:00I hate the Internet<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
I'm really bad at it. This is my attempt at staying semi-current in one massive blog update. Folks who want to connect should log on to my <a href="http://facebook.com/jasonkruk" target="_blank">Facebook page</a> as that seems to be the easiest method for me to stay connected with everyone... oh boy.</div>
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Okay, let's go:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cheyne Lempe self portrait w/ the Fitz Roy skyline.</i></td></tr>
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If you haven't checked out the latest Alpinist, you aught to. There is a great shot of my buddy Cheyne on the cover. HK found him fresh off the bus in El Chalten, his first time outside the United States, and brought him over to our pad. He didn't have a tent, so he took my well-used MEC tent I had stashed down there for several seasons. Soon after, he and our buddy Scott would do a rad new 50-pitch link up on the Fitz. HK and Rolo and a bunch of other dudes wrote some great pieces in the mag about stuff we all got up to this year in the range. I think Gwen Cameron (not a dude) wrote the intro to the Patagonia section, which I really liked, as I've always wanted to be a sailor... You'll have to read it...<br />
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If you can find it, I always recommend a flip through the annual Canadian Alpine Journal. It's always a good recap about some of the stuff a few canucks get up to in the mountains each season. Sean Isaac did another great job churning out the newest edition, thanks bud! Tony Touch wrote a really great feature about our traverse of Waddington last year (my film project associated with the trip isn't over, it just changed directions...). My buddy Tommy (not a canuck) wrote a great article about a fantastic new line he did on one of my favourite peaks, Mt. Louis. Also, you can read my feature on page 6, too ;)<br />
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Moving on:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>With new buddies Daniel and Aron in LA.</i></td></tr>
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The comedy television show <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tosh.0">Tosh.0</a> had been asking me for over a year to do a gag with them. This past spring I finally went down to LA to shoot something for them. I had never seen the show or heard of the host, Daniel Tosh, before. I watched a couple of episodes and saw some of his standup comedy and realized it's a pretty quality show and he is a real talent. I became a fan, for sure.<br />
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Watch our gag here: <br />
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<a href="http://watch.thecomedynetwork.ca/tosh0/season-4/tosh0-ep-419-highlights/clip727598#clip727598">http://watch.thecomedynetwork.ca/tosh0/season-4/tosh0-ep-419-highlights/clip727598#clip727598 </a><br />
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Daniel was a total brother the entire time, really nice and funny, of course. It was a real treat to have a top secret cameo appearance by Aron Ralston - I had read his book as a kid and wondered what he was actually like in person... I mean, it's easy to make fun of a dude who was so into the jam bands like the String Cheese Incident. Turns out he's just a regular climber/skier dude like the rest of us, and a real prince of a guy. Besides, even I went through a pretty dedicated Phish phase.... ;)<br />
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Here's a real climbing vid we made the other week:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/47592057" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/47592057">"THIS WAY" Episode1 - Squamish - Genius Loci</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/arcteryx">ARC'TERYX</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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The director <a href="http://www.aliascinema.com/">Alex Lavigne</a> is a real artist and the <a href="http://www.seatoskycam.com/">cable cam brothers</a> Matt Maddaloni and Dave Pearson are killing it! Hamish Fraser is an inspiration for the rest of us, a guy at the top of his sport in his prime who remains so well-adjusted, humble, and ridiculously nice. I really appreciate his contribution to the story, beyond establishing such a brilliant route in the first place! I reckon the film will drum up some traffic on a shockingly under-appreciated route... that was the goal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A 'colorado-style' ascent of the Naked Edge with Casey and Jesse. Jesse Huey photo.</i></td></tr>
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Mid-summer, my friends got married in Colorado. The stress-levels of a Squamish summer are always low, it becomes a very difficult place to leave. However, I escaped the Squamish heat to the even hotter Colorado heat for a much needed attitude adjustment near the end of July.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Running up the first Flatiron with some original 206 MOGs, Huey, Dylan Johnson, and Chad Kellog. That was a HOT lap!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Stoked on 5:00am dawn patrol in Eldo.</i></td></tr>
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Gosh, folks in Boulder-town, Colorado are so freaking hyperactive that it was a joy following them around the mountains, trails, crags, and cocktail hours for a week and a half. Huge thanks to my homie Jesse Huey for insisting that I stay and get on the program with him! I met a ton of super cool new friends and it really stoked the crowd for the remainder of the Squamish season.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>El Diamonde.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodtWhFEQMXxZmYD8aTcM4kuFCpOmjp-NQLtoDvUPqoZcnGyw4VtGWuZTpnj_cMo1l-cJfJ9cjU3kPN-myIbr_hztKQ6wVbrJQ_twGH0OXV2Ze8ECX4A58KthgIxs_1NhiQb8gHg/s1600/IMG_1329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodtWhFEQMXxZmYD8aTcM4kuFCpOmjp-NQLtoDvUPqoZcnGyw4VtGWuZTpnj_cMo1l-cJfJ9cjU3kPN-myIbr_hztKQ6wVbrJQ_twGH0OXV2Ze8ECX4A58KthgIxs_1NhiQb8gHg/s400/IMG_1329.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Climbing a really nice 12- route on the Diamond with buds Tommy and Jesse!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wl60FBg62CSONhY1odiGdfGFq_eFyJvBZEUs6w4zxMreK0YXd1uRUdfhcyYm6PxPFgFpF3D1WSFt1BktAS7eFyPcl2I0cb6v1BhK3S_NqqoUY7srhqPJqzUOnJrqcoKdm1FL-g/s1600/IMG_1332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wl60FBg62CSONhY1odiGdfGFq_eFyJvBZEUs6w4zxMreK0YXd1uRUdfhcyYm6PxPFgFpF3D1WSFt1BktAS7eFyPcl2I0cb6v1BhK3S_NqqoUY7srhqPJqzUOnJrqcoKdm1FL-g/s400/IMG_1332.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>TC Pro on Ariana - a pretty classy route I'd say.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Okay, now I'm just going to post a bunch of photos I really like:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXwGAY8F1yCyzI2byvVBqhQLcX0OroLazIpLAUqdz1y4l1NwQbfzmwekW3Vg30dWjBy5-a1iGOp4SuXh0cZceh_Ljc7Z01lSHi3BKof7PYrA9rdHBzRTo4Ud3q9UmrNB_-K9qViA/s1600/P1040487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXwGAY8F1yCyzI2byvVBqhQLcX0OroLazIpLAUqdz1y4l1NwQbfzmwekW3Vg30dWjBy5-a1iGOp4SuXh0cZceh_Ljc7Z01lSHi3BKof7PYrA9rdHBzRTo4Ud3q9UmrNB_-K9qViA/s400/P1040487.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Zack Smith really enjoying his first time in the Canadian Rockies...</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVlb1x-VFC8HKkdOUCPbpf_JXkRckkeN2ttRhXR-mdiDq4xZ10xXi0vJQCmPU7uIjpqFeXZJjRVpaGx9fbZRcvT0E6PeGoZ7QX8qE67c8fGm0kcbQp0Mm6qD86k23BpboFmxF6w/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVlb1x-VFC8HKkdOUCPbpf_JXkRckkeN2ttRhXR-mdiDq4xZ10xXi0vJQCmPU7uIjpqFeXZJjRVpaGx9fbZRcvT0E6PeGoZ7QX8qE67c8fGm0kcbQp0Mm6qD86k23BpboFmxF6w/s400/IMG_1340.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tlell, the ocean, and our local mountain here in Squamish.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9yQ5tP7q-8iGeRorR5I2F7Cghj5CbrQZ_A9q-jVUw_KY16IwToqNBcD3fVjV9JXgp8oZRmxoBbhRbdRsiOmjYEBEwEBxhKwiQYq5lJ74F_KJGvU_3mZCALBVS_dC7HQRdP3yzA/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9yQ5tP7q-8iGeRorR5I2F7Cghj5CbrQZ_A9q-jVUw_KY16IwToqNBcD3fVjV9JXgp8oZRmxoBbhRbdRsiOmjYEBEwEBxhKwiQYq5lJ74F_KJGvU_3mZCALBVS_dC7HQRdP3yzA/s400/IMG_1341.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>T Pup has just graduated to the deep end in swim class. I'm pretty proud.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmZ-0vL1fO3UpGPqaxkWH0saO0SSDGper7JeRtnOO2n-vCh-cXhVL4ZXHkAODeMflJvzXw1Phznu6v_2cVXLE8R1pSYZmK4_nHfeqweF51SrkUq3XlY-dbEOfjyJ8JgUYloEZ5A/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmZ-0vL1fO3UpGPqaxkWH0saO0SSDGper7JeRtnOO2n-vCh-cXhVL4ZXHkAODeMflJvzXw1Phznu6v_2cVXLE8R1pSYZmK4_nHfeqweF51SrkUq3XlY-dbEOfjyJ8JgUYloEZ5A/s400/IMG_1342.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Elise summits the Squaw.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GfXMt0ER79eZdUJssGMt0bv3MLbRXfbTx60nZdZsBVn2YTt15bdEGMNap12J-fk0K_um5EhIpaq9dQ3kDS-vfBeM8CrqVoMgFkdlFv5HEUeTfjOQcquFrAFVVqq-5VWoMBoOUQ/s1600/IMG_1343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GfXMt0ER79eZdUJssGMt0bv3MLbRXfbTx60nZdZsBVn2YTt15bdEGMNap12J-fk0K_um5EhIpaq9dQ3kDS-vfBeM8CrqVoMgFkdlFv5HEUeTfjOQcquFrAFVVqq-5VWoMBoOUQ/s400/IMG_1343.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Those Frenchmen Tony Touch and Paul hike to launch in southern France...</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5fF-hu7QEtHEbiX-qayFJVcl8URJ6rw7x2HI-u8sSq_zzJiPKcecbSocgSMxh0AuioShGQ4Qki4WWI3KzN20rnzA44QnPH7RCekm65YXJ4iAKaN1NhGIkn0U27xT2RK7GEHfQw/s1600/IMG_1344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5fF-hu7QEtHEbiX-qayFJVcl8URJ6rw7x2HI-u8sSq_zzJiPKcecbSocgSMxh0AuioShGQ4Qki4WWI3KzN20rnzA44QnPH7RCekm65YXJ4iAKaN1NhGIkn0U27xT2RK7GEHfQw/s400/IMG_1344.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Our local spire across the Squamish River. I want to climb this summit one day :)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IoEl8Uz4Euy5G59ju-A2YW-foMvC6sKfgs_F5vdB_-1eGxMU2HjmQ9WBqqXpvh6NyKeNZJc6N9gP9aLwmhGg3SdMGQ9aRsAG-I9O-NYIu7PXC3IgzcykWFgEyGrW1LaTGPuQvQ/s1600/IMG_1345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IoEl8Uz4Euy5G59ju-A2YW-foMvC6sKfgs_F5vdB_-1eGxMU2HjmQ9WBqqXpvh6NyKeNZJc6N9gP9aLwmhGg3SdMGQ9aRsAG-I9O-NYIu7PXC3IgzcykWFgEyGrW1LaTGPuQvQ/s400/IMG_1345.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This is pretty cute.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5x_W485mnPudtU-2MnBL2r3vQixKofDJeBN0WHA09vWKIkfVGdEunSkVu91bTSO97WIIiJd_3tAs9I2ZKXlbCOnKeHEgd89tN9vthK924pZG7wUKOGXzjdUyKA2pTWVEgl774A/s1600/IMG_1346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5x_W485mnPudtU-2MnBL2r3vQixKofDJeBN0WHA09vWKIkfVGdEunSkVu91bTSO97WIIiJd_3tAs9I2ZKXlbCOnKeHEgd89tN9vthK924pZG7wUKOGXzjdUyKA2pTWVEgl774A/s400/IMG_1346.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>That's Joel. And a lot of gnocchi.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
See you out there!</div>
JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-55258263091344012322012-05-23T17:29:00.001-07:002012-07-22T17:34:48.975-07:00What Happened in Patagonia?<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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Most
have likely read about my and Hayden Kennedy's trip to the Cerro Torre range in
southern Patagonia this past winter, so I won't go into much detail. We had
what I would describe as an audacious season, climbing all four Torres
(Standhardt, Herron, Egger, Cerro Torre) in fine fast style. Also, a new route
on another beautiful face we called <i>The
Gentleman's Club</i>. We managed to be the first to skip the hundreds
of bolts placed along Cerro Torre's southeast ridge, what they called a 'fair
means' ascent. We then proceeded to remove over a hundred bolts from the mountain,
restoring the summit of the Torre to its rightful place amongst the most
difficult spots on the planet to reach.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkAjRa9Ha6l0EUoW4Gs6yoTlgmIcZH8RyMTmSi1GHfDMB3HULoVsAp5cL37uE6VjYQLYCE65tUDqIqNvPtyuCwyJBeZgU9mYpugkQBu0Lqmn2jDymikj9jJn7P-o8Ikfpy_FAFA/s1600/fitz_blackandwhite.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkAjRa9Ha6l0EUoW4Gs6yoTlgmIcZH8RyMTmSi1GHfDMB3HULoVsAp5cL37uE6VjYQLYCE65tUDqIqNvPtyuCwyJBeZgU9mYpugkQBu0Lqmn2jDymikj9jJn7P-o8Ikfpy_FAFA/s400/fitz_blackandwhite.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The alpine Fitz tease above the Rio de las Vueltas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJVI4FiInX509XbagKF_DSDHpe5YhP7swrG5wYsJSnSktpGatDQS4uNZLa95OuH-N05wPI9nOMiIc3E_vk_YFfydr0vU-ONgKkxOH9GtzX5MK_rOr5be6lTE3Yzv7q_u-RxJCGA/s1600/fiveten_blog_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJVI4FiInX509XbagKF_DSDHpe5YhP7swrG5wYsJSnSktpGatDQS4uNZLa95OuH-N05wPI9nOMiIc3E_vk_YFfydr0vU-ONgKkxOH9GtzX5MK_rOr5be6lTE3Yzv7q_u-RxJCGA/s400/fiveten_blog_06.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hayden and I on the summit of Torre Egger.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxz0obmw_1jWrhGNJcf0BIaSJNf1ujTYEZG2nMV2yaJ0PYzxH8tBPMwG-f1wjgffszChyphenhyphenzchnODMm57Q5roq2zKo-VTVY8zObIxtdZkNxscmN7FWqK_syiu3j3-zNgKsrl22tiw/s1600/fitzacid.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxz0obmw_1jWrhGNJcf0BIaSJNf1ujTYEZG2nMV2yaJ0PYzxH8tBPMwG-f1wjgffszChyphenhyphenzchnODMm57Q5roq2zKo-VTVY8zObIxtdZkNxscmN7FWqK_syiu3j3-zNgKsrl22tiw/s320/fitzacid.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0cm; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: .1pt;">
Many
legendary figures spoke out in support of our actions, some vilified us. Both
are equally unimportant - that's their story, not ours. I've included links below to some opinions, if anyone is keen to read a bunch of people's thoughts on our actions. If not please skip ahead to a couple photos from climbing in Patagonia with Hayden Kennedy, and a few of what I've been up to recently:</div>
<br />
<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/petition-in-favor" target="_blank">An Impossible Mountain</a> by Rolando Garibotti</div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/02/a-word-.html" target="_blank">A Word</a> from Yvon Chouinard</div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://bit.ly/z0fil1" target="_blank">A Letter from Douglas Tompkins</a><br />
<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.pioletsdor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=217:cerro-torre-lavis-darnaud-petit&catid=56:actu-montagne&Itemid=1&lang=en">It’s tough being ahead of your time</a> by Arnaud Petit</span></b></div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://bit.ly/wMJCe2" target="_blank">Taliban on Cerro Torre</a> by Stefano Lovison </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://bit.ly/zaug6O" target="_blank"> Cerro Torre</a> by Mario Conti </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/02/cerro-torre-deviations-from-reason.html" target="_blank">Deviations from Reason</a> by Kelly Cordes </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2012/02/removal-of-cesare-maestris-bolt-ladders.html" target="_blank">The Removal of Maestri's Bolt Ladders</a> by Colin Haley </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://ngadventure.typepad.com/blog/2012/01/patagonias-cerro-torre-climbing-controversy-maestri-unbolted.html" target="_blank"> Cerro Torre Gets The Chop</a> from National Geographic Adventure </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://bit.ly/A7E2PY" target="_blank"> A Letter from Sebastián De La Cruz </a> </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/readers-blog-the-beauty-and-the-choppers" target="_blank">The Beauty, the Tribe and the Choppers</a> by Lorenzo Castaldi </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1725375&tn=720" target="_blank">Leo Dickinson's Thoughts On SuperTopo</a> </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.mountainsandwater.com/2012/02/cerro-torre-and-mountain-as-work-of-art.html" target="_blank"> Cerro Torre</a> by Peter Beal </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement" target="_blank"> Kennedy and Kruk Release Statement</a> <i>Alpinist.com</i> </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-compressor-kennedy-kruk-flash" target="_blank"> Compressor Chopped</a> <i>Alpinist.com</i> </div>
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-update-compressor" target="_blank"> Lama Frees Compressor</a> <i>Alpinist.com</i></div>
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<a href="http://enormocast.com/episode-6-hayden-kennedy-alpine-taliban-or-patagonian-custodian-part-1/" target="_blank"> Hayden Kennedy Interview/Podcast</a> Enormocast<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_is2GX9-veMiXjrYGOEtbsdYsgIwiAd1JYTdEu3lMDRIFvbvkC-rYhZSXP4WY2yi8m-Whm1pj6eSdvctckK4AEXKUHOgt2y8p3WXBL0ARPGguvMHv5MADvnNlZlfKxYoXIuDyig/s1600/hk_chim_send.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_is2GX9-veMiXjrYGOEtbsdYsgIwiAd1JYTdEu3lMDRIFvbvkC-rYhZSXP4WY2yi8m-Whm1pj6eSdvctckK4AEXKUHOgt2y8p3WXBL0ARPGguvMHv5MADvnNlZlfKxYoXIuDyig/s400/hk_chim_send.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HK in the Exocet ice chimney.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguCx3dKtyJC8Bcztfuqb_vqH8g21R7r2Xp723yIJd5279CakvOKBcj6YCWQQZP_RskdD1F1dJ4jsrKnxKC-wAWrt5zn9L0iN17DtydOzmMRbxBkL01L9MT48ZM1FN_lsewkN54ag/s1600/hk_sending_tube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguCx3dKtyJC8Bcztfuqb_vqH8g21R7r2Xp723yIJd5279CakvOKBcj6YCWQQZP_RskdD1F1dJ4jsrKnxKC-wAWrt5zn9L0iN17DtydOzmMRbxBkL01L9MT48ZM1FN_lsewkN54ag/s400/hk_sending_tube.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HK follows a rad ice tunnel on Punta Herron.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58Ob0aOZLFwWZSbzCe9XJwlxYjZrVE1HadX8pH6Up3xFR9K4JQew4_-V4Oe_KgHh8JYo-e6tNGLoMswL7YszccU476iuV41gJ-H9RwrfYgmjS9O2-OenZWa_Wrm1fZv2jB0qp-g/s1600/Patagonia_2012_jk_25.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58Ob0aOZLFwWZSbzCe9XJwlxYjZrVE1HadX8pH6Up3xFR9K4JQew4_-V4Oe_KgHh8JYo-e6tNGLoMswL7YszccU476iuV41gJ-H9RwrfYgmjS9O2-OenZWa_Wrm1fZv2jB0qp-g/s400/Patagonia_2012_jk_25.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HK styles the Cerro Torre headwall.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32RTI4suwVRJPUJ5lG4LHM2UQS-eog-ApV8LhjQzleRp06igpdr5X2SJuw42WoYF7E3VJuaKK6snACZhwqAiEknye72VV-dIq2_U1mwPEbhIIwQpF1F0-nef57dtUj32DKoWkwg/s1600/cerro_torre_submission_jk_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32RTI4suwVRJPUJ5lG4LHM2UQS-eog-ApV8LhjQzleRp06igpdr5X2SJuw42WoYF7E3VJuaKK6snACZhwqAiEknye72VV-dIq2_U1mwPEbhIIwQpF1F0-nef57dtUj32DKoWkwg/s400/cerro_torre_submission_jk_10.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Torres</td></tr>
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It
was great to be back home in Squamish in early spring. I did some awesome steep
skiing in the coast range and some huge days of powder slaying with some key
motivated brothers. My fitness was nearing an all time high. Almost every day I
would charge up the backside of the Squamish Chief with a heavily loaded
paraglider bag. Perfect training for alpinism - and I could fly off and land
some 200' from my house.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAfVd3w8qPel4kTHlAPzWClBZpSj8iWJc5q3Iq_kVP1wzFrmpnofiWjiLRGs0S8d_lK8j6TRV9tax-J-hOxwnjxeketKlSTFyiAW3982F-gH4N9-vm1O6mHmdXlWaWZZ21nlHGg/s1600/fiveten_blog_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAfVd3w8qPel4kTHlAPzWClBZpSj8iWJc5q3Iq_kVP1wzFrmpnofiWjiLRGs0S8d_lK8j6TRV9tax-J-hOxwnjxeketKlSTFyiAW3982F-gH4N9-vm1O6mHmdXlWaWZZ21nlHGg/s400/fiveten_blog_04.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scoping out the Prow and Pan Walls on my glider. I called up fellow Squamish pilot Paul McSorley just before I launched and he took these shots from his front deck.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJWXmRetsp3zF5r07B46UzeQk6B5jw0DVNtlxRLoWm3U1HlcwS-CNksAS0y3Bz3yV7SXr9ZgJq3nNz_Whk-Dri_3HKSQZ_kP5FVF2GbI7IENy6046Kt1YgK9N787tilVdjXqKmQ/s1600/chief_flight_mcphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJWXmRetsp3zF5r07B46UzeQk6B5jw0DVNtlxRLoWm3U1HlcwS-CNksAS0y3Bz3yV7SXr9ZgJq3nNz_Whk-Dri_3HKSQZ_kP5FVF2GbI7IENy6046Kt1YgK9N787tilVdjXqKmQ/s400/chief_flight_mcphoto.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Squamish in winter, it stops raining and the winds pick up a little pretty much every day. If you time it right you can fly almost every day. Paul McSorley photo. </td></tr>
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The
bad news came that my expedition to Pakistan fell threw. I was bummed. To cheer
up I boarded a plane for France a couple days later with alpine climbing gear,
skis, and a paraglider. I was planning on a mountain holiday of north faces,
steep skiing, and lots of flying in the Chamonix area. The weather would not
cooperate, forcing us pretty soon to the south of France for sunny sport
climbing and world class flying in the historic Gorges du Verdon. Not a bad
compromise!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkZwMkKVqKeJjCLjpe3wHUqVfrvdTQD4KDtPTjmiF6onuqUnK4oz4q7Z_Rvl1RxeO7XGigsQ2u7HKuM1fledntH1RRw_p50qp-Kzp14jswuKEsgZpFINJFhk0xYzYc3t9GRU2vw/s1600/five_ten_blog_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkZwMkKVqKeJjCLjpe3wHUqVfrvdTQD4KDtPTjmiF6onuqUnK4oz4q7Z_Rvl1RxeO7XGigsQ2u7HKuM1fledntH1RRw_p50qp-Kzp14jswuKEsgZpFINJFhk0xYzYc3t9GRU2vw/s400/five_ten_blog_01.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony grimping high above the lake... rocking the beret hard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Crvkll2G-VRYjXNtiuGOkL00UQOfHMCTyqL1dET5wgNK7sACHGTpiFA8u0IRbTF0z95SmkcRolHZgt3YPLQ61KEzCyLpbkfUiC7nn9iwTG-CtEBzvzEF7ujqEbJTXIlPv_fSQg/s1600/fiveten_blog_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Crvkll2G-VRYjXNtiuGOkL00UQOfHMCTyqL1dET5wgNK7sACHGTpiFA8u0IRbTF0z95SmkcRolHZgt3YPLQ61KEzCyLpbkfUiC7nn9iwTG-CtEBzvzEF7ujqEbJTXIlPv_fSQg/s400/fiveten_blog_02.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and Touch flying above the town of Moustier St. Marie. Paul McSorley Photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_ca41Zs7Z8cHufdKBuNwEn_QvPFA7v9TvWmNZdqlPcCb_6YouxZlmqyJMxxYmusOR8FvW42nAVk8eGuLPohUN04_0iRJd6GIeIoOpG4xeBbQeeSRFkzG77L9WeDfx9Pa_KAQkA/s1600/fiveten_blog_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_ca41Zs7Z8cHufdKBuNwEn_QvPFA7v9TvWmNZdqlPcCb_6YouxZlmqyJMxxYmusOR8FvW42nAVk8eGuLPohUN04_0iRJd6GIeIoOpG4xeBbQeeSRFkzG77L9WeDfx9Pa_KAQkA/s400/fiveten_blog_03.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touch on a classic Verdon pitch of 6c.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3lo0o-MoY6ICsL6MzCRl510g7yd3363KVyK3svJT4lYgwJJRlBsJC9kSSr9IEKj3363pZsjIx8PVsGkCqjBfYiTct4VFgi55br5bgvsBZ-xXhsPV1N8ow-9H_eCL_nnX7jbAceQ/s1600/franceblog10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3lo0o-MoY6ICsL6MzCRl510g7yd3363KVyK3svJT4lYgwJJRlBsJC9kSSr9IEKj3363pZsjIx8PVsGkCqjBfYiTct4VFgi55br5bgvsBZ-xXhsPV1N8ow-9H_eCL_nnX7jbAceQ/s400/franceblog10.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYzuzMqaeuHCQnwRgksMaRkm79IV1PmwsC36qHIflmucR1paz3WizsAdfK84k1Mc5y5Ebh29WggjGT4AtDIOEsy63tj_HdCQ3gX8s3xOSGRngWn9zp3kBfkx_HMkWYeyOciYM7Fw/s1600/franceblog9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYzuzMqaeuHCQnwRgksMaRkm79IV1PmwsC36qHIflmucR1paz3WizsAdfK84k1Mc5y5Ebh29WggjGT4AtDIOEsy63tj_HdCQ3gX8s3xOSGRngWn9zp3kBfkx_HMkWYeyOciYM7Fw/s400/franceblog9.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwTEalza8GjV6KYX0pkEQI38jMpXExXx8erSV0bPi65SSSI1V0jhdp7X_7luLfM_2mIFIfCJIJz6QoHgyjZZT-lFyG4hQPYIrO1EufmXXRSA5YKR9N7TcnXbJa_M-B8UgBdU4BQ/s1600/franceblog13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwTEalza8GjV6KYX0pkEQI38jMpXExXx8erSV0bPi65SSSI1V0jhdp7X_7luLfM_2mIFIfCJIJz6QoHgyjZZT-lFyG4hQPYIrO1EufmXXRSA5YKR9N7TcnXbJa_M-B8UgBdU4BQ/s400/franceblog13.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking to launch. Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqcFzDhfOAmSCVYkwwH4Dffod_dE8Z_Vv9lPC-Wg_vj3glZqj2UYFlbmEhZrf9nz6alaQ25s8Z-ktIjJpqG7FGEOw03xjN3CxvNPHRdzqdEvAcZd4T6taTNQ7ljMWIIpnR454n5Q/s400/franceblog16.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But launching before a coffee would be so sauvage... Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High wind launch in Verdon. Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PxeeUsyACu1RP6Jn5sBNPiUanv1AHr1Bfb-SxyWuJ55T3BouC7zl0oa5yl2su9ivNdVyEDzyTD68x4K5D0ZDyVDWuyh9stw4RNuVnAmGWRiC19MxcjOpjK7x-xgG8oRl7f-L4Q/s1600/franceblog15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PxeeUsyACu1RP6Jn5sBNPiUanv1AHr1Bfb-SxyWuJ55T3BouC7zl0oa5yl2su9ivNdVyEDzyTD68x4K5D0ZDyVDWuyh9stw4RNuVnAmGWRiC19MxcjOpjK7x-xgG8oRl7f-L4Q/s400/franceblog15.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normally I would have been confused as to were to go, but luckily I had this arrow to show the way. Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlmJfYdKArAlVQsLn_RRNxuW0Z4RB2aeGSVT4Fag5MS7T0KOrJbLQ8P0aOU1zJXQaTd4-R3mF16om6ZmAEm0jeOz468c5rCahGoSEqpr1-4steg2RzpadCgpCbK-WS43U6dbbEw/s1600/franceblog17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlmJfYdKArAlVQsLn_RRNxuW0Z4RB2aeGSVT4Fag5MS7T0KOrJbLQ8P0aOU1zJXQaTd4-R3mF16om6ZmAEm0jeOz468c5rCahGoSEqpr1-4steg2RzpadCgpCbK-WS43U6dbbEw/s400/franceblog17.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cocktail hour with Pennings and Jimmy on the rim of the gorge! Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIThhpkj8RlVKbWd0Js1al3zwXpd1mOU_AQF9qCth8n0T-nyWQztukfx8TiCkhYxNva4PzOS3q2lGIRpCUZxDt7HBRMxqiV1m3JJRD1yWbUgdTSKi8wKOLXdYahTAct4JSBETG2Q/s1600/franceblog18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIThhpkj8RlVKbWd0Js1al3zwXpd1mOU_AQF9qCth8n0T-nyWQztukfx8TiCkhYxNva4PzOS3q2lGIRpCUZxDt7HBRMxqiV1m3JJRD1yWbUgdTSKi8wKOLXdYahTAct4JSBETG2Q/s400/franceblog18.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puffy clouds or excessive chalking? Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0uDD0xO6MB5x_EjxHkQP1zswqr0TLt9cAfzJiHimW49xBv-CZIa2Go7CtKBoHwGm5gd6zLpCENJLx6jrX3YB_hHSbpoCMm5tVsqi0gqTSE8FQFQpuw8dDSvtX0Xg9_c1aTaezQ/s1600/franceblog19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0uDD0xO6MB5x_EjxHkQP1zswqr0TLt9cAfzJiHimW49xBv-CZIa2Go7CtKBoHwGm5gd6zLpCENJLx6jrX3YB_hHSbpoCMm5tVsqi0gqTSE8FQFQpuw8dDSvtX0Xg9_c1aTaezQ/s400/franceblog19.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKa-Sp4BgjWGcvARH6iVi_-uHE87soKeVxQRnsJ0MOY_0ipWF_lcF1d_5UMqHVCMq7YM2MN9STMTWgH3HqaiPZk_CetCHtexYe-jv9VkHAyfkNO4Ombv26js2L8nKCoj7qFVNbw/s1600/franceblog20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKa-Sp4BgjWGcvARH6iVi_-uHE87soKeVxQRnsJ0MOY_0ipWF_lcF1d_5UMqHVCMq7YM2MN9STMTWgH3HqaiPZk_CetCHtexYe-jv9VkHAyfkNO4Ombv26js2L8nKCoj7qFVNbw/s400/franceblog20.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPajvV7clLzj2-_5C9JI81gX5jmTOF6DOinVpUyDsbdUZVOqsnkRMoSSTXyCgwyvAozmk4xKpJbmdYPHra_jZIvRPE1ZQVYYgAQMsrAMHNwhKFBkbbY4CyEDU6xEPQMfMccERzCg/s1600/franceblog22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPajvV7clLzj2-_5C9JI81gX5jmTOF6DOinVpUyDsbdUZVOqsnkRMoSSTXyCgwyvAozmk4xKpJbmdYPHra_jZIvRPE1ZQVYYgAQMsrAMHNwhKFBkbbY4CyEDU6xEPQMfMccERzCg/s400/franceblog22.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1S6TxaGpw3XnNIKUjDmTz7EClmEod37wbvr6JD0h5JEAqcySUowEcmcTglIcXoj-1TU6t-VWUqcJ-G_stQlyoydj9a0OmKuZJ80PL3SsXFhkI_c_mIdXe9XYHUykq6N_KOworhw/s1600/franceblogbros.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1S6TxaGpw3XnNIKUjDmTz7EClmEod37wbvr6JD0h5JEAqcySUowEcmcTglIcXoj-1TU6t-VWUqcJ-G_stQlyoydj9a0OmKuZJ80PL3SsXFhkI_c_mIdXe9XYHUykq6N_KOworhw/s400/franceblogbros.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm not sure if Paul ruined this photo or made it way better...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMFWSHlbx5feeb3sSVuqEL9minWUFVOkqNtko-kDvDkDgopbL-f20t0qQ_oNoDFSXrmRrhddy8sWK2xWssqhJUKDiSCs1qqlpiVpvBG4i9DkjSorqwrTcnAGoonKtKaK24r0vGg/s1600/franceblogjesus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguMFWSHlbx5feeb3sSVuqEL9minWUFVOkqNtko-kDvDkDgopbL-f20t0qQ_oNoDFSXrmRrhddy8sWK2xWssqhJUKDiSCs1qqlpiVpvBG4i9DkjSorqwrTcnAGoonKtKaK24r0vGg/s400/franceblogjesus.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony, flying like Jesus. Paul McSorley photos.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy358Nu3Fgbex3NpSMcVz_hXaun8K2Pde7lPNwGLkXezUhJ9jEoE1cUZLsii-_p5ZcgXjDP5JDHiOOJ1f2PrA7HRBu4cSsUemc-0TxVY3Rf6iFKZNvurh6-HADLeRNePYbd6XX1A/s1600/francephoto3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy358Nu3Fgbex3NpSMcVz_hXaun8K2Pde7lPNwGLkXezUhJ9jEoE1cUZLsii-_p5ZcgXjDP5JDHiOOJ1f2PrA7HRBu4cSsUemc-0TxVY3Rf6iFKZNvurh6-HADLeRNePYbd6XX1A/s400/francephoto3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annecy, Tony's village. Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNowwk_kzxQyJLtlVdYt2nra91Xf4AAW_VnzqmdYAggiPRI5Ql9TggePaXhKKnaivnElsrkySTJ8_5jtLSpsf3ynrPf2LTDmG4pUEESsJJ10BW2Jjz_dg12hCUtF7GYQ6nZsH9w/s1600/newblogfrance1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNowwk_kzxQyJLtlVdYt2nra91Xf4AAW_VnzqmdYAggiPRI5Ql9TggePaXhKKnaivnElsrkySTJ8_5jtLSpsf3ynrPf2LTDmG4pUEESsJJ10BW2Jjz_dg12hCUtF7GYQ6nZsH9w/s400/newblogfrance1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oblig Cham cocktail hour. Paul McSorley photo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjibmixbNjJgafTb3_ZcIhyxNFjleeINGBvQ2WD2qHhdS65PwzbDS-OnyojcytpPufn1Ooq3z22r2jQLbx8dhhIuJCDNDwE2QQSovcj_4rlWe0GuDy7x01x8q9rtQNJly8-NZSaVQ/s1600/penhouuse-launch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjibmixbNjJgafTb3_ZcIhyxNFjleeINGBvQ2WD2qHhdS65PwzbDS-OnyojcytpPufn1Ooq3z22r2jQLbx8dhhIuJCDNDwE2QQSovcj_4rlWe0GuDy7x01x8q9rtQNJly8-NZSaVQ/s400/penhouuse-launch.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local cliff launch with Austin and Pablo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIR4I7HcDrhFt87T5b_ud2Cm-p89-5nyG0lIL0UMhITH9JVqZBgHYTUsOs7f02t1boXRJGhHrjX7bLLMFdYT1uyrfswsNmFLkRubQ8Ws9vQZXYizTd0K778lX-QXyADEiwDB56g/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIR4I7HcDrhFt87T5b_ud2Cm-p89-5nyG0lIL0UMhITH9JVqZBgHYTUsOs7f02t1boXRJGhHrjX7bLLMFdYT1uyrfswsNmFLkRubQ8Ws9vQZXYizTd0K778lX-QXyADEiwDB56g/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HK and Troutman. On Acid.</td></tr>
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</div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-35477752203518937782011-12-28T12:40:00.000-08:002011-12-28T12:51:16.260-08:00Honorable mention... Smokes, Let's Go!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVbggjaKMbjLtE-1EgDjufEIJCIaem-v_66yEhyphenhyphenKCDcs3Y9-petzNMAbg_eAf1f8yFRhLzHGgQQiFGrgaqYa5K_nMkRsfQ4eaitPSJa-So6mG7j7-GHPN5jSsoDRlHwj3VNzdBg/s1600/Tony_openbivy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVbggjaKMbjLtE-1EgDjufEIJCIaem-v_66yEhyphenhyphenKCDcs3Y9-petzNMAbg_eAf1f8yFRhLzHGgQQiFGrgaqYa5K_nMkRsfQ4eaitPSJa-So6mG7j7-GHPN5jSsoDRlHwj3VNzdBg/s400/Tony_openbivy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony Touch open bivies on Mt. Waddington</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I've been trying pretty hard at alpine climbing these past few years, and have been dealt some rough cards... It's just how this games goes and I wouldn't have it any other way. It's nice to get a little bit of recognition from time to time though, simply to stoke the fire for future attempts.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The North Twin is personal. I put everything into trying to climb it... twice now! I will be back ASAP for another go because I really, really want to climb on it again. I was really surprised and quite flattered when the North American climbing media picked up on my attempts and decided that they were worthy of a side note. Charitable, maybe, I'll take it. Those tries meant a lot.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dougald McDonald wrote this very kind article for climbing.com - you can read it here:</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/basecamp_blog/two_attempts_on_twins_tower/">http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/basecamp_blog/two_attempts_on_twins_tower/</a></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">More recently Rock & Ice magazine gave HK and I honorable mention for top ascents of 2011 here:</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://rockandice.com/component/content/article/1732-top-10-ascents-of-2011?showall=1">http://rockandice.com/component/content/article/1732-top-10-ascents-of-2011?showall=1</a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IdUDsRGfGnj-573516yMGwxkq83sm1cSzo0TPsNOsnXXe9M9cZJzo_bomJvmy4XgwOXERmIEvqrmfj4oOLkJbyJYu8z54Hi3OjxANW9WFkA_9FP6bWvlqBbaXZXqaTwxHRbbdQ/s1600/atkinson_pablo_tpine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IdUDsRGfGnj-573516yMGwxkq83sm1cSzo0TPsNOsnXXe9M9cZJzo_bomJvmy4XgwOXERmIEvqrmfj4oOLkJbyJYu8z54Hi3OjxANW9WFkA_9FP6bWvlqBbaXZXqaTwxHRbbdQ/s400/atkinson_pablo_tpine.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris and Pablo in our local Squamish 'pine the Tantalus Range.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I forgot to post the second Smokes, Let's Go! Radio along with my Mexi fly update</span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">. I think it is pretty fun, so I'll post it now. A tad ADD, but we'll chalk that up to the bottle of mezcal drunk during it's creation. Besides, variety is good and playing out songs is lame...</span><br />
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<object height="81" width="100%"> <param name="movie" value="https://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F28661004"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed allowscriptaccess="always" height="81" src="https://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F28661004" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="100%"></embed> </object> <span><a href="http://soundcloud.com/jasonkruk/smokes-lets-go-radio-2-valle">Smokes, Let's Go! Radio #2 - Valle de Bravo</a> by <a href="http://soundcloud.com/jasonkruk">jasonkruk</a></span>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-52555799531058049252011-12-21T15:10:00.000-08:002011-12-21T15:25:34.645-08:00¡Viva México!<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I have a few minutes to update the blog from El Chalten, Patagonia. I'm here climbing with Hayden Kennedy. We are stoked.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I just spent a month in the world-class paragliding venue of Valle de Bravo, Mexico, learning how to fly my paraglider. This is something I took up this past September with great interest. I am now a full-blown flying addict, I have seen the light. Unlike BASE jumping, which requires ideal conditions and STEEP terrain, paragliding is very conducive to mountain travel. Modern gear is way light, and you can take off in higher winds and fly from point A to point B, how rad is that? </div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Valle is a charming Mexican village with steep cobbled streets and very friendly locals, and the flying is on almost every day of the year. There I met up with my good friend, and world-class pilot <a href="http://www.cayooshexpeditions.ca/">Jim Orava</a>, and a crew of other monkies and flew for hours every day. I progressed quickly, and was eventually piecing together amazing cross-country flights that lasted for several hours.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The highlight for me was eventually flying all the way back to town from the launch site. A task not unlike climbing Squamish's <i>Grand Wall </i>for the first time - except I had a grin way bigger than the first time I climbed the Grand Wall. It lasted for days...</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Valle is near some truly world class limestone sport climbing, so I could not resist visiting the mind-blowing Chonta cave near Taxco. Emailing for beta, my Swiss amiga Nina told me I wasn't strong enough to climb there! Ha! Turns out you don't need to be so strong when you are holding on to tufas bigger than yourself!<br />
This part of the world is true paradise, I know it won't be long before I build a sweet mexi villa to retire to for a few month each year...<br />
Some mexi snaps:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLjMxTOZov09hvJ8cloJbAMmDWFqPSmVbZin6YYP78WHRXO8M6-yswugfH8mMlamYWHW91XNYZyBy2xdsHf7szyaMdpJTJhpHuO-u0lEk8AUeoHRhPogI9xFq6Dumzsn4erC4pxA/s1600/IMG_1080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLjMxTOZov09hvJ8cloJbAMmDWFqPSmVbZin6YYP78WHRXO8M6-yswugfH8mMlamYWHW91XNYZyBy2xdsHf7szyaMdpJTJhpHuO-u0lEk8AUeoHRhPogI9xFq6Dumzsn4erC4pxA/s400/IMG_1080.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Life is never too stressful. The volcanic rock of the Pe<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">ñon behind</span>. Pablo and I took one afternoon off flying and summitted the torre.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0PKAVnmnZtxBEJ_lQ1DYUAR_i-6GNkAsAiwuFKv2BG78vDShMU1SrpSSpaMJuLwTah1Doh3da8f5pLSHStZpLz8i6jObAd1-lV_1GbIrEa6tAJndFfBfumsr5WLVA2ic5be70w/s1600/IMG_1087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho0PKAVnmnZtxBEJ_lQ1DYUAR_i-6GNkAsAiwuFKv2BG78vDShMU1SrpSSpaMJuLwTah1Doh3da8f5pLSHStZpLz8i6jObAd1-lV_1GbIrEa6tAJndFfBfumsr5WLVA2ic5be70w/s400/IMG_1087.JPG" width="299" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My morning routine included buying a liter of juice. Fresh squeezed, whatever fruit and veg combo you can dream up...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGvVXf_L8xXhDnwgHnmwNBx7M28woe3ct0uVeQC29Rc3KpTGPpDs1HoFIIwdGh22JG1__UvWa8U7_ypwS-MDwmery5S5wF1_AxDVmw0zzjgqTZK6WUTp6P122eu239SiW7iAV3sg/s1600/GOPR5710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGvVXf_L8xXhDnwgHnmwNBx7M28woe3ct0uVeQC29Rc3KpTGPpDs1HoFIIwdGh22JG1__UvWa8U7_ypwS-MDwmery5S5wF1_AxDVmw0zzjgqTZK6WUTp6P122eu239SiW7iAV3sg/s400/GOPR5710.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying off El <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pe<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">ñon launch.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzi2RSt8H_SkUu-sAqb4lAEca1TSklYLQrTz0Jwz6tAdO_62XlLMHtS6GuugELa-sA-H70N32JmaEttZVOQ4D-yYG1dGygmWJgAK7uwJEqaVKMQwLQvYr_Ii0eWOqixjKPiBDdbA/s1600/GOPR5676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzi2RSt8H_SkUu-sAqb4lAEca1TSklYLQrTz0Jwz6tAdO_62XlLMHtS6GuugELa-sA-H70N32JmaEttZVOQ4D-yYG1dGygmWJgAK7uwJEqaVKMQwLQvYr_Ii0eWOqixjKPiBDdbA/s400/GOPR5676.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting cloud-sucked while on tadem with El Jimador. Going cross-country flying with Jimmy was a perfect way to learn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekewt978fWlBM_BlJv5oSTnnY3kQbvexxm5In6hsoojXEEoD1pwSX8nozxmzgnqqe3D-uL9EDFP2FSy2yHIVwvTn19K_vhK9Cs7f7lEw14h-M5l8n6kUhZ322tIFdbOaN5dQ1Eg/s1600/GOPR6059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekewt978fWlBM_BlJv5oSTnnY3kQbvexxm5In6hsoojXEEoD1pwSX8nozxmzgnqqe3D-uL9EDFP2FSy2yHIVwvTn19K_vhK9Cs7f7lEw14h-M5l8n6kUhZ322tIFdbOaN5dQ1Eg/s400/GOPR6059.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So stoked on flying it home to Valle from the <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pe<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">ñon</span></span> launch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWg2oZTszW2iCFva_yyH_YzzCMKC0NZ2dY1u5pyXISFutmoE6sFWEcR0AqfIPNNyUconY7ovh7503QqGeRJj40bs25PV9kdTh564FOeYZNaU7lz_ZChj50EDkJeNCnbTT5oW8CQ/s1600/GOPR6068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWg2oZTszW2iCFva_yyH_YzzCMKC0NZ2dY1u5pyXISFutmoE6sFWEcR0AqfIPNNyUconY7ovh7503QqGeRJj40bs25PV9kdTh564FOeYZNaU7lz_ZChj50EDkJeNCnbTT5oW8CQ/s400/GOPR6068.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Coming in high over town.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbXSg9bATI0dX45oJZdLdCaNPG2C6-1rnv4SjG518esLHyCUNcfU_dqxNI5y5kXGrWB1Bwod8QD7DW7tj9lzZS1RLlqtmiY97JESyWeDlb5iT1ptdCduLMarFYz82TLFAwu7WkA/s1600/IMG_1114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbXSg9bATI0dX45oJZdLdCaNPG2C6-1rnv4SjG518esLHyCUNcfU_dqxNI5y5kXGrWB1Bwod8QD7DW7tj9lzZS1RLlqtmiY97JESyWeDlb5iT1ptdCduLMarFYz82TLFAwu7WkA/s400/IMG_1114.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We were invited by the Mexican government to visit the nearby town of <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tejuphichu to fly off a brand new site. They threw a town-wide party and invited us on stage for some reason... The whole tour was set up by our friend Solomon.</span> They really hooked us up!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQs-rlbCqAEvjslvVO9PSvIuZ1J7b1e8V-sM338iUFcPK431M-F_FvKj7UtRMKRLIvI7f7xKaMrR5u3RhiNMDcPatBLc9eulGH08jxcGWI6xnr1tUkBFj6Kle-CZmnj_pcDxgSQ/s1600/IMG_1091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQs-rlbCqAEvjslvVO9PSvIuZ1J7b1e8V-sM338iUFcPK431M-F_FvKj7UtRMKRLIvI7f7xKaMrR5u3RhiNMDcPatBLc9eulGH08jxcGWI6xnr1tUkBFj6Kle-CZmnj_pcDxgSQ/s400/IMG_1091.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The town mayor congratulating us....</span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh27FS8FQcwDNmrINFot-ZspTc5_Bf2jNnwSgz3Pbj7nOUJaYMV8cyGXynL0Bg8T1WDkjemmZJJdIidIRbYxmmhw8FoO-HCTYGXL8gazs_d60a__nGMG5vZYv-xx8WY4kNz2zPgw/s1600/IMG_1095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh27FS8FQcwDNmrINFot-ZspTc5_Bf2jNnwSgz3Pbj7nOUJaYMV8cyGXynL0Bg8T1WDkjemmZJJdIidIRbYxmmhw8FoO-HCTYGXL8gazs_d60a__nGMG5vZYv-xx8WY4kNz2zPgw/s320/IMG_1095.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mezcal. Como no?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPRHf9WBoH9PPuL42kpeFNkWJV9UxSnFFwMud0d5OgIAb0s3S6zQKpgh7DjgRAioBm2rrf8VeSRULGH2q8r6ErBk9YyvU_BeZJG1s8yzaJkHjjOgEQhyPSJqBV7ojNf0GIw27QQ/s1600/IMG_1096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXPRHf9WBoH9PPuL42kpeFNkWJV9UxSnFFwMud0d5OgIAb0s3S6zQKpgh7DjgRAioBm2rrf8VeSRULGH2q8r6ErBk9YyvU_BeZJG1s8yzaJkHjjOgEQhyPSJqBV7ojNf0GIw27QQ/s320/IMG_1096.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While on a cross-country bid, I stuffed it one day in the small town of San Pedro, necessitating one of the longer taxi rides back to town. Here I caught a view of the interesting colors of this bird and the wall. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBhfh-KHxQdnm6ecEjirLyF98tAqLSKPfNISNX6cAI11kREao__JmHSCy21PGsHegcc-J0xsyAk9PzaYI9nNlklYigshyphenhyphen4guc8TreBMtJ999-kILb8AUL-cdFsNSWhi_rXl3sSw/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBhfh-KHxQdnm6ecEjirLyF98tAqLSKPfNISNX6cAI11kREao__JmHSCy21PGsHegcc-J0xsyAk9PzaYI9nNlklYigshyphenhyphen4guc8TreBMtJ999-kILb8AUL-cdFsNSWhi_rXl3sSw/s400/IMG_1097.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo orders uno round mas para todo.<span class="contenidos"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9uyjYUzvo7c6iWOCvbKusQoWgob5STIB4pCTgY5eDm6tjL90qMpYyNEAE_EN-qiJhI9FDppFif08WqEeywAv_uTU3jmH8nJwGcggGek0oDzKQgcOpVA7z6TJFndsj-e9m3hUHw/s1600/IMG_1103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9uyjYUzvo7c6iWOCvbKusQoWgob5STIB4pCTgY5eDm6tjL90qMpYyNEAE_EN-qiJhI9FDppFif08WqEeywAv_uTU3jmH8nJwGcggGek0oDzKQgcOpVA7z6TJFndsj-e9m3hUHw/s400/IMG_1103.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We couldn't miss out on the nearby Chonta Cave and the village of Taxco, the puebla de plata.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf7-OsIv8l11OKz14btOJgmOmb53MJe5J1Zcz4svTXaxy7X0VvxzJmqz1nnv2hCR3u0ODsmcaUqyzFQYb1KV1wgOcih3CrdN5UoZJTCTq3OsO_iIp7E9ivjC7GIGgJdsf1tUTlfg/s1600/IMG_1107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf7-OsIv8l11OKz14btOJgmOmb53MJe5J1Zcz4svTXaxy7X0VvxzJmqz1nnv2hCR3u0ODsmcaUqyzFQYb1KV1wgOcih3CrdN5UoZJTCTq3OsO_iIp7E9ivjC7GIGgJdsf1tUTlfg/s400/IMG_1107.JPG" width="299" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Jimador himself as asador.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgid_8BHWi1yiQ0KAZzmwo4UNQiNadewJ2pwHVWne4FWDUwkCJPmgvzYbcgYoIqY0YsDTYwCRXNZkkKt75xNAsUipIcLXWGk6XVvX6GwmKiUWNvMLIWXqaeIwy-kO74XkNcCUzf1Q/s1600/IMG_1112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgid_8BHWi1yiQ0KAZzmwo4UNQiNadewJ2pwHVWne4FWDUwkCJPmgvzYbcgYoIqY0YsDTYwCRXNZkkKt75xNAsUipIcLXWGk6XVvX6GwmKiUWNvMLIWXqaeIwy-kO74XkNcCUzf1Q/s400/IMG_1112.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">La Chonta!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAVys_s9gKvksLNswEfqp3HVKX7ektPgH9ohuIoUHX1ObKqluyRr4FZdJowQQVxCJZFpoYmGstkb-aSj4jgpLSY2bOldm9t5L2r8hEYaPAAm7P7d1lPGUlLH-q89ATapB4mz-jzg/s1600/cavecrotch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAVys_s9gKvksLNswEfqp3HVKX7ektPgH9ohuIoUHX1ObKqluyRr4FZdJowQQVxCJZFpoYmGstkb-aSj4jgpLSY2bOldm9t5L2r8hEYaPAAm7P7d1lPGUlLH-q89ATapB4mz-jzg/s400/cavecrotch.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch one of seven pitch <i>Mala Fama</i>. This cave is out of control.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD__qiK0KEznGYwYB02xcZfPvuL7aM3hHeklrG8-4LVG3_-bor7-Awb1MPJeg9fSk1Vcou_dqVAZd60O62o27w1JxuPZAHqbu5ePtTFrXwqqlhkQviRhHqkiUi32VMukaoiYN79A/s1600/IMG_1113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD__qiK0KEznGYwYB02xcZfPvuL7aM3hHeklrG8-4LVG3_-bor7-Awb1MPJeg9fSk1Vcou_dqVAZd60O62o27w1JxuPZAHqbu5ePtTFrXwqqlhkQviRhHqkiUi32VMukaoiYN79A/s400/IMG_1113.JPG" width="299" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I didn't take this photo from my paraglider. En route to YVR for a two day layover at home...</td></tr>
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</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Palabra!</div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-41967726574257098242011-11-09T14:43:00.000-08:002011-11-09T14:50:25.399-08:00Some Men Do Yoga...<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">And some men do <i>Man Yoga</i>.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is the lighthearted name of Jonny Walsh and Jonny Simms project on Canada's premiere alpine crag the Stanley Headwall.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Chris Geisler and I rocked into the Rockies for a few days to climb off our respected couches and see what early-season ice was in condish. We had been asked to come and say a few words at the Banff Mountain Film Fest on why the John Lauchlan award is important to Canadian alpinism, thank the patrons, and let them know exactly what we had spent their money on last year. Geisler hadn't climbed since August and I hadn't done anything except <i>Asteroid Alley</i> since my go at the Twin in September.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We were stoked though. Against all odds we said no to the parties and late night events that are the specialty of the Banff fest and went to bed early every night for predawn alpine starts. I was hoping to gain some much needed fitness for the upcoming season in Patagonia. This year I am joining my homie Hayden Kennedy down there for a session, so I knew I'd better get in shape.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Geisler had taken a tumble off his bike while goofing around at work a week-or-so previous and hurt his wrist, and the culmination of a few days of chipping ice had inflamed his injury. He was out. Luckily, I ran into Jon Walsh at the Fest and he was looking to hit the Headwall early the next morning to try and finish off the Man Yoga project. Simms had just bailed on him via text message. We were both thinking the same thing...</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKYjt-1TtG5Ay4FNZTZ1HoNX-tgjASUgJW6p3mjXhI9siQMSoAVasftyZbrfl-vP4s2k9qevGulBRWYy7NkQ3cLfbYuhBGGgowzQWYMzZ9Siqqyifs4JFBTRAZoWe4aca1Ypkuw/s1600/GOPR4756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKYjt-1TtG5Ay4FNZTZ1HoNX-tgjASUgJW6p3mjXhI9siQMSoAVasftyZbrfl-vP4s2k9qevGulBRWYy7NkQ3cLfbYuhBGGgowzQWYMzZ9Siqqyifs4JFBTRAZoWe4aca1Ypkuw/s400/GOPR4756.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The living legend CG in his Japanese Rocket-box. My handlebar 'stache is fallout from Halloween...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrX7kUuXo3I998Hv9zae6ljfoWGzPIsNsRYE4gvlIAlObh71ZluQTcuwcoHnilx1uErTUK91X2zDeTdpPgdidVhXYNBiTR1mjxvb3CKlAF9nQ0WVY0tGO2vdCM9LmNJVFVY9RMGw/s1600/IMG_0413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrX7kUuXo3I998Hv9zae6ljfoWGzPIsNsRYE4gvlIAlObh71ZluQTcuwcoHnilx1uErTUK91X2zDeTdpPgdidVhXYNBiTR1mjxvb3CKlAF9nQ0WVY0tGO2vdCM9LmNJVFVY9RMGw/s400/IMG_0413.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first real pitch of <i>Man Yoga</i>. Steep M7. perfect rock and gear.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhee_PSVPrB0TKn866qmwM8fjaPvGQRR6ytSrXy0mtVNoziMq8mMwJKfF2WaNWC7ZEy8iupHhfWr1172A7vf5-5TekdziNhxGbcl1aTHxPjC6WYx65-k85MaD6DmAUcQ9reNhXKNQ/s1600/IMG_0415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhee_PSVPrB0TKn866qmwM8fjaPvGQRR6ytSrXy0mtVNoziMq8mMwJKfF2WaNWC7ZEy8iupHhfWr1172A7vf5-5TekdziNhxGbcl1aTHxPjC6WYx65-k85MaD6DmAUcQ9reNhXKNQ/s400/IMG_0415.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonny Red styles it...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9EE14d3Ay1Hq6PgmHQ93-s2xw1KxZc8PnSYwfy6rTZdZacGfF3LRgvyt8q_OGV9vqNJ2KkIJw-elJnPi9I5OeFkvwezZfwYdoJnVL8qm1epPPiZvogiU_moD_W31Jeg4Wqn91g/s1600/IMG_0417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9EE14d3Ay1Hq6PgmHQ93-s2xw1KxZc8PnSYwfy6rTZdZacGfF3LRgvyt8q_OGV9vqNJ2KkIJw-elJnPi9I5OeFkvwezZfwYdoJnVL8qm1epPPiZvogiU_moD_W31Jeg4Wqn91g/s400/IMG_0417.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pitch climbs through the overhanging chimney feature on amazing thin cracks that eat your tool picks.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqn4dWZwsIT4tJBmvt5BnWZGEuvqJ2YOLXmO03MEyWVqnTOWqWGFRKmlJhtigcWOvH2VSt_Pb2ZbW64JbxQadtNx1GM5evS4xsgvNrElwEdSvMvhAFRc8viAWqUL8CkidLxClKQ/s1600/IMG_0443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqn4dWZwsIT4tJBmvt5BnWZGEuvqJ2YOLXmO03MEyWVqnTOWqWGFRKmlJhtigcWOvH2VSt_Pb2ZbW64JbxQadtNx1GM5evS4xsgvNrElwEdSvMvhAFRc8viAWqUL8CkidLxClKQ/s400/IMG_0443.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR follows pitch 2. Delicate M7. Attention needed for full value climbing.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjce8ErK6OhzTfaD-cbuNB6q418I9g-DAce2-_7y4ArrAcdzZ98jCERF7_t8tbRn51_6wbYgxz-0EnQ6w4RCInubg7tNXGpMqTF_DbrOmvi6sCunEmSjEmKyzi9TwRx4UhETQDFAQ/s1600/IMG_0448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjce8ErK6OhzTfaD-cbuNB6q418I9g-DAce2-_7y4ArrAcdzZ98jCERF7_t8tbRn51_6wbYgxz-0EnQ6w4RCInubg7tNXGpMqTF_DbrOmvi6sCunEmSjEmKyzi9TwRx4UhETQDFAQ/s400/IMG_0448.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxi4orlK_yjll47gChJs3eXbnH6qi-c7qJcOkY7w5r_YXsQZHAVI10XM_VTnZK5GPJAmQPUJ1kQaEZG0_0KHK-zxiMlk2JtebrTjVjFbzDzRC1gJvhD2s0lF8lhIZNP8c2XKZAlQ/s1600/IMG_0453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxi4orlK_yjll47gChJs3eXbnH6qi-c7qJcOkY7w5r_YXsQZHAVI10XM_VTnZK5GPJAmQPUJ1kQaEZG0_0KHK-zxiMlk2JtebrTjVjFbzDzRC1gJvhD2s0lF8lhIZNP8c2XKZAlQ/s400/IMG_0453.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsZqinpSiTt227QDZotMmvuz5b0-4dn2Gy__yOKX6Y54WFtYgJd5O509n5zy1nxsk_49pcrQTeChRE-QGJar3qM3Dw-x4s0d0UqYdTNZ2VBcxjM-CwNkRCKA_GhEDtifRmyLmNA/s1600/IMG_0463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsZqinpSiTt227QDZotMmvuz5b0-4dn2Gy__yOKX6Y54WFtYgJd5O509n5zy1nxsk_49pcrQTeChRE-QGJar3qM3Dw-x4s0d0UqYdTNZ2VBcxjM-CwNkRCKA_GhEDtifRmyLmNA/s400/IMG_0463.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR leads the easiest pitch of the route. M5 with great holds and gear. This rock is primo.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0WF9GPz74VHxwgPZ7h4OMjHPm4e53r_cSdk4RAkDvdQ2JWp_JUg5oO18eTtLu37PrYn7Y524T8ipxtddpfUIr4eXQrhEYK2qm_JuJ4lJoMy50_v6jFLxgi4nltG5UPrUgvTr9w/s1600/IMG_0471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0WF9GPz74VHxwgPZ7h4OMjHPm4e53r_cSdk4RAkDvdQ2JWp_JUg5oO18eTtLu37PrYn7Y524T8ipxtddpfUIr4eXQrhEYK2qm_JuJ4lJoMy50_v6jFLxgi4nltG5UPrUgvTr9w/s400/IMG_0471.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRKEQV7hZr1yfK4eSCv8eGO6hQ5-ZRckn0Qgfs5oy-U_zTSLLY2EcF6BEifVBfXE2uLi9cIm8iSBhkSeJgn-xYMQ1EAX3GnInP60KwvgfJ2j-oM5TBzAWi_wqUNELBjeAVB17dQ/s1600/IMG_0473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRKEQV7hZr1yfK4eSCv8eGO6hQ5-ZRckn0Qgfs5oy-U_zTSLLY2EcF6BEifVBfXE2uLi9cIm8iSBhkSeJgn-xYMQ1EAX3GnInP60KwvgfJ2j-oM5TBzAWi_wqUNELBjeAVB17dQ/s400/IMG_0473.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdR2dRuF_1hpxPMD8pqS-8_XJGdpsAY7fWhQbMmknI6og-2KrpYY2iGqHMeuWYfv4zoan7ikx1hYZ_6mEQBlBR9J4gkiyZagJSMNSQnNOK8BtkJPyKQvongAS5PcdIJwSD26u8gQ/s1600/IMG_0480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdR2dRuF_1hpxPMD8pqS-8_XJGdpsAY7fWhQbMmknI6og-2KrpYY2iGqHMeuWYfv4zoan7ikx1hYZ_6mEQBlBR9J4gkiyZagJSMNSQnNOK8BtkJPyKQvongAS5PcdIJwSD26u8gQ/s400/IMG_0480.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR follows the crux pitch. Huge exposure through a crazy roof. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb2vk5dLk-WFYSDxzuiBtAdql4_sIsTAnzCKsDPi-l3M5Qt70KHA4-0k2FnVSDHlrEO2EP76peGdQbzsl-roJHufFClg8PMpc_urCgPg_Zp5eXaN30b1x-0a1vqHUGePvcwpINng/s1600/IMG_0481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb2vk5dLk-WFYSDxzuiBtAdql4_sIsTAnzCKsDPi-l3M5Qt70KHA4-0k2FnVSDHlrEO2EP76peGdQbzsl-roJHufFClg8PMpc_urCgPg_Zp5eXaN30b1x-0a1vqHUGePvcwpINng/s400/IMG_0481.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mad respect to JR for putting this rad pitch up on lead the season previous.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMqxZCBTBUAC2_zWJlU9QSYySSnRuw_2nm0UUWkunPhW5DJqyH6I8cZXReIyFI9HxmzvIcc3QiqVoC0npUgFUuGphylbUoyHxSyFLEC_D0Xz2yvHZF0WCi4_72PY0LzDoDzrpNrQ/s1600/IMG_0484.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMqxZCBTBUAC2_zWJlU9QSYySSnRuw_2nm0UUWkunPhW5DJqyH6I8cZXReIyFI9HxmzvIcc3QiqVoC0npUgFUuGphylbUoyHxSyFLEC_D0Xz2yvHZF0WCi4_72PY0LzDoDzrpNrQ/s400/IMG_0484.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXoE94Mi-Rp5txsmmbRAYPvbRwwAWJMBi9_5CY8dSwKMZf3PCa-PIjxP1qJyhWu2y3yw4V63lfm19dOEV-QqifIsGTY3NG-ocX_AU_EnkLznQwLuXe90Zd-g_XIunUVfpbmlcdw/s1600/IMG_0489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXoE94Mi-Rp5txsmmbRAYPvbRwwAWJMBi9_5CY8dSwKMZf3PCa-PIjxP1qJyhWu2y3yw4V63lfm19dOEV-QqifIsGTY3NG-ocX_AU_EnkLznQwLuXe90Zd-g_XIunUVfpbmlcdw/s400/IMG_0489.jpg" width="297" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLgfgBryf3_3nkx0dYZlPqnJwMyqsRqr83r4KY-KyC2CJYCTzkL3kChP8_Gu9EbiCH70qlqMgbDEmHgMscAZ1LzTL70tUNu4VOkeNaZo93kHdTsc89gFQadvPJheRaeZ_Y1csIw/s1600/IMG_0497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLgfgBryf3_3nkx0dYZlPqnJwMyqsRqr83r4KY-KyC2CJYCTzkL3kChP8_Gu9EbiCH70qlqMgbDEmHgMscAZ1LzTL70tUNu4VOkeNaZo93kHdTsc89gFQadvPJheRaeZ_Y1csIw/s400/IMG_0497.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fighting an intense pump to the belay.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofxpveTfQ7rY35D-jWIVdMI7rfQPe5WaeJ17obyVW7oamsSJhiVr1rvaNEdbRGFQjo5S2TkXctTbSXdxi-4MmXU-aJElQnh6y8Iq8jiS5MT6EKwAHSl2oP8epVuqrULXfj1ostw/s1600/IMG_0503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofxpveTfQ7rY35D-jWIVdMI7rfQPe5WaeJ17obyVW7oamsSJhiVr1rvaNEdbRGFQjo5S2TkXctTbSXdxi-4MmXU-aJElQnh6y8Iq8jiS5MT6EKwAHSl2oP8epVuqrULXfj1ostw/s400/IMG_0503.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I felt so privileged to be climbing such a high-quality route. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhca6cpHufcuqotwNGrZslLjMljP_hmCpYRKdAHUNm-U58as6qcRlQUu48sjrve_zL4rWHnd-Z6Fyh1uT6mkpZkbPAs_YGmAlTJ_OxuBSnwa6ofSBJ53-x2rVjhv6CQLhznoa7NKw/s1600/IMG_0504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhca6cpHufcuqotwNGrZslLjMljP_hmCpYRKdAHUNm-U58as6qcRlQUu48sjrve_zL4rWHnd-Z6Fyh1uT6mkpZkbPAs_YGmAlTJ_OxuBSnwa6ofSBJ53-x2rVjhv6CQLhznoa7NKw/s400/IMG_0504.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What an ugly 'stache... It's going to be a long month...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_SrQQnvFLTNtRcA1cdqMgwgSVjPbRI-tyatqgQieEiHtIfF13ClvbUBQQrxrWDec5iHk-TMYu1ES-4CS5owWCDAyeRXRkGuZFBZBh6aPA_cy1iAzxipb-n5w_tRYnUVqzTupnA/s1600/IMG_0505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_SrQQnvFLTNtRcA1cdqMgwgSVjPbRI-tyatqgQieEiHtIfF13ClvbUBQQrxrWDec5iHk-TMYu1ES-4CS5owWCDAyeRXRkGuZFBZBh6aPA_cy1iAzxipb-n5w_tRYnUVqzTupnA/s400/IMG_0505.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR leads beyond the previous season's highpoint.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ9AV1ovjHWJ0vFvHk1ly-9aebcUZhgWN4YmtofUFFLMUaY-ST_kkV-5jDUIVJkMv-pOzREqyVopkI0YRCGaunJZxXkoH0Btyn_t8vI57v_zs9iU_Gqp0iywqdkxv0sTBZfzSDSA/s1600/IMG_0510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ9AV1ovjHWJ0vFvHk1ly-9aebcUZhgWN4YmtofUFFLMUaY-ST_kkV-5jDUIVJkMv-pOzREqyVopkI0YRCGaunJZxXkoH0Btyn_t8vI57v_zs9iU_Gqp0iywqdkxv0sTBZfzSDSA/s400/IMG_0510.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An amazing corner of thin ice and rock features, finishing with a steep ice column.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBCrFzECWnjMUykitr0ISSMuM3HMHnNK6k6yVWdH2fIFn0LHk7kC7wQvAVBCuNmMBKqxg0vfUbEc_KmnY1QavunYshYYpnV6SL4VtK0WfMIcCD9Nl5jaKfgA5gVWAbZ_4en77cA/s1600/IMG_0517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBCrFzECWnjMUykitr0ISSMuM3HMHnNK6k6yVWdH2fIFn0LHk7kC7wQvAVBCuNmMBKqxg0vfUbEc_KmnY1QavunYshYYpnV6SL4VtK0WfMIcCD9Nl5jaKfgA5gVWAbZ_4en77cA/s400/IMG_0517.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following with tired arms, but soo stoked on such rad climbing!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhANF4rMJISLezZi3TykFWPUV2VfzLO_VCOvfO1lwlQYGj0YGpNMy9Bkv7u8DGTU5gadk_YtdCypMrrcHZtFwpyWu3IBmvip5YzrbARMCVdzFUr-GgMyQN6iOhdhUSNvqYrlaYfLw/s1600/IMG_0522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhANF4rMJISLezZi3TykFWPUV2VfzLO_VCOvfO1lwlQYGj0YGpNMy9Bkv7u8DGTU5gadk_YtdCypMrrcHZtFwpyWu3IBmvip5YzrbARMCVdzFUr-GgMyQN6iOhdhUSNvqYrlaYfLw/s400/IMG_0522.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading out on the last pitch of steep grade 5. Bullet-hard ice and worked forearms made grade 5 harder than ever. I hung on to take <i>Man Yoga</i> to the rim of the Stanley Headwall.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">For those waiting for the continuation of the Mystery Mountain series, I promise it's on its way soon. I was sidelined by mild tendonitis and had to recover fully before jumping back on the computer-box again. Now I'm good to go, and I am off to Mexico today for a month of paragliding (aka para-waiting) so I'll have more than enough time to finish off the series...</div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-7517086990868125622011-10-10T11:35:00.000-07:002011-10-10T11:42:59.304-07:00Asteroid Alley<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Every time I'd hang with my good buddy Zack Smith from Colorado, he'd always ask me about climbing in the Canadian Rockies. He was really keen to make the trip north and check it out. We never managed to hook up though. Living on the coast, I was close enough to the Rockies to watch the weather and blast for a weekend hit when conditions were right. It was too far from home for Zack to do the same, and I was unwilling to hang out in Canmore for a couple weeks waiting for good weather.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally, I agreed to meet him out east. We'd chill and climb together on whatever was good - alpine, big or small, sport climbing, or Yamnuska.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I drove to the Bow Valley and was greeted by fresh snow, lots of it. We were on a holding pattern for a few days. The weather looked good for most of one day. With considerable concern for the avalanche hazard, we opted to try something steep. <i>Asteroid Alley</i> on Mt. Andromeda had been recommended to me countless times but I had resisted climbing it. It seemed like a lot of effort to get up early and make the long drive up the Parkway to climb a short, moderate route, no matter how seemingly classic it was. Zack hadn't done much limestone climbing though, and was keen for a warmup. It seemed a good objective considering the touchy conditions.</div><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As it turned out, the route was quite enjoyable and with all new snow, the snow mushrooms on route made the climbing entertaining. The route was a total spindriff factory all day long, we were getting constantly battered by sluffs which gave it a real 'alpine' feel. I didn't want to soak my camera, so I only took it out to snap pics in between the spindriff.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO0XudWIh7lrje6TgxLbhEgIkfmWKykgUBTOc8mVB7lpEfItSd-epRVW8FzGdRtR-TO3n7Y_xjk5W-ok2qF5q4l_KPmYIVd_f_waN3gJ4JaqU7c559t7tjo2pP6_HanbBWYmxRTg/s1600/P1040415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO0XudWIh7lrje6TgxLbhEgIkfmWKykgUBTOc8mVB7lpEfItSd-epRVW8FzGdRtR-TO3n7Y_xjk5W-ok2qF5q4l_KPmYIVd_f_waN3gJ4JaqU7c559t7tjo2pP6_HanbBWYmxRTg/s400/P1040415.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Andromeda. </span><i style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Asteroid Alley</i><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> at centre.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHXLQwthYqtHXpjUQDspdeoU-tGR1xse8RTZ33Rgi3qM5d88RQ3SvoT75meZDEPHxiXWiS7KdntoGhd9hDYihMI4iOpx0WK1FQlBmmrB-Nte32cyW9e__SXurU755t4nD4edrCg/s1600/P1040438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHXLQwthYqtHXpjUQDspdeoU-tGR1xse8RTZ33Rgi3qM5d88RQ3SvoT75meZDEPHxiXWiS7KdntoGhd9hDYihMI4iOpx0WK1FQlBmmrB-Nte32cyW9e__SXurU755t4nD4edrCg/s400/P1040438.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Zack leads pitch one: low angle snow-covered rock.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLuITgyNP8VU9NX-4OCRnkdEHrv4TCGZvlah4xdhcaXaL9tkKfTqw5nulay75n-H3CXGNFE1mlRLBrSF0nclZ6S0JYX5owkzdM90qb9wjyYqjdwVLPHTJGQPgiNN5_pHfJrZwBeQ/s1600/P1010277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLuITgyNP8VU9NX-4OCRnkdEHrv4TCGZvlah4xdhcaXaL9tkKfTqw5nulay75n-H3CXGNFE1mlRLBrSF0nclZ6S0JYX5owkzdM90qb9wjyYqjdwVLPHTJGQPgiNN5_pHfJrZwBeQ/s400/P1010277.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Following pitch one.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rgfxvQ85Nn0tg5uG8TIU5L0O9C-yo1yYm0VPaCUAXtn4HxQHDquH35jUMhSTpfKrGLKLjlWMpSu2omiqbny2fwEg1x7mAsUOFDsLXUqgGRtXsO8ffohdMlARrWCbmO-KNuv4lA/s1600/P1010292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rgfxvQ85Nn0tg5uG8TIU5L0O9C-yo1yYm0VPaCUAXtn4HxQHDquH35jUMhSTpfKrGLKLjlWMpSu2omiqbny2fwEg1x7mAsUOFDsLXUqgGRtXsO8ffohdMlARrWCbmO-KNuv4lA/s400/P1010292.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The hallmark of the route: pitch two start with a vertical chimney choked with ice. Quite enjoyable. the uberhanging snow mushrooms on this pitch made for entertaining mixed climbing around them.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Q0wElXPYzG0UHx9DhJv-pKeD6H1sH9s5ecdUhIaHcGbpXJqZ2XWhshu_X6oF46MUV69nYc_s2p5-zEZ8tCmIYB9hGdXCAfbdxNWqNZYnQ_ycRpuXk4AUTWHCKfUSyy0VL7tdLg/s1600/P1010298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Q0wElXPYzG0UHx9DhJv-pKeD6H1sH9s5ecdUhIaHcGbpXJqZ2XWhshu_X6oF46MUV69nYc_s2p5-zEZ8tCmIYB9hGdXCAfbdxNWqNZYnQ_ycRpuXk4AUTWHCKfUSyy0VL7tdLg/s400/P1010298.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The spindriff was quite intense. I was glad to have my hood up.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8CLCf-3KdfzEECwhj9viZtXCUQlhnZM6vrePXjDMhmgQWaVhE-yG9w7sG4HMp6_SFAaw2wnXyEw6SD3YWeO3vXwZ1L4xo3sT6f7h1rgmJxP2WMY8iDog3NKvj-2ePPH_tNreIA/s1600/P1040451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8CLCf-3KdfzEECwhj9viZtXCUQlhnZM6vrePXjDMhmgQWaVhE-yG9w7sG4HMp6_SFAaw2wnXyEw6SD3YWeO3vXwZ1L4xo3sT6f7h1rgmJxP2WMY8iDog3NKvj-2ePPH_tNreIA/s400/P1040451.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I was having a lot of fun so I just kept climbing and climbing on the second pitch. I went about 80m before I put in a belay. I didn't bring enough screws but luckily you pass under a couple of chockstones. Bomber pro.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdo7PSpbWjVttHfZBjTBc1vC3u536Kw0bZ6di8bhnYKZ3e3DwInTpA9lYCRLcqkXAFjmAv6NeUJJKx0hYQbH0X3EkngXGqSfjkC9Kz4tTq4PMNvFT_j4yL2qBE8hpNDwtmcC8KQ/s1600/P1040458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdo7PSpbWjVttHfZBjTBc1vC3u536Kw0bZ6di8bhnYKZ3e3DwInTpA9lYCRLcqkXAFjmAv6NeUJJKx0hYQbH0X3EkngXGqSfjkC9Kz4tTq4PMNvFT_j4yL2qBE8hpNDwtmcC8KQ/s400/P1040458.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Slack nearing the belay.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBnVz7k51HNoU2xvZayvDmmxFXICHL855N2Th56v0BHRNfc55PvvF5mjkXCzzKUALCDnH2llcEqC5Y5OGc3cWQKmLiu1cItkkjfgsc8O0-2C0z3R2Jm0n7-QoHaEDRy6xbuOV5Zg/s1600/P1040460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBnVz7k51HNoU2xvZayvDmmxFXICHL855N2Th56v0BHRNfc55PvvF5mjkXCzzKUALCDnH2llcEqC5Y5OGc3cWQKmLiu1cItkkjfgsc8O0-2C0z3R2Jm0n7-QoHaEDRy6xbuOV5Zg/s400/P1040460.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Zack was having fun getting used to the unique nature of Rockies mixed climbing.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OXcY_pVRIvxzVNE_qdd-pn89x0mYcU5QWvDxTivhJWdAgY09eDFCU8AiGJME-G2gZ4FZ9jGwmqUkl0VgfuJT37tOqWX16D0Ci0Fjrk9V6Bv4uPRMcEP1CybYyBfSW3jB20pMdw/s1600/P1040465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OXcY_pVRIvxzVNE_qdd-pn89x0mYcU5QWvDxTivhJWdAgY09eDFCU8AiGJME-G2gZ4FZ9jGwmqUkl0VgfuJT37tOqWX16D0Ci0Fjrk9V6Bv4uPRMcEP1CybYyBfSW3jB20pMdw/s400/P1040465.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">"I feel like I'm learning how to climb again".</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Zack starts pitch three.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_m0ImykIKjo4UIMX3acuWvCIwCADhdboFt5Z4lXg-dUt-UGHd88JFoTPNfJ2q1AOE5zy5p4Tp0ITK1H18BzqjMjkAhHNStnDVUTTBJqbbPcuVXTRQBYOIRZrn2zU8py80edEYkQ/s1600/P1010312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_m0ImykIKjo4UIMX3acuWvCIwCADhdboFt5Z4lXg-dUt-UGHd88JFoTPNfJ2q1AOE5zy5p4Tp0ITK1H18BzqjMjkAhHNStnDVUTTBJqbbPcuVXTRQBYOIRZrn2zU8py80edEYkQ/s400/P1010312.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> Steep climbing, good rock.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The last pitch was more awkward than expected.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Zack negotiates a tricky snowed-up slab.</span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugi8KGjfJxXfewArk0TP8hTDCE7uTgcYYyWHfv0TGiBnrbFf_64SF3if0HVR7tvirSodhD5wmLv1yeQrMp5lrocuYIabbGSb9hdOAPnIs45G7beyypktpLTjJMgyQ8jh0-a1U0A/s1600/P1040479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugi8KGjfJxXfewArk0TP8hTDCE7uTgcYYyWHfv0TGiBnrbFf_64SF3if0HVR7tvirSodhD5wmLv1yeQrMp5lrocuYIabbGSb9hdOAPnIs45G7beyypktpLTjJMgyQ8jh0-a1U0A/s400/P1040479.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGycJ_SQFHkXYzhx16zkzAO-Ymb_bCncDnt8p93q7UHXog3Xaft5xWeWI-OsrsCjp27y-O012xEytNZiGpeth7JSM_50RqRtcgK48TmvNyDIchlYMP0dFZyAlJGn8ukAfh0n3aw/s1600/P1040487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGycJ_SQFHkXYzhx16zkzAO-Ymb_bCncDnt8p93q7UHXog3Xaft5xWeWI-OsrsCjp27y-O012xEytNZiGpeth7JSM_50RqRtcgK48TmvNyDIchlYMP0dFZyAlJGn8ukAfh0n3aw/s400/P1040487.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Zack likes to stick his tongue out.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVumsyWcFXWt4q49Brupl-XBmvwLYDhWBU4h3gxyh_tHlWVIqQ42kjazDAQTX9IXBcTvIbIhPljENsDnzkw5Qh_1Lnm2-O26GIfm-RfFnW-7GYnbL_sW8FNlBcGBZWCTjyOFr5OQ/s400/P1040493.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yup.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-51830634345924314372011-10-06T12:17:00.000-07:002011-10-06T14:38:20.369-07:00The journey to Mystery Mountain - part 1<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It's been a while since I've been back from Waddington and haven't posted anything yet... Well, it's been for a few reasons:</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(a) I went to try the North Face of North Twin (again). You can read how that crazy mission went over at Jon Walsh's blog <a href="http://alpinestyle.ca/2011/09/16/twins_tower_9112011_attempt_to_climb_the_north_face">here</a></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(b) I went to work for a week.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(c) I decided to learn how to use Final Cut Pro in depth and decided to use all the footage shot from the trip on the Lumix GH2 and the GoPro and tell the story in the film medium.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My girlfriend Elise was very happy to have me back at home for a week. However, she was very unhappy that I spent every waking hour tweaking over an edit on the computer. Hope you enjoy, and let me know what you think:</div><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30043064?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe><br />
<br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/30043064"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Direct link here</span></a>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-8773877710233146522011-09-07T12:06:00.000-07:002011-09-07T12:12:08.180-07:00The Acto PSA!<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you read through the archives of this website you will see a distinct lack of gear reviews or blatant product placement. I don't really roll that way. It's transparent. I reckon the reader picks up on it instantly and is majorly put off. I prefer to fill my blog with good content rather than links to my sponsor's products. As an alpine climber, your attention to detail must extend to your gear. You gotta use the best stuff. Simple.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Consider this a public service announcement: you need to know about the new <a href="http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Acto-MX-Hoody#Hardfleece">Arc'teryx Acto jacket</a>!</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Arc snuck this beauty onto the new fall '11 website without any fanfare. They should have made a bigger deal, though, it's the best thing to happen to softshell jackets... ever.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I had given up on softshells for my upper layers. The once game-changing Gamma Jacket hadn't received an update in far too long. The material was too heavy to justify using on a serious alpine climb. It didn't breath particularly well, either. I would sweat like a pig while climbing or working hard on the up while ski touring. I switched my systems to a lightweight fleece layer like the <a href="http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Mid_Layer-Sweaters/Delta-LT-Zip#">Delta LT</a> and a Gore piece on top like the <a href="http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Alpha-LT-Jacket#">Alpha LT</a> or new <a href="http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Alpha-FL-Jacket#">FL</a>.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Over two years ago now Arc started working with a new softshell material called Aerius Grid Loft. My good buddy and Arc designer Tony Richardson spun me up a very minimal jacket with the new material to try out. I took it to Patagonia and wore it on some smaller climbs, but I chose a burlier jacket to wear up Fitz Roy. At home, while ski touring one day, I explained to Tony that it just didn't feel like enough jacket for when the going got ugly. 'Keep wearing it. You'll see, it's by far the best material on the market.'</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">He was right. I wore it everyday while ski touring. That spring I wore it up the Emperor Face. The next year I took it to Patagonia and wore it on Cerro Torre. 'What's this svelte number you've got on?' was the question from all the alpine brethren when they saw it.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9WTUkHOCSjNVscXALycCtFmvKNDfJqR3qt3aY-r4yntbZITiC81RZpiUhTpVJquiTHVFfJi93-cJ5dGW_nTotVHmGRiRJVRlr9gHbef1xpDpPfdBKP6vSFy_AIX-jN1_1XH3cQQ/s1600/CAJ2011-test5+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9WTUkHOCSjNVscXALycCtFmvKNDfJqR3qt3aY-r4yntbZITiC81RZpiUhTpVJquiTHVFfJi93-cJ5dGW_nTotVHmGRiRJVRlr9gHbef1xpDpPfdBKP6vSFy_AIX-jN1_1XH3cQQ/s320/CAJ2011-test5+copy.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony's prototype design on the cover of the CAJ!</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally, two years later, the Arc team has perfected the piece and released it to the world. It's a no frills design, just the essentials. Two pockets, a full-length zip, not much else. The hood is a thing of beauty, perfectly fitting over a helmet with the minimum of elastic cord and toggles. The magic of the jacket is really in the fabric. It is by far the most breathable softshell material I've used, but its super tight knit makes it extremely weather-proof. The fabric relies mostly on mechanics and cut for its stretch, meaning it is far more durable than any of the other softshells with a lycra content. It has the perfect amount of insulation for an active jacket. All this for 500 grams.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is exactly what makes Arc'teryx the premiere apparel company on the planet. They'll wait years on a fabric, and fully test it out before releasing it. A refreshing approach as it seems most companies want to jump at the chance to release 'the next big thing' before doing enough R&D. If you can only buy one Arc'teryx jacket, this is the one for you.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDfv69_dlWEqON4A9I8U4HU02clUo-JIHbrcRcFUAePC0ktBPHFTlXg8TnTSc9u6dENeLXPO9shHq_kFFWTfG-mXa1V9PmEhODLsnaGFYr1fYbp6dZth7XTJIj1dM0VBWt-OuJqg/s1600/acto1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDfv69_dlWEqON4A9I8U4HU02clUo-JIHbrcRcFUAePC0ktBPHFTlXg8TnTSc9u6dENeLXPO9shHq_kFFWTfG-mXa1V9PmEhODLsnaGFYr1fYbp6dZth7XTJIj1dM0VBWt-OuJqg/s320/acto1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony wears the new Acto Jacket during our epic Waddington rafting/bushwhacking/new routing adventure a week ago.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUMsmqYfsO90ZH5hUCEXYro580liJ9-9l1nOXYplLs3TKwZjjZk5n4eTfED_k0bjFZGQsjdYe0t7esO8Rxx1kJwHOO5HbkiCqjR2iEqrHtFYzeKT0peHZSUqZjr2rH49-4vp01g/s1600/acto2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUMsmqYfsO90ZH5hUCEXYro580liJ9-9l1nOXYplLs3TKwZjjZk5n4eTfED_k0bjFZGQsjdYe0t7esO8Rxx1kJwHOO5HbkiCqjR2iEqrHtFYzeKT0peHZSUqZjr2rH49-4vp01g/s320/acto2.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony showing the ground we covered. Up soon is the story behind our adventure, my favourite trip I've been on!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-18071359684227438682011-08-05T10:47:00.000-07:002011-08-10T21:22:25.657-07:00Coastal 'Pine Vistas<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A great week of film work so far deep in the Coast Range...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkv0DQpHUqRgml9Il9CszTCaFel1v6jhSK0LUQNdXN522zfnmse8W0hyeLQIFkWF-UAlap2ugu-aFQIHw-yyqEJrAR-CHjJwx3owyMR_xY1yuLXESp08poB5UHKSDKD_efkdwDg/s1600/P1030227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkv0DQpHUqRgml9Il9CszTCaFel1v6jhSK0LUQNdXN522zfnmse8W0hyeLQIFkWF-UAlap2ugu-aFQIHw-yyqEJrAR-CHjJwx3owyMR_xY1yuLXESp08poB5UHKSDKD_efkdwDg/s320/P1030227.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Chuck's shop, he can fix pretty much anything.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chuck talks shop with the boys.</td></tr>
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<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chuck demos his plasma cutter.</td></tr>
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<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jia, Perry, and the sweet coast range.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsXgMABdXKzdiV9LzgD1aDv8om4L64ulc9hD-i3n-3YIKUB-IG7LMO0tb3G1I34CemtxokuVHJV16C2zPkmN2Q6wFPydYdxHU8PXdr730eoMgU-0GvO2k1w3VTMfBwWbKnDZDJw/s1600/P1030300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsXgMABdXKzdiV9LzgD1aDv8om4L64ulc9hD-i3n-3YIKUB-IG7LMO0tb3G1I34CemtxokuVHJV16C2zPkmN2Q6wFPydYdxHU8PXdr730eoMgU-0GvO2k1w3VTMfBwWbKnDZDJw/s320/P1030300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edgar training hard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcHCFxCU7HZS6k13Sae1y01iCRSdajZnv-aysOLHUGFv-uk38-UkRgx04CzPqJ-kvE97f7elyzIeDGb65Gj0JrlFgwXbKM-6HsBb-TBwD1MznrctL-0Y7dKKXGgQMZE7wIV9BQg/s1600/P1030308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcHCFxCU7HZS6k13Sae1y01iCRSdajZnv-aysOLHUGFv-uk38-UkRgx04CzPqJ-kvE97f7elyzIeDGb65Gj0JrlFgwXbKM-6HsBb-TBwD1MznrctL-0Y7dKKXGgQMZE7wIV9BQg/s320/P1030308.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I took a lot of photos of this logging boom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tH8wIucZQ_pKoQOYbshVDmKjhHDg1yphOiBWeTg2RQxssqMyFo1_wDIdVFpM_jMPCnZMMnNGj9TaToat4BOPgRSv3lOd_ybZOxr0kmADmWe2KtqOppe_y_9JFjosgtE7svepLQ/s1600/P1030329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tH8wIucZQ_pKoQOYbshVDmKjhHDg1yphOiBWeTg2RQxssqMyFo1_wDIdVFpM_jMPCnZMMnNGj9TaToat4BOPgRSv3lOd_ybZOxr0kmADmWe2KtqOppe_y_9JFjosgtE7svepLQ/s320/P1030329.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgydtR09oRFeJBxwJyqMhqHqPz8rOnNgkJNi4Vs2fFhvAg1qMGXKeErj3OSuHGzJGmZtkN2egl5yBF2Osl8Xk5AgY6OY_-Lc_PF9u831B8C2c7jugZJSt4M45W19M00T6n4STZmVA/s1600/P1030342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgydtR09oRFeJBxwJyqMhqHqPz8rOnNgkJNi4Vs2fFhvAg1qMGXKeErj3OSuHGzJGmZtkN2egl5yBF2Osl8Xk5AgY6OY_-Lc_PF9u831B8C2c7jugZJSt4M45W19M00T6n4STZmVA/s320/P1030342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsYY21vlHTWRBfCWBdguvd22AJJgQIMhYs2qPpbB12rSKBlCeCIXYEIxmsVHhO8axRec8dqkEGzeK8SU7jG4l5rQa2Wowch3NcN9CDbrnZodzeaJr7Vpeh4dEHz5Q7rCwFyNC1w/s1600/P1030369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsYY21vlHTWRBfCWBdguvd22AJJgQIMhYs2qPpbB12rSKBlCeCIXYEIxmsVHhO8axRec8dqkEGzeK8SU7jG4l5rQa2Wowch3NcN9CDbrnZodzeaJr7Vpeh4dEHz5Q7rCwFyNC1w/s320/P1030369.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilot Paul.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvBtiBxM5C27qPSwKcx0VUGSrNY-IcRnquYdKmhp6MjWNjBvF4Cx6dJ35mwtBVOAySHfvWkAJ-HD42ffIURhoVvnHVUa3U890hqt5XnLstuBZYUc9v7JbYeo9Zbw1PMmie3XQuw/s1600/P1030373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvBtiBxM5C27qPSwKcx0VUGSrNY-IcRnquYdKmhp6MjWNjBvF4Cx6dJ35mwtBVOAySHfvWkAJ-HD42ffIURhoVvnHVUa3U890hqt5XnLstuBZYUc9v7JbYeo9Zbw1PMmie3XQuw/s320/P1030373.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glaciation.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHWgD_UVSzv9SBEQvZ2FOp2He13iY2uOMX4kPuIW5alwLaiq2KnZme-54bEfHtZvjEgILAch1H_WinjNm5DGqjLbVD5eh-aqo146NaYzgnY7Hp6R0cbNP2r5pnicBE53tsbZUGQ/s1600/P1030374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHWgD_UVSzv9SBEQvZ2FOp2He13iY2uOMX4kPuIW5alwLaiq2KnZme-54bEfHtZvjEgILAch1H_WinjNm5DGqjLbVD5eh-aqo146NaYzgnY7Hp6R0cbNP2r5pnicBE53tsbZUGQ/s320/P1030374.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hvS6syMcwhdqA3ek2gFQEcSgrc59R4ctfhxGzxPRzixxvTWm_nSzMIa3lGmnzCccLBufcVi84Xhqy5lY7d6w4d8MxhkkYARSw0N8oIDqarZymX4VxFFHy_Y0sEKG7CAEegMZGg/s1600/P1030384.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hvS6syMcwhdqA3ek2gFQEcSgrc59R4ctfhxGzxPRzixxvTWm_nSzMIa3lGmnzCccLBufcVi84Xhqy5lY7d6w4d8MxhkkYARSw0N8oIDqarZymX4VxFFHy_Y0sEKG7CAEegMZGg/s320/P1030384.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long lens shot of the Wadd!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1vU2Xyim2uOUpFMK7r-NZV4M5wJfQ2sSiQdju196jVO3EwCGPUHvGZTU3nvZDEFSgqifpHBjso456PsyId7wsa1fEB6M1173mfPFKqS6ymq_crnXQRCMSTsjDMLnVAG_vyfc5sg/s1600/P1030437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1vU2Xyim2uOUpFMK7r-NZV4M5wJfQ2sSiQdju196jVO3EwCGPUHvGZTU3nvZDEFSgqifpHBjso456PsyId7wsa1fEB6M1173mfPFKqS6ymq_crnXQRCMSTsjDMLnVAG_vyfc5sg/s320/P1030437.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kate and McSquishy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Qny30P83uMIYgT3DkEOzdOrIaJrMTiOAb0pQMeuEclks7WYkScjGrVDip09hNLRgx1TKWDYxMV0yCgMNIkeA5P68CSLUxw8uTJye5tAWHvSVe9uObgcl-XhwIzXM2azkGnRjtA/s1600/IMG_1152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Qny30P83uMIYgT3DkEOzdOrIaJrMTiOAb0pQMeuEclks7WYkScjGrVDip09hNLRgx1TKWDYxMV0yCgMNIkeA5P68CSLUxw8uTJye5tAWHvSVe9uObgcl-XhwIzXM2azkGnRjtA/s320/IMG_1152.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The commute to work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicmkOls-_PP1r4r8fGhB31A7gNm3HGIR-FLmyLrrAmPKROpa3tSraH3i-PttMbTAHvqqCEbXbrWIxb1DsxgPXwfVRRv0_Z6YHXmf0ocMbBITIuqkWEb9yfcdZfm5xW_Cm38udRDA/s1600/IMG_1162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicmkOls-_PP1r4r8fGhB31A7gNm3HGIR-FLmyLrrAmPKROpa3tSraH3i-PttMbTAHvqqCEbXbrWIxb1DsxgPXwfVRRv0_Z6YHXmf0ocMbBITIuqkWEb9yfcdZfm5xW_Cm38udRDA/s320/IMG_1162.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edgar poses on a piece of old logging equipment.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoRXxUHZEoXRtAx13i7oqsiVMq3nle1gQE9Em1YrkjKT-5zJWHe4K-CU9yQfuteSci2MtimjojuPAEujsZSgVmDqoqzz9mYZ8Os3A89w9Yym_NytNSgeAAehwXF7OoNXGCMXQ8w/s1600/IMG_1165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoRXxUHZEoXRtAx13i7oqsiVMq3nle1gQE9Em1YrkjKT-5zJWHe4K-CU9yQfuteSci2MtimjojuPAEujsZSgVmDqoqzz9mYZ8Os3A89w9Yym_NytNSgeAAehwXF7OoNXGCMXQ8w/s320/IMG_1165.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McSorley gets ground-schooled.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMB-byfzBwYwY_Nfj2rGYbd0ZDvtAM-pb62UPdbdBRt-BBzdkWesL8YV28jCYvpbAln6YBI1C8i2AQH8kgCPfohqEIB-G4blziYUP7g5jSgl_v2rDv1kLskP5iSdNr7dY-Da8Sng/s1600/IMG_1175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMB-byfzBwYwY_Nfj2rGYbd0ZDvtAM-pb62UPdbdBRt-BBzdkWesL8YV28jCYvpbAln6YBI1C8i2AQH8kgCPfohqEIB-G4blziYUP7g5jSgl_v2rDv1kLskP5iSdNr7dY-Da8Sng/s320/IMG_1175.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Wadd! (look close)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn32f11xFxeaV8heZi5Cl9rcpXLktn8uusf0brayXqK_TtwGTvS1miLD2KKrGi0lXGYA4kHcBlooFFfSYKjJQ55AgMyHYrKHIKpc-BeCS9UxhUp9GLYTcqW38jXD15twKvf6PSg/s1600/IMG_1179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn32f11xFxeaV8heZi5Cl9rcpXLktn8uusf0brayXqK_TtwGTvS1miLD2KKrGi0lXGYA4kHcBlooFFfSYKjJQ55AgMyHYrKHIKpc-BeCS9UxhUp9GLYTcqW38jXD15twKvf6PSg/s320/IMG_1179.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo in the heli.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkceC6g2epCo8onPVA-innPt9WwfpbqIEleMLd3yePjZrT0FnRVfj5o-XcqX-MuaBa_Z4_GTYl6xMv3VewfIv63tvsBCdt77OLD9mbj67zMFVYPoeqm2DNC-XMQwMEox2id-vePw/s1600/IMG_1182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkceC6g2epCo8onPVA-innPt9WwfpbqIEleMLd3yePjZrT0FnRVfj5o-XcqX-MuaBa_Z4_GTYl6xMv3VewfIv63tvsBCdt77OLD9mbj67zMFVYPoeqm2DNC-XMQwMEox2id-vePw/s320/IMG_1182.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Union break. A crew of real characters...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-25058240021982697122011-07-24T17:07:00.000-07:002011-07-25T20:50:25.284-07:00Summer in Squamish, Mt. Bute<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It took its sweet time, but summer has officially arrived in Squamish. </div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I returned home from Italy to a ridiculously bad weather forecast, it was supposed to slash rain every day with no end in sight. The very next day I was up early to catch the ferry across to Vancouver Island and Horne Lake. I had agreed to go and film with the Arc'teryx photo dudes Scott and Brian and visiting Arc athlete Nina Caprez of Switzerland at the premiere limestone sport crag of BC. I am not sure why they asked me to go, being a fat alpinist and all. Maybe they knew I am a sucker for nice Swiss girls? Maybe they just wanted to make fun of me for a few days...?</span><br />
<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">My only saving grace was that years ago I had many of the routes at Horne quite wired. After witnessing my sub-par skills, Nina probably wouldn't believe it, but it could have been a lot worse for me... </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02O9RColwEOmdosk0kvRs4azwpFCUreO6Koi9236AWSSgb8vD_Nix66ersp6S6yZYfbhqHpD1gWUJGpjy3HfGfIq6xM4WK220CuiEacpWGGgNYP1NCPUXUs-ERM_iZH4NdL59PQ/s1600/IMG_1092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02O9RColwEOmdosk0kvRs4azwpFCUreO6Koi9236AWSSgb8vD_Nix66ersp6S6yZYfbhqHpD1gWUJGpjy3HfGfIq6xM4WK220CuiEacpWGGgNYP1NCPUXUs-ERM_iZH4NdL59PQ/s320/IMG_1092.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nina and Brian buying gourmet jerky products in Coombs, BC. Nina is a beef jerky fanatic. Brian just loves shopping.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUihrAb-YHVKxvX8Uzhb5730L8NgPh2uGu0R2EnychdJtdtJsRMKWGftXvQoUZ9C7ilf4cf_ugxo1AuVa8VuZiTQb4Aqd2IL-k63RjoIZKaoDiBQ8qza-zBYXGq-X2lJl1wADWbg/s1600/IMG_1093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUihrAb-YHVKxvX8Uzhb5730L8NgPh2uGu0R2EnychdJtdtJsRMKWGftXvQoUZ9C7ilf4cf_ugxo1AuVa8VuZiTQb4Aqd2IL-k63RjoIZKaoDiBQ8qza-zBYXGq-X2lJl1wADWbg/s320/IMG_1093.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott Milton started climbing in the '80s and he is still damn good at it. He is the skinniest guy I know, despite a great affinity for éclairs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2d3YWR-SlumI8BCuZnGVWnaJYZiO0uWy_ErtdFGHHOU9ofe3HIED8KsX1C5ymjE7BJMvayNIjPx79jlk5yGjD-HtBUUZHRh04L6-EoIGj4HZw3HAGBY06VBRbMy8p1_u4SehwQ/s1600/IMG_1095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2d3YWR-SlumI8BCuZnGVWnaJYZiO0uWy_ErtdFGHHOU9ofe3HIED8KsX1C5ymjE7BJMvayNIjPx79jlk5yGjD-HtBUUZHRh04L6-EoIGj4HZw3HAGBY06VBRbMy8p1_u4SehwQ/s320/IMG_1095.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's always funny when Milton films me sport climbing or bouldering because I usually fall off, and he would actually send if it were him climbing... Here he jugs into position while Nina explains the merits of the 'caving jumar system' and I make fun of her for being a caver...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpE0rZhVxPvl6So8R1X9FNAaQtgm130nK_mfEx1t2TG8z5en_Qnvc_OAlcLEikZuQeaeH8Izbjw4-Nxy6EbxCcKe0ql7-3Bs2ds5H_uNvbvz3d755053Dn3TRJorhJcMmZB9ywYQ/s1600/IMG_1116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpE0rZhVxPvl6So8R1X9FNAaQtgm130nK_mfEx1t2TG8z5en_Qnvc_OAlcLEikZuQeaeH8Izbjw4-Nxy6EbxCcKe0ql7-3Bs2ds5H_uNvbvz3d755053Dn3TRJorhJcMmZB9ywYQ/s320/IMG_1116.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After two days of climbing overhanging limestone and one night sleeping in a giant teepee, we left Horne and drove to Long Beach. Nina was tired from <a href="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/caprez_makes_first_female_ascent_of_famous_514a/">her recent ascent of Silbergeier</a> and I was tired from being fat and out of shape.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_l8O2OrGPLz1td69koT-cmWOSSssZeSQjgVwXiWp3MJDpMcK0wnwGpNFU57n3XvqRf0Qd2BQAWiuOVaQNY25kahnKMFGBCJUKpxWnM7_fMg0eT7PBvEVUbm0BqSsgxtILuag82g/s1600/IMG_1117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_l8O2OrGPLz1td69koT-cmWOSSssZeSQjgVwXiWp3MJDpMcK0wnwGpNFU57n3XvqRf0Qd2BQAWiuOVaQNY25kahnKMFGBCJUKpxWnM7_fMg0eT7PBvEVUbm0BqSsgxtILuag82g/s320/IMG_1117.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We drove to the very edge of the Province. It's rare that it was beautiful and sunny in Tofino and slashing rain everywhere else. That never happens.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgZwjSn1h9AF27n0N1TxLQOytxgtmA_BX16sRFhRbIXNg7B5OM7ZxJEg6jZnTtzrVr39RA_tvbyZJRcKrcOeLBPq8TjHKFB4JQauzp8z2P05-AYJxDZvWIZne1LsYlY_86s3n7bQ/s1600/IMG_1118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgZwjSn1h9AF27n0N1TxLQOytxgtmA_BX16sRFhRbIXNg7B5OM7ZxJEg6jZnTtzrVr39RA_tvbyZJRcKrcOeLBPq8TjHKFB4JQauzp8z2P05-AYJxDZvWIZne1LsYlY_86s3n7bQ/s320/IMG_1118.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Milton eats more pastries.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOitntkI-WnMmJWgWLScScX-Z_97lVmucFNR1a4jcg45M3nCn1fWg2MBg286-IVebxxPD03SO6aR8NrR19w6QAv7eOqNC9xTIjofDtETeu1fimLzImxnBt8AWiS6ZUg8am54ygTA/s1600/IMG_1123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOitntkI-WnMmJWgWLScScX-Z_97lVmucFNR1a4jcg45M3nCn1fWg2MBg286-IVebxxPD03SO6aR8NrR19w6QAv7eOqNC9xTIjofDtETeu1fimLzImxnBt8AWiS6ZUg8am54ygTA/s320/IMG_1123.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrived back in Squamish for the start of the Squamish Mountain Fest. Somehow I was roped in to teaching back-to-back aid climbing clinics in the slashing rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpeCdAZYP7EccWq9_sibQMVyjRZoB-J47uYQka_rDK1CuxPFFUksY6gqE3wA2piOhydY7nheVfN-M0biutuGtfC60n4tqJlQKWxMKC-Hb2Y05eQTUNWsHO_ysKD2G4la5NLrccw/s1600/IMG_1150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpeCdAZYP7EccWq9_sibQMVyjRZoB-J47uYQka_rDK1CuxPFFUksY6gqE3wA2piOhydY7nheVfN-M0biutuGtfC60n4tqJlQKWxMKC-Hb2Y05eQTUNWsHO_ysKD2G4la5NLrccw/s320/IMG_1150.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These last few days have really felt like summer. The rain has stopped and the rock is drying out nice and quickly.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvaYY9D_34krq4Kow3wM5JR7bxC820Z6yfpcLG7Eoxs-06mfwsVmsSt53meiRzRUchVsNWLhZYlWMszh0wlLrChbEjvSG_WadpLeWbySkaj4Xh_xf0zD1Ory3Vkub-f7N09pINA/s1600/IMG_1138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvaYY9D_34krq4Kow3wM5JR7bxC820Z6yfpcLG7Eoxs-06mfwsVmsSt53meiRzRUchVsNWLhZYlWMszh0wlLrChbEjvSG_WadpLeWbySkaj4Xh_xf0zD1Ory3Vkub-f7N09pINA/s320/IMG_1138.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony Richardson invited me to go for my annual mountain bike ride with him and our buddy Rich K. Here he loads the bikes into his 'truck'... Okay, it's a hatchback-truck... Quite a clever bit of design, his bike-carrying truck mod is.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VMnycDRl0J3YASFgFMw2Gb7huaUnWfmIhzfZtdKfAwXXXHCZQNSQmil5XtjMPhqVxKeZDGcQd5sDZUH5ezjKF-GSsSdLN7V29HTmLkYU9b_KtdebHCwl3BbLAVyLKU_np4RibA/s1600/IMG_1140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VMnycDRl0J3YASFgFMw2Gb7huaUnWfmIhzfZtdKfAwXXXHCZQNSQmil5XtjMPhqVxKeZDGcQd5sDZUH5ezjKF-GSsSdLN7V29HTmLkYU9b_KtdebHCwl3BbLAVyLKU_np4RibA/s320/IMG_1140.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As usual when I go biking, our ride is cut short by something breaking. In this case it wasn't me, but Tony who broke his real derailleur on the uphill. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQzWuwfSCIOhHFrabCPhvfTvmZsDp5-hKV0GB0gvyc10-qh6-v4A8BkUjrHcusEP4U5OZUdQXRxJh-O2L_pgdmZZD5D4V2cOr3QRWsLDSiEpPfaWQMbLtXL90IxUGDQ3_zCGgCA/s1600/IMG_1143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQzWuwfSCIOhHFrabCPhvfTvmZsDp5-hKV0GB0gvyc10-qh6-v4A8BkUjrHcusEP4U5OZUdQXRxJh-O2L_pgdmZZD5D4V2cOr3QRWsLDSiEpPfaWQMbLtXL90IxUGDQ3_zCGgCA/s320/IMG_1143.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We rode the recently refurbished classic Pseudo Tsuga. I had ridden this trail over a decade before! Can you tell I'm a really hard-core biker?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoEpeAsvy_H0jJNFi3IwHBpUirXw7Kur0q8uB-tIVMW3JcA9ZpU4yKhV7xG3eJpkVWaNrINlXzlld2b5LhTdnGXNgOj5_D6MNXBEKz5WkK7I9AldPuoAtBlnkt4ZzBv5QVz9UtCQ/s1600/Martinello-Bute-RL-5x4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoEpeAsvy_H0jJNFi3IwHBpUirXw7Kur0q8uB-tIVMW3JcA9ZpU4yKhV7xG3eJpkVWaNrINlXzlld2b5LhTdnGXNgOj5_D6MNXBEKz5WkK7I9AldPuoAtBlnkt4ZzBv5QVz9UtCQ/s320/Martinello-Bute-RL-5x4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jimmy Martinello's shot of Mt. Bute, to where I am flying tomorrow for a couple weeks to film a stunt for a Hollywood movie. Hopefully I will have a few days to go and send too! I am very excited about the whole experience. These kind of big mountain gags usually get done with computers these days.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYKxf4qTzWqFsQxujebHaH-kEuNok4dLsw2SZ8yLLSbpdjklA61I1LWp1AQBA8Lju_CmfAstyG36iFmEex8fgwcvm2koLhHA7pXeYAthhFs7iT0HVd3mlI7EUo6_TVyYTAoAVvQ/s1600/IMG_1146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYKxf4qTzWqFsQxujebHaH-kEuNok4dLsw2SZ8yLLSbpdjklA61I1LWp1AQBA8Lju_CmfAstyG36iFmEex8fgwcvm2koLhHA7pXeYAthhFs7iT0HVd3mlI7EUo6_TVyYTAoAVvQ/s320/IMG_1146.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To put my Karma levels back in the black after flying into Mt. Bute, I am going on a crazy self-propelled rafting/alpine climbing adventure in the heart of the Coast range with Tony Richardson. Everyone who knows me well will tell you that I drown very easily, I am not one with water in its liquid medium. Here I am training for the whitewater behind Valleycliffe. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-37940731785234632382011-07-23T12:49:00.000-07:002011-07-23T12:50:24.374-07:00Smokes, Let's Go! Radio<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Okay, I've been threatening to produce an online radio show for some time now. I finally took advantage of a day when I was feeling very antisocial to bang out a mix for it's first edition.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/0KyPiiHw57A" width="425"></iframe> </div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This sweet tidbit of Canadiana provides the inspiration for the name of the series. This time it's all dance music. I've been too busy traveling to deejay at all, so I've been bursting at the seams with new favourites. In the future it won't be all dance, just music I like.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><object height="81" width="100%"> <param name="movie" value="http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F19595749"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed allowscriptaccess="always" height="81" src="http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F19595749" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="100%"></embed> </object> <a href="http://soundcloud.com/jasonkruk/smokes-lets-go-radio-01">Smokes, Let's Go! Radio - 01</a> by <a href="http://soundcloud.com/jasonkruk">jasonkruk</a> </div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-34685290965260749052011-07-20T17:05:00.000-07:002011-07-21T12:50:18.449-07:00Rome Black and Whites<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I am by no means a photographer... I simply take pictures. Here are some shots from my Roman holiday. It felt very natural to shoot in black and white. I simply cannot wait to go back.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQiDJX6YaNViQwLi9LQ8O8A6TykdO743orPkfdsfoXWTas6w4TNlqC856VPDZWD9QJ1U9_nGk2JbxJasI3vreIC4VXZH-0gIXs-dvfcWntSqyOfBi7NRzKzt0O73iyoBu_05QCg/s1600/P1010158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQiDJX6YaNViQwLi9LQ8O8A6TykdO743orPkfdsfoXWTas6w4TNlqC856VPDZWD9QJ1U9_nGk2JbxJasI3vreIC4VXZH-0gIXs-dvfcWntSqyOfBi7NRzKzt0O73iyoBu_05QCg/s320/P1010158.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Pantheon. The world's finest concrete-work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2Nif8QvRWky-_klyUh5D5qn4CsF3nF8R9ka8ea6tWMvM-UyyHW1dF-7A3kS_0OkoX4JzLjh852OFyGHuH5hMIyZpZV7EyGKTMGvzelkmhY_IbC4ljSZ2tdNENzLoZlOEdfdndQ/s1600/P1010176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2Nif8QvRWky-_klyUh5D5qn4CsF3nF8R9ka8ea6tWMvM-UyyHW1dF-7A3kS_0OkoX4JzLjh852OFyGHuH5hMIyZpZV7EyGKTMGvzelkmhY_IbC4ljSZ2tdNENzLoZlOEdfdndQ/s320/P1010176.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical Roman scene: falso statues next to fashion photo shoots.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCtQiWWeRBD1K996p5bGRVX8rVCvjMnHqgCcAEhGglraszSpkHcBA8lhz6bAYkPKwHK55iOZYtBWiifTduYFKRma2SWaEQ8PUUITQUqRf8ZPW-zT75nySd6EDkq6WK6eDAKgOKvA/s1600/P1010198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCtQiWWeRBD1K996p5bGRVX8rVCvjMnHqgCcAEhGglraszSpkHcBA8lhz6bAYkPKwHK55iOZYtBWiifTduYFKRma2SWaEQ8PUUITQUqRf8ZPW-zT75nySd6EDkq6WK6eDAKgOKvA/s320/P1010198.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A juggling nun. This sister was off the hook.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsGoJwnJPcq0wsIbPGQPJavchjtqM-zXwbipU_oGJKA1lrUXvib2-ZKWzdk6N749NZjDS22YKuPujrX73nnstnkQZYmtZwOZXUMCVhYHQOikL_2zf-ZPOoiiy4ev1XsB7Z2B9R6Q/s1600/P1010204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsGoJwnJPcq0wsIbPGQPJavchjtqM-zXwbipU_oGJKA1lrUXvib2-ZKWzdk6N749NZjDS22YKuPujrX73nnstnkQZYmtZwOZXUMCVhYHQOikL_2zf-ZPOoiiy4ev1XsB7Z2B9R6Q/s320/P1010204.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They call this <i>al fresco.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghr_g_Nf0DN4yyZvIivbwzjDJUo9DwY5GTuxiFOqboNPZTh4TS-4-b9j9n6uNHeC9AhPkurfHxWhybOvFBZZ78QfaxRX7K6rjBXsppbBb-P5unqxK0W_1QUknKfE-OxXnIROKENw/s1600/P1010261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghr_g_Nf0DN4yyZvIivbwzjDJUo9DwY5GTuxiFOqboNPZTh4TS-4-b9j9n6uNHeC9AhPkurfHxWhybOvFBZZ78QfaxRX7K6rjBXsppbBb-P5unqxK0W_1QUknKfE-OxXnIROKENw/s320/P1010261.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stilettos and scooters.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGsLT0GIS_oUl_0ExkruC74bojh38bo9pNGP3p1QvjrV1-eYww5ICxIJpd2nZBsgiof07EzsXMq6TO26JR1oDTkl2ABLrLV0HK7S28uYhOU3ZacZZM_Uhe9FlqPeKYWDNeCLnQA/s1600/P1010319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGsLT0GIS_oUl_0ExkruC74bojh38bo9pNGP3p1QvjrV1-eYww5ICxIJpd2nZBsgiof07EzsXMq6TO26JR1oDTkl2ABLrLV0HK7S28uYhOU3ZacZZM_Uhe9FlqPeKYWDNeCLnQA/s320/P1010319.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fireworks to celebrate Italian sovereignty.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvMW-h2so9Ye-nVtO_VtjzY_M15LyPp2sX_8LRuYtYTvd8sOh35cqsSaNmVScK7B1cOO6Jm0XCbr4jgUV44QZuzq1ANDgqBZGh4c2AReKym2mEtAXtYvp_884esqVmbOMxjnSYGA/s1600/P1010346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvMW-h2so9Ye-nVtO_VtjzY_M15LyPp2sX_8LRuYtYTvd8sOh35cqsSaNmVScK7B1cOO6Jm0XCbr4jgUV44QZuzq1ANDgqBZGh4c2AReKym2mEtAXtYvp_884esqVmbOMxjnSYGA/s320/P1010346.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The show contrasted well with the ancient backdrop. In this case, the Castel Sant'Angelo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWv-EAi9p-0VLjHywLqTonqGzi6ST40Q4WBNxpmk9fEQ79dnJZPXABiFTEfvWlx6HxXSIr7k9xA8Whunrkd_dIF_9ksQ1NSQCjK-PdHfwC0jIG5Pldp3lH6C1WFU8N2CSUUORvA/s1600/P1030034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWv-EAi9p-0VLjHywLqTonqGzi6ST40Q4WBNxpmk9fEQ79dnJZPXABiFTEfvWlx6HxXSIr7k9xA8Whunrkd_dIF_9ksQ1NSQCjK-PdHfwC0jIG5Pldp3lH6C1WFU8N2CSUUORvA/s320/P1030034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not Rome, A Tuscan village scene.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYPNpoTt-X06C8LjyMNmSfwbFjcT6ErXbmOYsKbR7kzjgB3A6cKQ15E9KBR6akUN-pTdFJf71xYTX-Z1en-MzU-fmmRVMBw1xDi0u2mlnK3WzEMNUVX4O1tcIrNtZS91eyvT0rg/s1600/P1020032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYPNpoTt-X06C8LjyMNmSfwbFjcT6ErXbmOYsKbR7kzjgB3A6cKQ15E9KBR6akUN-pTdFJf71xYTX-Z1en-MzU-fmmRVMBw1xDi0u2mlnK3WzEMNUVX4O1tcIrNtZS91eyvT0rg/s320/P1020032.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JP and some newlyweds.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yu2H65FeNjZrZ7UWZO0s5sRysbehEhVDyov7yEqdmLovG9WSQeIxJr9qCWftyvJqiKHrpKg5T_2STQoxvxNw6rpBoFNACBycNjzVubupCYgU3KRnqk5kA0oQs8K0HKTR4wbBvQ/s1600/P1020033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yu2H65FeNjZrZ7UWZO0s5sRysbehEhVDyov7yEqdmLovG9WSQeIxJr9qCWftyvJqiKHrpKg5T_2STQoxvxNw6rpBoFNACBycNjzVubupCYgU3KRnqk5kA0oQs8K0HKTR4wbBvQ/s320/P1020033.jpg" width="160" /></a></div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-85742075375287618042011-07-19T23:19:00.000-07:002011-07-19T23:20:59.102-07:00Alpine Interlude - The UK and Italy<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So.. A trip between trips:</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A short but oh so sweet trip to Italy and the rainy island to play tourist. Pics in no particular order:</div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZVWsh0zO3hOPBIIXtLal1HNEsxKnzU1mYxdpuRz2k2FA0nYgspDBNGjRtE9-rIsx3nsmUdmu1l7pzSQ4RtCeLVWusbMbjdjodGmTv-17we7V9W0vqvTrGlLjnbVF_HYmwWuY8Q/s1600/P1030143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZVWsh0zO3hOPBIIXtLal1HNEsxKnzU1mYxdpuRz2k2FA0nYgspDBNGjRtE9-rIsx3nsmUdmu1l7pzSQ4RtCeLVWusbMbjdjodGmTv-17we7V9W0vqvTrGlLjnbVF_HYmwWuY8Q/s320/P1030143.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in Tuscany... La dolce vita.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8S9_0FOcvbcp_PpcA1l1Zwog5mSXNPGaE9BjGmWe8Xmjz0WXLswXMAnI6TBlfZrs9WEAeJYQPO6HydcHQauPUknQRVZxvZR1Y2WsjJvwLupUGTKzsnBXP6gs7zod6y1Wb_F0iTQ/s1600/IMG_1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8S9_0FOcvbcp_PpcA1l1Zwog5mSXNPGaE9BjGmWe8Xmjz0WXLswXMAnI6TBlfZrs9WEAeJYQPO6HydcHQauPUknQRVZxvZR1Y2WsjJvwLupUGTKzsnBXP6gs7zod6y1Wb_F0iTQ/s320/IMG_1018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lowgate Farm in the rainy UK.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtjoYqy16e9be2tGvjdjyEKFewTLFWZi_0XVdQdxyg0PjcYe6ukGMy-tupRYsUV4kDKk_MHEowP3psoreaBVPiHt7x2Ij-zSIqzHjjB78D433RzANEvm3UxGNk-sZC4xTpnmwZzA/s1600/IMG_1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtjoYqy16e9be2tGvjdjyEKFewTLFWZi_0XVdQdxyg0PjcYe6ukGMy-tupRYsUV4kDKk_MHEowP3psoreaBVPiHt7x2Ij-zSIqzHjjB78D433RzANEvm3UxGNk-sZC4xTpnmwZzA/s320/IMG_1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some things about the island are strange.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMBjw62oTh9Uqbtz2aBP8w3lw7ZsClmc4S8-nd0uY9m3TGAW-pSArGl4fv0unTpzRad05_CUiNN8NUddUGphd0-MJLtPzMh-yUasQeAIEefOALMLK381TQYAJL34k7pU2opjHSEw/s1600/IMG_1032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMBjw62oTh9Uqbtz2aBP8w3lw7ZsClmc4S8-nd0uY9m3TGAW-pSArGl4fv0unTpzRad05_CUiNN8NUddUGphd0-MJLtPzMh-yUasQeAIEefOALMLK381TQYAJL34k7pU2opjHSEw/s320/IMG_1032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Stratford Swan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen2xlvbRq1rQnzgtN9OTNoIfhs-7fo8lOZUQaZ_nmNQH1ajFVPZRuJEPyHYXFkit00aHNU6MhdeVEVCfr_XaLKFttI97Pds2t60VsHA0YZfD4dbAiHehL4cF4O4ejp67etGEFXg/s1600/IMG_1039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen2xlvbRq1rQnzgtN9OTNoIfhs-7fo8lOZUQaZ_nmNQH1ajFVPZRuJEPyHYXFkit00aHNU6MhdeVEVCfr_XaLKFttI97Pds2t60VsHA0YZfD4dbAiHehL4cF4O4ejp67etGEFXg/s320/IMG_1039.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A classic streetside volume.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfik6TlH1r7rlume990ceVVcRGASHAhDJe4B4YsT05Ur89Y4FLcsaAZiOzcRYY0U_3ODPzyt3f2wy2JXICTnJyCMXJVzi8q6xyg4SeSGhZaPdDXUItU2qkhRnFovSvhn_0hI_IsA/s1600/IMG_1041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfik6TlH1r7rlume990ceVVcRGASHAhDJe4B4YsT05Ur89Y4FLcsaAZiOzcRYY0U_3ODPzyt3f2wy2JXICTnJyCMXJVzi8q6xyg4SeSGhZaPdDXUItU2qkhRnFovSvhn_0hI_IsA/s320/IMG_1041.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was fast food in Italy. I am in love with this country.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8q4Fnvf_OpZrqcdb8orzGF-KShS_qGHvZrYdw_HO2BioHV0LzopNFJlqaXZ-76fMFv6Nv6AAHRXPn3bQSfJCMGh2inVj9nQpv7ELRyVKsah9DCQgRd-q0oy-vvP64S0Z8OKNJ8g/s1600/IMG_1065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8q4Fnvf_OpZrqcdb8orzGF-KShS_qGHvZrYdw_HO2BioHV0LzopNFJlqaXZ-76fMFv6Nv6AAHRXPn3bQSfJCMGh2inVj9nQpv7ELRyVKsah9DCQgRd-q0oy-vvP64S0Z8OKNJ8g/s320/IMG_1065.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuscan wines are some of my favourites. Brunellos, Borollos, and all fine vintages of the Sangiovese grape.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuf84_x0-uI3aUjWpD3mJjT1867D4bs3B3kSVy6ZNkOwaWr27AEj3sdEpNXffgDJxB0kt6JwUpXT9eZViLeLVStgDnMaZ30UhK7jMbOE_iikprgrkUUVK1atWz1O9sEBSHbt5Eg/s1600/IMG_1052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuf84_x0-uI3aUjWpD3mJjT1867D4bs3B3kSVy6ZNkOwaWr27AEj3sdEpNXffgDJxB0kt6JwUpXT9eZViLeLVStgDnMaZ30UhK7jMbOE_iikprgrkUUVK1atWz1O9sEBSHbt5Eg/s320/IMG_1052.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a reason I like Tuscany.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZAnqJgCTAIfdSvV6hvOjj_L9N3uSvBMC3okiR7T9OOE3eePuGk5mFTKgFfMCVVkMI7cq7VM2nKdx8BnIyJ5rURzFyqd7d1aSPMUB5fW4xUzVkWVCUaVyU08ms_wCv6iGuAiO4uQ/s1600/IMG_1051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZAnqJgCTAIfdSvV6hvOjj_L9N3uSvBMC3okiR7T9OOE3eePuGk5mFTKgFfMCVVkMI7cq7VM2nKdx8BnIyJ5rURzFyqd7d1aSPMUB5fW4xUzVkWVCUaVyU08ms_wCv6iGuAiO4uQ/s320/IMG_1051.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This too...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3yMpqC5atc7_uHhUHux-dhLqJR24afPd87WdeqKuHAeED_K246BODpe-OmUC89yYlOf9PBmt4eRMyk7LxhZu3Oq159Tk8_PhTYelVwnQveanx_95Pax7TvfcWUeWucFsTgnbRw/s1600/IMG_1048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3yMpqC5atc7_uHhUHux-dhLqJR24afPd87WdeqKuHAeED_K246BODpe-OmUC89yYlOf9PBmt4eRMyk7LxhZu3Oq159Tk8_PhTYelVwnQveanx_95Pax7TvfcWUeWucFsTgnbRw/s320/IMG_1048.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Italian fast food. What is wrong with North America??</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwETlcRQs5lqV2a7IZtuBNWqt_wIw4jbopMy31qH_fUbVmnX_JNSa-GjrO6cD_HXELUXleviVKboNsdLMEnn3u8VpAj6yCfRSW6ZlVIdk-GMAiLTQlLpeLyKESA2fSbQ0_Xaiw_w/s1600/IMG_1067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwETlcRQs5lqV2a7IZtuBNWqt_wIw4jbopMy31qH_fUbVmnX_JNSa-GjrO6cD_HXELUXleviVKboNsdLMEnn3u8VpAj6yCfRSW6ZlVIdk-GMAiLTQlLpeLyKESA2fSbQ0_Xaiw_w/s320/IMG_1067.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Firenze marble-work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlVN_qRTIEet1sogYiTtxumtDtXsot8ENFt7yIekzoWYLLcW3E5hhj3DT1yCSuwMydW8zi3QiFQkrjHClTzD9DB5sDWpcYnTR4otGlaUHp871HYLG61hnxTraG7AIvXpn1NdP5g/s1600/IMG_1068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlVN_qRTIEet1sogYiTtxumtDtXsot8ENFt7yIekzoWYLLcW3E5hhj3DT1yCSuwMydW8zi3QiFQkrjHClTzD9DB5sDWpcYnTR4otGlaUHp871HYLG61hnxTraG7AIvXpn1NdP5g/s320/IMG_1068.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great t-shirt... kind of like the ones your mom bought you from Fields with a race car on them that said "Formula One".</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkduB3x7BZ8HXRrCtrVe_x3eZj2qQhAz6Uo7ctrsLnjxJW2bceEI2yk2MmDBxq-zzVvAb_1Y-IAgp2flZO-8Q41vCtl3ihZbXyFGVhMeLKQZ931qATqoYWBhpYuzBUpONl5NK3g/s1600/IMG_1069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkduB3x7BZ8HXRrCtrVe_x3eZj2qQhAz6Uo7ctrsLnjxJW2bceEI2yk2MmDBxq-zzVvAb_1Y-IAgp2flZO-8Q41vCtl3ihZbXyFGVhMeLKQZ931qATqoYWBhpYuzBUpONl5NK3g/s320/IMG_1069.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Firenze marble-work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeR6Eg2PRV5YT5mZse0L0P-RfYVXWZYG5sS1zxRO9iydpBzgYceys6cas7MpqYqW7RCzvPYnKHZqZFcg4Ex-Tac1hmOjQUxkpvAMqWVEdLh6wkv4z3DakLGN7z2-5Ulu3dtRZMw/s1600/IMG_1072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeR6Eg2PRV5YT5mZse0L0P-RfYVXWZYG5sS1zxRO9iydpBzgYceys6cas7MpqYqW7RCzvPYnKHZqZFcg4Ex-Tac1hmOjQUxkpvAMqWVEdLh6wkv4z3DakLGN7z2-5Ulu3dtRZMw/s320/IMG_1072.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love locks. You throw away the key...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig9V3t51XCjitI0echy7boxdTKXbzsyawDE2cEI1fubymfOrMsN2Qg2VV0JSKi8bkpXC1rpVDTJQ-Fd4zUfIS9ynr6pK6CjMj43ATynNoZXSf0We1SPbCK0yoD_jUFaG3vSI9x9g/s1600/IMG_1090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig9V3t51XCjitI0echy7boxdTKXbzsyawDE2cEI1fubymfOrMsN2Qg2VV0JSKi8bkpXC1rpVDTJQ-Fd4zUfIS9ynr6pK6CjMj43ATynNoZXSf0We1SPbCK0yoD_jUFaG3vSI9x9g/s320/IMG_1090.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The moon over the Castello vinyard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oJtLEfvWEvK7zrGZyKwDt-F0gz7wxrfoz-1Mu8aLcFutlEHqUttqp0i_yJZFZKiX6mGcNVMj5Ns-kF3iQQ6Zdh93TCG_XTXHzLkJfR5OtoHZzjTWEVoLi2LhKObTTXd_ISAojw/s1600/IMG_1089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oJtLEfvWEvK7zrGZyKwDt-F0gz7wxrfoz-1Mu8aLcFutlEHqUttqp0i_yJZFZKiX6mGcNVMj5Ns-kF3iQQ6Zdh93TCG_XTXHzLkJfR5OtoHZzjTWEVoLi2LhKObTTXd_ISAojw/s320/IMG_1089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wine country.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcmvuwCyN0hqh0EciwHveQCMqATbG3hzgXKE_P3cOoltuLVE3YB3TLFy7wZ9eIMxLTOoAcBL0HNiRnviBYTWa_jzt0oDhkgwgIqiRbJeOj0bzvicSzLAHRoT492Xw_03yPcDG_Q/s1600/IMG_1078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcmvuwCyN0hqh0EciwHveQCMqATbG3hzgXKE_P3cOoltuLVE3YB3TLFy7wZ9eIMxLTOoAcBL0HNiRnviBYTWa_jzt0oDhkgwgIqiRbJeOj0bzvicSzLAHRoT492Xw_03yPcDG_Q/s320/IMG_1078.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marble-work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ3pUziaWIg6nGQqYdW2n3I_MGxqWDIAREqVOCSb7MxBaSVDj68j6OMdyj0ieCSmU3HRivpnTFnR_0dl3_FNOa5MgRrzpMBGhQLAMKmweL5rr4TXrzE0HHlb2AAUs5jJkboW4DFw/s1600/IMG_1073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ3pUziaWIg6nGQqYdW2n3I_MGxqWDIAREqVOCSb7MxBaSVDj68j6OMdyj0ieCSmU3HRivpnTFnR_0dl3_FNOa5MgRrzpMBGhQLAMKmweL5rr4TXrzE0HHlb2AAUs5jJkboW4DFw/s320/IMG_1073.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gloria <3 Fran.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqz2CQxqmxv9qfKbc5NiLc24onJnKLY9Pn4xskONqY2z5_mVLTUp9AeUMcEO6n8JmaFuq8UrtGGLWJYhq7oiDIoJ1dMAW6kg7-94xxtyCJkSdff-78P8NRo31i7dqwR1lx_3chA/s1600/P1030112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqz2CQxqmxv9qfKbc5NiLc24onJnKLY9Pn4xskONqY2z5_mVLTUp9AeUMcEO6n8JmaFuq8UrtGGLWJYhq7oiDIoJ1dMAW6kg7-94xxtyCJkSdff-78P8NRo31i7dqwR1lx_3chA/s320/P1030112.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slovenian wood cask-work.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-81325610858557793232011-07-14T15:27:00.000-07:002011-07-21T16:07:10.565-07:00The North Twin<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><style>
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</style> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I had sent Hayden a link to the weather forecast along with the question: <i>How quickly can you get to Canada?</i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
We had been planning to climb together in the Canadian Rockies since the winter season down in Patagonia. Hayden really wanted to come up north and ‘get scrappy’ as he put it. From Carbondale, Colorado and only 21, Hayden Kennedy is one of the most talented all around climbers I’ve yet tied in with. He makes even me feel old. Not only is he psyched to saddle up to gonzo alpine faces, he’ll onsight your project as his warm up at the sport crag. He has become one of my favorite partners.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
The most gonzo of all the alpine faces in the Canadian Rockies is undoubtedly the 1500m North Face of North Twin. It’s big, steep, and remote. Climbed only 3 times in 36 years and by the leading alpinists of the time, tales of ascents and attempts are legendary. I convinced Hayden to come along with Jon Walsh, another of my favorite partners, for an attempt.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Barry Blanchard spoke of the horrifying, ever-present natural rockfall during his and Dave Cheesemond’s first ascent of the North Pillar. I still shudder when I think about the rock that broke Ian Welsted’s arm. He was high, so high on the headwall with Chris Brazeau, attempting a repeat of the North Pillar route. The fracture forced an unthinkable retreat, ‘an expensive and time-consuming thing to do’ according to Braz. They bailed, a feat that took them several days, leaving behind their entire rack which was ‘borrowed’ from Chris’ girlfriend at the time. I was really hoping that wasn’t going to happen to us. That’s why we were trying in the springtime instead of mid-summer. The cold temperatures and ice would hopefully hold the choss together. We would be looking for features climbable with ice tools and crampons, linking together as much ice as possible.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Our trip started well enough. On our first day Hayden, Jon and I skied the coveted NE Face off the summit of Mt. Victoria. I’d eyed this line for years, so we were stoked to poach it right away.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Our spectacular weather forecast disintegrated as quickly as it appeared. It stated snowing and raining heavily in town and didn’t stop. For two weeks it lasted, forcing Hayden and I to the gym and Grassi Lakes, the chossy local sport crag. Mostly though, we ended up at the bar. It looked like the June monsoon had come early this year. We grew restless. They closed the climbing gym for a world cup bouldering event, which further compounded our drinking problem.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Finally, a glimmer of hope arrived at the end of the extended weather forecast. Jon emailed me: he had taken both a chisel and a router to his index finger while working as a finishing carpenter. Two bad finger injuries in one day on the job; he wasn't climbing anytime soon!</span><br />
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The weather was nothing to get excited about, but it was certainly better looking than what we had seen. We packed our bags for a smaller objective, reckoning that an attempt on the Twin would be suicidal after so much snowfall. We drove north from town, our friends Andrew Wexler and Josh Lavigne breathed a sigh of relief when we vacated their couch we had been occupying.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Driving up the Icefields Parkway, Hayden and I were shocked how little snow had fallen up north. It didn't take much discussion to realize we needed to hike in and check the Twin out.</span><br />
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We woke up early from our bivy at the Athabasca trailhead and did a last-minute weather check at the Icefields Centre. It looked marginal, but we were going anyways.</span><br />
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We decided to leave the skis at the car, the snowline looked too high to warrant their use. Making good time on the 15km-or-so approach, we were rewarded with the breathtaking first glimpse of the Twin atop Whooly Shoulder. Immediately we started talking about conditions and route lines, peering through the binoculars. The Lowe-Jones? The North Pillar? I was reticent. Unwilling to commit to a plan then and there. I was reminded of Steve House's words published in <i>Alpinist </i>after his ascent with Marko Prezlj:</span><br />
<div><span style="font-size: small;"><i><br />
Learn something from our climb if you will, but you might be better off without the knowledge. I'm not advocating that you ignore the lessons of the past, but neither can you allow yourself to be chained by the weight of what happened before you. Don't limit yourself by mythologizing the past...</i></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Today might be your day. Go.</i></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;">This sentiment has become something of a mantra for me. All too often we let otherwise classic routes build in our mind to become much more than we are capable of.<i> </i>I was happier not knowing where Steve and Marko climbed, or where George and Chris went. I wanted to look at the face as if it were a virgin canvass, and simply climb what looked best.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;">As we descended into the glacial valley below, the weather worsened, forcing an impromptu bivy in the <a href="http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/index.html">Alpine Club of Canada's</a> Alberta Hut. It was slightly out of the way, and meant we would have to spend several hours approaching the face the next morning in the dark.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;">I'll let our photos tell our story, but to summarize, we climbed well over half the face our first day. Weather and conditions forced us off the headwall on day two, we managed to avoid rappelling by committing to a grand traverse off the face. We hunkered down on the Stutfield Icecap in a whiteout snowstorm, spending a second night spooning before making the long journey back to the road and our car.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;">The climbing was continuously very steep and difficult and occasionally very dangerous. The ice on the face was almost all too rotten for ice climbing. I completed the hardest lead yet of my career in the mountains, a real breakthrough for me to be able to lead both physically and mentally difficult climbing in complete control.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">In reality, our chance at success was very slim considering the brief weather window and the poor mixed conditions, but I sure glad we gave it a real go. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;">I had the best time up on a wild face with a great friend, completely alone in the pursuit of adventure. I can't wait to go back!</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtWA-VQwbSQoPsALO-OQuTFGuZDKjY4Hh5gnxvXZ_OZL8BBL1lykbbbMKpEKk5QJNKQFugcSh_SofJfnJKD91mBqEPQCwovvt6T1rm9Y5XddGHSMKZxI6GQ6Om7v7T6PgZ42knQ/s1600/North_Twin_big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtWA-VQwbSQoPsALO-OQuTFGuZDKjY4Hh5gnxvXZ_OZL8BBL1lykbbbMKpEKk5QJNKQFugcSh_SofJfnJKD91mBqEPQCwovvt6T1rm9Y5XddGHSMKZxI6GQ6Om7v7T6PgZ42knQ/s320/North_Twin_big.jpg" width="292" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The North Face of North Twin, our attempt in green. 1: Lowe-Jones 2: House-Prezlj 3: Cheesmond-Blanchard<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqmenNAND9aEfVzW1D3SclpL028BQkrPiFoMBebN5iEb62ii1mqhIJOS4iH35mfIPF2HzyJckIwOXf370_6xPtfS-6yCoCbHyCoo5dhyphenhyphenRvHJbAS7R0ouE7aqs2VpYFDCjcloTsA/s1600/IMG_1158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqmenNAND9aEfVzW1D3SclpL028BQkrPiFoMBebN5iEb62ii1mqhIJOS4iH35mfIPF2HzyJckIwOXf370_6xPtfS-6yCoCbHyCoo5dhyphenhyphenRvHJbAS7R0ouE7aqs2VpYFDCjcloTsA/s320/IMG_1158.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our first glimpse of the face on Whooly Shoulder. HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Xjwg5Jh5i9SfmruHo_yJJKyj7CsLR5TGJYE5KLrUb87pIbhp8Rpq52S821ya-4WF3-g3Fuu5rNmmNi_iC6ZpRIuPu-V8NKmwjSEOO_7VtvBGDeB4fvIJIkFt4T77hyphenhyphenf0-9dcOA/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Xjwg5Jh5i9SfmruHo_yJJKyj7CsLR5TGJYE5KLrUb87pIbhp8Rpq52S821ya-4WF3-g3Fuu5rNmmNi_iC6ZpRIuPu-V8NKmwjSEOO_7VtvBGDeB4fvIJIkFt4T77hyphenhyphenf0-9dcOA/s320/HK_NorthTwin_14.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Early morning below the Twin. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RcH_7O_JDhPefKcqr6rjIcRItY7E0tkPJDIYdWMxjXyqi7kfsMFpTedel67HqWBqVJ5P83bOgJEGggr3KalTw2EH1P2PcPg-c0nsXsgECNxhyphenhyphengqdnVXxO1tZyFZIhaqp3jgboQ/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6RcH_7O_JDhPefKcqr6rjIcRItY7E0tkPJDIYdWMxjXyqi7kfsMFpTedel67HqWBqVJ5P83bOgJEGggr3KalTw2EH1P2PcPg-c0nsXsgECNxhyphenhyphengqdnVXxO1tZyFZIhaqp3jgboQ/s320/HK_NorthTwin_13.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hayden approaches the Twin. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFsNaWlvO6CrlXL24uOSi-BFLz8GzDNOqay-YCpa-9Zl64_dYi92qUi5dKLEqZjF_sed7k8Gzz_XEFntlSGSaER2WmU5kCGl2ppqP0-DPpz8XqE__6eA2twW-wSVdv5cI8WRQDMQ/s1600/IMG_1183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFsNaWlvO6CrlXL24uOSi-BFLz8GzDNOqay-YCpa-9Zl64_dYi92qUi5dKLEqZjF_sed7k8Gzz_XEFntlSGSaER2WmU5kCGl2ppqP0-DPpz8XqE__6eA2twW-wSVdv5cI8WRQDMQ/s320/IMG_1183.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jason leads the first pitch: steep de-laminating ice and poor pro - much better than coffee! HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyXScESTXkofW0LK75kw6ZtyiNTX6PTR_jXlOD6Mfj97yiaV2Gcb2Oe1BPC-N6NeZxEsSYQONPW-ktCrsBUqlQibugR3CqF0aYG2I7DH2tEKR4aPGvuwYqTLBlYM7WhYdCbfdEg/s1600/IMG_1189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyXScESTXkofW0LK75kw6ZtyiNTX6PTR_jXlOD6Mfj97yiaV2Gcb2Oe1BPC-N6NeZxEsSYQONPW-ktCrsBUqlQibugR3CqF0aYG2I7DH2tEKR4aPGvuwYqTLBlYM7WhYdCbfdEg/s320/IMG_1189.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jason on the mental crux: overhanging M7+ with no pro. The only time I've taken off my backpack mid-pitch and continued without it. HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAFjiwED9hvuHBSUsQ9qgE8AkEz3_sVTB-xj38obNKXX65Ti8mUt25L2qvR1a8I33cPTUYJLAugfBLfzQQsk6ybOHNNpCSnawgg6xgp_wMdmsaIw7KZ_UxEr8WbLnrzZXJtS9gw/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAFjiwED9hvuHBSUsQ9qgE8AkEz3_sVTB-xj38obNKXX65Ti8mUt25L2qvR1a8I33cPTUYJLAugfBLfzQQsk6ybOHNNpCSnawgg6xgp_wMdmsaIw7KZ_UxEr8WbLnrzZXJtS9gw/s320/HK_NorthTwin_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hayden leads quality alpine 5.10. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAc0eqgt6xIQasKuYONkVK6jpewZew8I0bPt0rd2RGs7EHGw469GP62ghcL3prtwN_udjmC7FKpR6iXED_332nT2nA8-PCuMCT7M8YMkrsMVK_xtdNJzGbwk-zvI43jlzdUtEyg/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAc0eqgt6xIQasKuYONkVK6jpewZew8I0bPt0rd2RGs7EHGw469GP62ghcL3prtwN_udjmC7FKpR6iXED_332nT2nA8-PCuMCT7M8YMkrsMVK_xtdNJzGbwk-zvI43jlzdUtEyg/s320/HK_NorthTwin_09.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Good rock, good climbing. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYY4n51kw61LFztbOdwZyUY7lWd1Fpn4eMoK0Hb602mn81AzrCjHLWkiFUwDWRtI5OBCsojfoaufcYVl6uGpBd5gF6mIf-__kZ0JxMOs9NeT2akdJo_AQQfBZYKGMf8rIgP-uB8Q/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYY4n51kw61LFztbOdwZyUY7lWd1Fpn4eMoK0Hb602mn81AzrCjHLWkiFUwDWRtI5OBCsojfoaufcYVl6uGpBd5gF6mIf-__kZ0JxMOs9NeT2akdJo_AQQfBZYKGMf8rIgP-uB8Q/s320/HK_NorthTwin_08.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hayden leads rotten ice. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12qxNAhqC-MWCcpu8rc-XreVpIrxzkWrO6SUmzaLqtlKiOhYyfbrWMRHF8QqSmn8uADlY_ezcBCBb3phCpwJP7J0k3wL3iB1qbAwXgiaFcniqCJZRo_NuOwOCz1NqmLqiT8Rk2g/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12qxNAhqC-MWCcpu8rc-XreVpIrxzkWrO6SUmzaLqtlKiOhYyfbrWMRHF8QqSmn8uADlY_ezcBCBb3phCpwJP7J0k3wL3iB1qbAwXgiaFcniqCJZRo_NuOwOCz1NqmLqiT8Rk2g/s320/HK_NorthTwin_06.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Steep and rotten. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDUWSw3BaVsIdZTGy07S3PTEnTfYHO7WTxYM6vk7-2yLZOYHoSb6n7Gf2qhrHvKtMAIwzzYizYzhNOMFTFAqF0QSBs-RDzW1bFB1ZNgjfVSnRT67p1ZdS64ojXAt2i9KKhbi9qA/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDUWSw3BaVsIdZTGy07S3PTEnTfYHO7WTxYM6vk7-2yLZOYHoSb6n7Gf2qhrHvKtMAIwzzYizYzhNOMFTFAqF0QSBs-RDzW1bFB1ZNgjfVSnRT67p1ZdS64ojXAt2i9KKhbi9qA/s320/HK_NorthTwin_05.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hayden traverses to start a crux pitch high on our first day. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCje0q1qe2WPAa0sihBI-aTpb8NkIdzMnoPXGqPAD0m_p2Pi3kv-VglJgqDuMRBmPhmKWKpUtipjpY6Y-s7BCWakJNCtfbJ-xJQPJUdca25mzEFPj98T5JRjilfjrd14TeDNulRw/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCje0q1qe2WPAa0sihBI-aTpb8NkIdzMnoPXGqPAD0m_p2Pi3kv-VglJgqDuMRBmPhmKWKpUtipjpY6Y-s7BCWakJNCtfbJ-xJQPJUdca25mzEFPj98T5JRjilfjrd14TeDNulRw/s320/HK_NorthTwin_04.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Amazing steep and hard mixed climbing on good rock. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7dxOn_TmOWPXQFfiYR6UtvWfN1ZTQiz7kVdvsIQwpAZoGqW1SBE_NCM7Zq3PXqM17LUpQ2tJ_G_NEBOdnx0Ijxw9VGNuyuIgL9nF921LXIcpm1G92vhbqbjIiR86JxbDWclM7Q/s320/IMG_1195.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Negotiating a 'schrund on the upper face. HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5XUDibivP4DMKOdZW2Rkc5Si5PNXUZCRYPxFwUVBEKSD8SXLF776tjw1xeryMV1J4DeCnLLviqDFj6vldyn2fkzONfYVh4PWlCjsf9ruJKZgrQ8oLf3qqjYtQ1cymg2HDsb0Qw/s1600/6a00d8341d07fd53ef01538f5dae2a970b-800wi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5XUDibivP4DMKOdZW2Rkc5Si5PNXUZCRYPxFwUVBEKSD8SXLF776tjw1xeryMV1J4DeCnLLviqDFj6vldyn2fkzONfYVh4PWlCjsf9ruJKZgrQ8oLf3qqjYtQ1cymg2HDsb0Qw/s320/6a00d8341d07fd53ef01538f5dae2a970b-800wi.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another crux drytool pitch. My quote near the top: "this could end poorly, Hayden"... It ended well. HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5w87jatsrheXFnqdwyI5i2FLeDUccHr-ygO-684fbMF1N7PlQz1XXSikB7cCTdwUxcQKlLuCqVjfX14hxcSQ12VEFpRwSdxEhtpEcOvZ_aOti87SceLIVFebuNnph9IjaCY1hZg/s1600/IMG_1226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5w87jatsrheXFnqdwyI5i2FLeDUccHr-ygO-684fbMF1N7PlQz1XXSikB7cCTdwUxcQKlLuCqVjfX14hxcSQ12VEFpRwSdxEhtpEcOvZ_aOti87SceLIVFebuNnph9IjaCY1hZg/s320/IMG_1226.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our massive traverse off the face - the hardest snow climbing I've done! HK photo</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMWkQCoY0YMBbkyEvYWV7SJrVTlUObEY2bJ6qM8E1iLVNdPggHZWQxb9YYS15tsqb24f02pjoDABsjDBsg3ErSQFmsNo1EJ5UEVMP9Z0HvE4ZvWNNDMXGT7xo64-SFQlf_RFIyDQ/s1600/IMG_1241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMWkQCoY0YMBbkyEvYWV7SJrVTlUObEY2bJ6qM8E1iLVNdPggHZWQxb9YYS15tsqb24f02pjoDABsjDBsg3ErSQFmsNo1EJ5UEVMP9Z0HvE4ZvWNNDMXGT7xo64-SFQlf_RFIyDQ/s320/IMG_1241.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Moderate trench-foot. HK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8ZataZgLjN-c8hocULjyIJiGYV9BxkbSux8Fb514vS_q1oqfw5wO0xdZfZfmrad0u7ENY-4hN-reNTaM2uVlTsI7bPaejoawErwI7EEFWYG498eJlIyu1gVDoCg7fE13ZW7iJA/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8ZataZgLjN-c8hocULjyIJiGYV9BxkbSux8Fb514vS_q1oqfw5wO0xdZfZfmrad0u7ENY-4hN-reNTaM2uVlTsI7bPaejoawErwI7EEFWYG498eJlIyu1gVDoCg7fE13ZW7iJA/s320/HK_NorthTwin_15.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">HK the morning after our horrendous night on the Stutfield glacier. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKI4nWqbVOpwT4N42DHBIL1ZafKroq6ry7FglpgsmakphcBgJ6jrQcNlz7gonf0dp6fLn8QxCAv38XADu0hYI4AL6VaP1gzU5zJba6WjYWTtERaiwHEhmhU5mkLbEgucPyKQRiMA/s1600/HK_NorthTwin_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKI4nWqbVOpwT4N42DHBIL1ZafKroq6ry7FglpgsmakphcBgJ6jrQcNlz7gonf0dp6fLn8QxCAv38XADu0hYI4AL6VaP1gzU5zJba6WjYWTtERaiwHEhmhU5mkLbEgucPyKQRiMA/s320/HK_NorthTwin_16.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hayden adjusting to reality in Lake Louise. It would take a few days of inner contemplation before either of us could function like normal human beings. JK photo.</span></td></tr>
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</span></div></div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-36889859610521789582011-06-29T09:05:00.000-07:002011-06-29T14:57:58.149-07:00Rockies Steeps<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span id="goog_2071539520">Hayden and I showed up in the Rockies and poached the East (or is it NE) Face of Mt. Victoria on our very first day with Jon Walsh. Not a bad way to start a trip... </span></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqaS8EboFFYBU60uvq-jwejdYoqVUN4Rg7qqKUA8YBZEUvVBoXzxEGsx2t3MSCAcATjJ_fopyKmWMLiFpQwFf997phMKcTDF7rmFrUdp3qk3ItLv500M8aMz716RfLnyb_qlgJw/s1600/lake+louise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqaS8EboFFYBU60uvq-jwejdYoqVUN4Rg7qqKUA8YBZEUvVBoXzxEGsx2t3MSCAcATjJ_fopyKmWMLiFpQwFf997phMKcTDF7rmFrUdp3qk3ItLv500M8aMz716RfLnyb_qlgJw/s400/lake+louise.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pic I stole via Google. The Chateau, Lake Louise, and Mt. Victoria. We skied off the tippy top...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcGnN5R47yTar_Cz7FiCI0mhVYsLZIrrnvMuPHtBjdCzsWQVztqK_-DhzjsLVdUcPidRH5XmxfZTqgwrqksTnac9KXbmuNR85vYO1d46DwzgeegWLpOj8xe4zvJJrFIhimPXy-BQ/s1600/P1000661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcGnN5R47yTar_Cz7FiCI0mhVYsLZIrrnvMuPHtBjdCzsWQVztqK_-DhzjsLVdUcPidRH5XmxfZTqgwrqksTnac9KXbmuNR85vYO1d46DwzgeegWLpOj8xe4zvJJrFIhimPXy-BQ/s400/P1000661.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hayden and the Moon.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGK2HSST2KsEL2Ylj2Fo3aUcPymBOOlPW_GrDQ90Rv_OGKPxEEFN2t-vgQKO6yK26cOoKdeS2FIUW2ip7jAqwgIcZ84otUmYsVEfVfXQWdgzISNNrf0iqEHAAScCw6f2rSvmlhQ/s1600/P1000717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGK2HSST2KsEL2Ylj2Fo3aUcPymBOOlPW_GrDQ90Rv_OGKPxEEFN2t-vgQKO6yK26cOoKdeS2FIUW2ip7jAqwgIcZ84otUmYsVEfVfXQWdgzISNNrf0iqEHAAScCw6f2rSvmlhQ/s400/P1000717.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing the end of the steeps.</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span id="goog_2071539520">JR's write up and stellar photos are here:</span></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://alpinestyle.ca/2011/06/19/the_east_face_of_mt_victoria"><span id="goog_2071539520">http://alpinestyle.ca/2011/06/19/the_east_face_of_mt_victoria</span></a></div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-91594009507363605112011-06-23T13:39:00.000-07:002011-06-23T13:39:41.503-07:00More Morocco<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So, I think <i>Expedition Impossible </i>premiers today, which I am sure you are all very excited about... </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I recently tried the North Twin with my buddy Hayden. He wrote about it on the Patagonia blog here:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2011/06/getting-satisfaction-on-the-north-face-of-north-twin.html">http://www.thecleanestline.com/2011/06/getting-satisfaction-on-the-north-face-of-north-twin.html </a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Before I talk about the North Twin, let me finish off Morocco first.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">I am currently in the UK, en route to Italy. Very excited.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlud9opoGrnXoBPoRvwkKELNv3Q3CRoBHqoZYYrGDgcNtP7gnAGuGDXOTHtzmQl1FvB8eiy6gu-gb8Zr-fuSyjA95jc3c7vbZwxuAWNyqktUdZJLaT2dxHnWplYeX4HNoCh4e3w/s1600/IMG_0729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlud9opoGrnXoBPoRvwkKELNv3Q3CRoBHqoZYYrGDgcNtP7gnAGuGDXOTHtzmQl1FvB8eiy6gu-gb8Zr-fuSyjA95jc3c7vbZwxuAWNyqktUdZJLaT2dxHnWplYeX4HNoCh4e3w/s320/IMG_0729.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Essouira.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNF4IAV8-yQ-dWmScEDLAgY0OJfRLyc10i3Im16HvHCfwACdrUE_WewfqHm46iFioELtgW_OA36LPkkpJodXQPzKxS8aLokEkHuARXo9938ZIfMLnI2I39t9ohCuP0t-x0JlX9GA/s1600/IMG_0731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNF4IAV8-yQ-dWmScEDLAgY0OJfRLyc10i3Im16HvHCfwACdrUE_WewfqHm46iFioELtgW_OA36LPkkpJodXQPzKxS8aLokEkHuARXo9938ZIfMLnI2I39t9ohCuP0t-x0JlX9GA/s320/IMG_0731.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo has slack skills. I do not.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJ7lLQG0wGtnwknWjGS6W2AHqhKTUJL2rMEAac-tg_fLS7SSAbmdUlygsP-k4qg0i6GEs4dPsyP_Tq8NmL4Qt4amTNOHVAmTt9ca-zGYry6CUskZwq5srt28K7Ng7YE2CLicNaA/s1600/IMG_0738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJ7lLQG0wGtnwknWjGS6W2AHqhKTUJL2rMEAac-tg_fLS7SSAbmdUlygsP-k4qg0i6GEs4dPsyP_Tq8NmL4Qt4amTNOHVAmTt9ca-zGYry6CUskZwq5srt28K7Ng7YE2CLicNaA/s320/IMG_0738.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I call this <i>Blue Boats</i>.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsSWwP0R5mXTYRMpbcVQm8gXKWBdQuAydPsmWfgxl2DlS9kQWXffH7_4xGNuXfLCzsIP__ieD_VADgKI6p8rB3SNQN1DRRf0_xwNgvemvOxqVTKyfy_46-nSszZHW5kuotdQrTw/s1600/IMG_0742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsSWwP0R5mXTYRMpbcVQm8gXKWBdQuAydPsmWfgxl2DlS9kQWXffH7_4xGNuXfLCzsIP__ieD_VADgKI6p8rB3SNQN1DRRf0_xwNgvemvOxqVTKyfy_46-nSszZHW5kuotdQrTw/s320/IMG_0742.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moroc yallah.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfSrOyjeG69lcpi-axlgBluRUspmpXWWkO_2dlYYCH5u3ddatLx9URXHxUcsi6ikA7ozfSwU1G0sgtuFliAx0sJUlgbayPPIeb7SaZGD195MLnY63xx6Svsjbu009qD5VwBi8HA/s1600/IMG_0753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfSrOyjeG69lcpi-axlgBluRUspmpXWWkO_2dlYYCH5u3ddatLx9URXHxUcsi6ikA7ozfSwU1G0sgtuFliAx0sJUlgbayPPIeb7SaZGD195MLnY63xx6Svsjbu009qD5VwBi8HA/s320/IMG_0753.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natural enemies? Neither is very bothered by the other, I think we could learn a lot from this bird and this cat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimvy1XgoBDFeu2jnZiNGCKmq8DuRalfCvNzoBAYkCcYTozEtnlOiU7kwnZCvoNReDi80oR55SL0WmpVeuJIOOlyjFvJqzmLl-MClwmruNJIhrpdJ9gti7hnO3pgggdWRsVUhE_qw/s1600/IMG_0782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimvy1XgoBDFeu2jnZiNGCKmq8DuRalfCvNzoBAYkCcYTozEtnlOiU7kwnZCvoNReDi80oR55SL0WmpVeuJIOOlyjFvJqzmLl-MClwmruNJIhrpdJ9gti7hnO3pgggdWRsVUhE_qw/s320/IMG_0782.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Medieval fortress of Essouira. They filmed <i>Othello </i>here.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguwuMg8HsCoC6Dpkud2HporkYfFYv6GbTkbt9ehi-He2y6bra447afEiYNWAaXD1kyW9mE2xsd9ShJLfRN9ItOEv05HvIM6t3rCF5JPNPYCgHU_hdGIgG8el3XxtUtDI3yOuNIMg/s1600/IMG_0802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguwuMg8HsCoC6Dpkud2HporkYfFYv6GbTkbt9ehi-He2y6bra447afEiYNWAaXD1kyW9mE2xsd9ShJLfRN9ItOEv05HvIM6t3rCF5JPNPYCgHU_hdGIgG8el3XxtUtDI3yOuNIMg/s320/IMG_0802.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony Touch on our way to the Taghia Gorge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVov7LJu3torPZmdJgioAXcbkZCWUu8CRR_52j9UfrGAiISv6eVHuHhjaiNgk7pBlrh1KhODB3ynWqrxX9KPEvpwVGysswJwmXBPqtTLrG5gxyMgoU8OD4bcPWbmJZU20RqryL2w/s1600/IMG_0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVov7LJu3torPZmdJgioAXcbkZCWUu8CRR_52j9UfrGAiISv6eVHuHhjaiNgk7pBlrh1KhODB3ynWqrxX9KPEvpwVGysswJwmXBPqtTLrG5gxyMgoU8OD4bcPWbmJZU20RqryL2w/s320/IMG_0805.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony T on Barraka. 700m of <i>plaisir </i>7b.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3FgzLLlHTn92G0Gxdy9-WM6EouU_HwrSpr-HKGqTNjydpvMXS0cmC8duMuQTBTj9YsSHUk5kV7GgqUXCI6bupRMM9ts2kuS5IA7aeb0BDMsWPd-gnDhnlwciBQI0Au0-ZPbYanw/s1600/IMG_0807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3FgzLLlHTn92G0Gxdy9-WM6EouU_HwrSpr-HKGqTNjydpvMXS0cmC8duMuQTBTj9YsSHUk5kV7GgqUXCI6bupRMM9ts2kuS5IA7aeb0BDMsWPd-gnDhnlwciBQI0Au0-ZPbYanw/s320/IMG_0807.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jebel Oujdad towers over the village of Taghia.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmQIxUvooHZYz2aIvDlldlAxCfTZ-S-VJpCzYRsGHeO0eaJKiPsTkBiv0LPv_3WNJmhXDFXZBwkwk_gfCiD1S0NEXzLcHkL6GShCbKZSoPET83UAQeYv8yN3hLGdwCtizhQrXkA/s1600/IMG_0846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmQIxUvooHZYz2aIvDlldlAxCfTZ-S-VJpCzYRsGHeO0eaJKiPsTkBiv0LPv_3WNJmhXDFXZBwkwk_gfCiD1S0NEXzLcHkL6GShCbKZSoPET83UAQeYv8yN3hLGdwCtizhQrXkA/s320/IMG_0846.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tanning pits in Fez.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOYGlyMxliEqKJTTgRKAmA1ujQI8JHgj3kd76zyAHk9uaLwVquxEu-PugrbF5f7e1oPfr-0g6H8aelOgxTPW6oxGJ6w252yqs6ncPI7-SxGk4BFiQeVl9iP0mRh9uxnMzg_opVw/s1600/IMG_0869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOYGlyMxliEqKJTTgRKAmA1ujQI8JHgj3kd76zyAHk9uaLwVquxEu-PugrbF5f7e1oPfr-0g6H8aelOgxTPW6oxGJ6w252yqs6ncPI7-SxGk4BFiQeVl9iP0mRh9uxnMzg_opVw/s320/IMG_0869.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical roadside cafe fare.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuikiM4Q6mNmIoWdBGclbV4JzPjYCBV9ThZAUX44SJPhCRR_rgLtCMB58OmyskYvXTkwOIM9PKDEx2eSvE_CAUu8BS2jLZReg69az2zrwYKyb_5lDLbsT3wZAuSKO27QMfpHKmw/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuikiM4Q6mNmIoWdBGclbV4JzPjYCBV9ThZAUX44SJPhCRR_rgLtCMB58OmyskYvXTkwOIM9PKDEx2eSvE_CAUu8BS2jLZReg69az2zrwYKyb_5lDLbsT3wZAuSKO27QMfpHKmw/s320/IMG_0872.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ultra-cosmique town of Chefchaouen. Everything is blue.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcovdAyaUBcHlj5-eUzDEjC43yB0-0d-FilIfmYB_s3pgUjrC1RmEsu7BeB4O5OzMQnBKa_SxX41OrOTxQNnv10z-hQiEgeR2J7GmiJHUTj-5IQpT6tYBCz_Ej_vTvOxvAmaT1AQ/s1600/IMG_0898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcovdAyaUBcHlj5-eUzDEjC43yB0-0d-FilIfmYB_s3pgUjrC1RmEsu7BeB4O5OzMQnBKa_SxX41OrOTxQNnv10z-hQiEgeR2J7GmiJHUTj-5IQpT6tYBCz_Ej_vTvOxvAmaT1AQ/s320/IMG_0898.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cute German couple we met in Chef... Haha. They both like to wear Arc'teryx.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5Uaqd_39EASjefEQ8oFf9uFraYN_VVSlX7JZQdWBjqY5PoCaH-vqqZwWxwJtdRjoPuV1Q8h-ML2rKv3UWhidGSoZDR8lQAswmZFhcf-2XM-beetDLhfJZcGA36k-jelyXGlgEw/s1600/IMG_0903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5Uaqd_39EASjefEQ8oFf9uFraYN_VVSlX7JZQdWBjqY5PoCaH-vqqZwWxwJtdRjoPuV1Q8h-ML2rKv3UWhidGSoZDR8lQAswmZFhcf-2XM-beetDLhfJZcGA36k-jelyXGlgEw/s320/IMG_0903.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Berber culture is pretty cool.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00lDCUAaeXiQBJ-EUpV5159M6wSZdDuK82tyDRJdOQUjclx1dYjCof22SEtpo4P8A3nx4QSVcbexeGm89eXRpRDUwQTz9kS1So0C_fMtSQxtcuVtgQMcX9a6liBGoGRx820pGSQ/s1600/IMG_0911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00lDCUAaeXiQBJ-EUpV5159M6wSZdDuK82tyDRJdOQUjclx1dYjCof22SEtpo4P8A3nx4QSVcbexeGm89eXRpRDUwQTz9kS1So0C_fMtSQxtcuVtgQMcX9a6liBGoGRx820pGSQ/s320/IMG_0911.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chef kitty.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLTEnsV4xPA2SIcP0L3r4IPHjnBv0qblylR8hiKZT4BsaIUcg4AzBK1mJsl78gegQNEt-X_c0No6vbC7JFvqdBOeFK9a_5tsUdX_C1Os4FTjHl88BM0BnQOl7rH7tBUg2t2QP1Q/s1600/IMG_0915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLTEnsV4xPA2SIcP0L3r4IPHjnBv0qblylR8hiKZT4BsaIUcg4AzBK1mJsl78gegQNEt-X_c0No6vbC7JFvqdBOeFK9a_5tsUdX_C1Os4FTjHl88BM0BnQOl7rH7tBUg2t2QP1Q/s320/IMG_0915.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony T aka the German in Akchour. The stoke-factor is huge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhjKEtB1OpKc40I8XaNzqOT_CBVdNt-brxLbK_jt0cgMUl5s4_MZ9UgcSd1OmNTZWTin7XqFaLjsqaG2RL2qxcWibuRTJz2TySQkVvo6_qoF6xQWLUEE6sIaO4Xf0b74xGR-Hbg/s1600/IMG_0844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhjKEtB1OpKc40I8XaNzqOT_CBVdNt-brxLbK_jt0cgMUl5s4_MZ9UgcSd1OmNTZWTin7XqFaLjsqaG2RL2qxcWibuRTJz2TySQkVvo6_qoF6xQWLUEE6sIaO4Xf0b74xGR-Hbg/s320/IMG_0844.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fez medina.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9g3-ygOuBSdUGk-l2cNNT6Or73EB3xGwk2MWTcx7NPOPwrnngr0OBjwaGsXy3uufzz46NRI4A13wRx7ndwlnbFRylAf-xX-NQSAy1cSxN7mfeJQ8_PlOsYKKf1Sto06lTuuA7Q/s1600/IMG_0919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9g3-ygOuBSdUGk-l2cNNT6Or73EB3xGwk2MWTcx7NPOPwrnngr0OBjwaGsXy3uufzz46NRI4A13wRx7ndwlnbFRylAf-xX-NQSAy1cSxN7mfeJQ8_PlOsYKKf1Sto06lTuuA7Q/s320/IMG_0919.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mega wall in Akchour. 1000' overhanging tufas. Radical.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7HkcOlM19wZ7fEOhjDtesvwxJdd0Fdl7zuG5P6Lhq0oSNA_pKPP-zEnTjOm5FMZMzOb7Nnt6jVISI5UvGfsQHD3jRwGmG1pNkC2c8u1LSz4stR2dGzYVHH3eOgq6rdXOuVdFbw/s1600/IMG_0923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7HkcOlM19wZ7fEOhjDtesvwxJdd0Fdl7zuG5P6Lhq0oSNA_pKPP-zEnTjOm5FMZMzOb7Nnt6jVISI5UvGfsQHD3jRwGmG1pNkC2c8u1LSz4stR2dGzYVHH3eOgq6rdXOuVdFbw/s320/IMG_0923.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akchour is a half hour from the Med!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuA8naI2wBpaRAdq0uAUW7ddTs8zi9x7YhRV2roMmNmtQ9EdYj_XyLI-g6Sd72EKlN5Ts991lgsRb0yZDwCVDtXuapiamPXV_Ei7xTH0PuXNcw6cIZdj43cPbHXqPCKaG_zsXU8w/s1600/IMG_0940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuA8naI2wBpaRAdq0uAUW7ddTs8zi9x7YhRV2roMmNmtQ9EdYj_XyLI-g6Sd72EKlN5Ts991lgsRb0yZDwCVDtXuapiamPXV_Ei7xTH0PuXNcw6cIZdj43cPbHXqPCKaG_zsXU8w/s320/IMG_0940.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lush Akchour Valley and one of its inhabitants.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-73571971304862529732011-05-27T13:54:00.000-07:002011-05-27T23:08:50.674-07:00Morocco<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="249" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/p5VhgE9s-XU" width="400"></iframe></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I recently returned from almost two months in Morocco where I was working on a gag for American television. The show was a Mark Burnett creation called <i>Expedition Impossible</i>, the trailer is above. Normally I wouldn't watch this kind of TV, but this show will showcase the incredible beauty of Morocco, and could be well worth the watch.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I traveled extensively around the country. Wow, what a great place. The diversity of environments and the rich culture make it a must-see destination.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After the stint of work was over, Elise flew and met me in Marrakech. From there we traveled to the ocean-side surf town Essaouira so I could decompress a little.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The now famous Taghia Gorge was our next stop and it delivered the goods. We cruised classic bolted limestone routes up to 2000' long. Mostly vertical or less, these were the perfect routes to condition our arms for what was to come next. On the local 'chicken run' bus out of Zaoia Ahensale, the town at the trailhead to Taghia, we fortuitously met some Spanish climbers who told us about the Akchour Valley. They described 1000' overhanging sport climbs dripping with tufas in a lush valley a stones throw from the Mediterranean. That's all we needed to hear before making the necessary travel arrangements. We were on our way to check it out.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">On the way we spent a few days engulfed in the madness of the medieval Fez medina, a truly crazy place to go get lost. After a day in the ultra-cosmique town of Chefchaouen, we piled into a taxi and embarked on the windy roads north to Akchour.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Our low expectations were shot out of the park by what we stumbled upon: amazing walls lined the valley and Mr. Abdul welcomed us into his centrally-located gite, a cosmic place to hang out after a day of first-class limestone. With only time for a sampler of the routes, we made the most of it, exploring the different sectors and taking note of the great potential of the place.</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I highly recommend a trip to the adventurous climber looking to sample high quality Moroccan stone, and maybe add a route of your own!</div><div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitchKx6zIU5F2cCyXnc6npqKOTPXqWmGMQJGjRNaL9iDvxRBUfjG9cXvyZm4T1GRn8dfPZfe7z3a8fhoU4AothEi8Kk_1Ytz1rBZq2cG7-oDeubVrfMS2CyZVPX6KlmQKOvQdTCQ/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitchKx6zIU5F2cCyXnc6npqKOTPXqWmGMQJGjRNaL9iDvxRBUfjG9cXvyZm4T1GRn8dfPZfe7z3a8fhoU4AothEi8Kk_1Ytz1rBZq2cG7-oDeubVrfMS2CyZVPX6KlmQKOvQdTCQ/s320/IMG_0492.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skyler takes a photo of the traffic lines, which are usually ignored anyways. Casablanca.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_HJ5SxhvtK-rUqv1BD3djj0iEUZn1AXiopgUOSUUkMGkUQ2C7n7-17gIA6b45Y78A4TFGtcEzJMAhMzumva5suqdAVTGdZtsQOeTPDSL9twx9v9mENdcUOY3viIUD61ekem0-Q/s1600/IMG_0494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_HJ5SxhvtK-rUqv1BD3djj0iEUZn1AXiopgUOSUUkMGkUQ2C7n7-17gIA6b45Y78A4TFGtcEzJMAhMzumva5suqdAVTGdZtsQOeTPDSL9twx9v9mENdcUOY3viIUD61ekem0-Q/s320/IMG_0494.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony is a tired panda. Pablos feet stink.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUAzodvcbJBQCDPqIjHgt7_SGfNCkvqTTv3jNOfgtxX9Y219i_iJgzzx8E-j2vfyyeLhLAGbfjQEk8aKlXa2LEHyb4jHxiLkJmRDx89-CwXHmmXEsWdHd72k5FnbS5h4G64snfw/s1600/IMG_0499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUAzodvcbJBQCDPqIjHgt7_SGfNCkvqTTv3jNOfgtxX9Y219i_iJgzzx8E-j2vfyyeLhLAGbfjQEk8aKlXa2LEHyb4jHxiLkJmRDx89-CwXHmmXEsWdHd72k5FnbS5h4G64snfw/s320/IMG_0499.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Digs for a couple nights.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUB0ZQ7ML1Jv_HaMySPErYm3WBDxJYn0TmwTAJElwa7BIwZV3NSeQxf3kIfmfK4hsMLso-i4guK19591Q5W8dj_S_f3e4ide3kIyvqAZchVdDOmJsYONbRI6aVR2g0VPwdkEp1rw/s1600/IMG_0506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUB0ZQ7ML1Jv_HaMySPErYm3WBDxJYn0TmwTAJElwa7BIwZV3NSeQxf3kIfmfK4hsMLso-i4guK19591Q5W8dj_S_f3e4ide3kIyvqAZchVdDOmJsYONbRI6aVR2g0VPwdkEp1rw/s320/IMG_0506.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo and I enjoying a mandatory Moroccan "Land Cruiser bumper ride". One of many.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQrtP4Y2DnKzibBUh4tbPL2YPt3Z25GyUuOuFe-f9il4Dn840cFMIm8oU6cJl-6lJ7ewE0lHVzYB7eg6M4dqhyphenhyphenlEOYXrZ8EtlG3H9DJtTEpg8Z3tRSLZ-Sw11dkCO64Ha4uX_ZA/s1600/IMG_0513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQrtP4Y2DnKzibBUh4tbPL2YPt3Z25GyUuOuFe-f9il4Dn840cFMIm8oU6cJl-6lJ7ewE0lHVzYB7eg6M4dqhyphenhyphenlEOYXrZ8EtlG3H9DJtTEpg8Z3tRSLZ-Sw11dkCO64Ha4uX_ZA/s320/IMG_0513.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Voldemort is hanging out in Tinghir... Just kidding, it's J Smith.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i6koRBVsoL2bd5FIwGs68KAo4S9vungbvdf1MC7zdsqxZ9IZTSonXfqbAVtDrGdszi6eYtJQhmr2MKyPB71pxyRdwBr_XtD642_0ASsvpLJsRW0wTtTQgNya-HXuquHqwMVQEQ/s1600/IMG_0530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i6koRBVsoL2bd5FIwGs68KAo4S9vungbvdf1MC7zdsqxZ9IZTSonXfqbAVtDrGdszi6eYtJQhmr2MKyPB71pxyRdwBr_XtD642_0ASsvpLJsRW0wTtTQgNya-HXuquHqwMVQEQ/s400/IMG_0530.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abraheim and I chilling in the Todra Gorge. A pure soul.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nrYr9rCz6Z0M1fB_ddhtmiT7_rbtUDmfaHpHEmIrpIyQ4JrLJB2_MshWAu_srD4kJ2bWkk-nE-CBFnR2FUANZDC8rfR-7ph0qq39vMwAFZAS6RzaH5RgS-Xcy1eC3YH7gu6W0g/s1600/IMG_0534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nrYr9rCz6Z0M1fB_ddhtmiT7_rbtUDmfaHpHEmIrpIyQ4JrLJB2_MshWAu_srD4kJ2bWkk-nE-CBFnR2FUANZDC8rfR-7ph0qq39vMwAFZAS6RzaH5RgS-Xcy1eC3YH7gu6W0g/s320/IMG_0534.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo doing what he does best: consuming sketchy street meat. The sketchier, the better. It's a passion.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbqrv_REPxS9brZYto6BEErugdA0XQc8c-eKCsh9MjteSDNxyFUzCOEADigFw7Lg6EEsDxkCiu8oxFmFcZnCmEBEL9LtAWIH_AftOi96FBFRuezErCnBs62A2xG8f629kWfGI6Jg/s1600/IMG_0535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbqrv_REPxS9brZYto6BEErugdA0XQc8c-eKCsh9MjteSDNxyFUzCOEADigFw7Lg6EEsDxkCiu8oxFmFcZnCmEBEL9LtAWIH_AftOi96FBFRuezErCnBs62A2xG8f629kWfGI6Jg/s320/IMG_0535.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why isn't North America this civilized?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTqLgOcBMV_IF0gVlLmnZcofT1rBaSe7F9dXUQP8kyQxisR8MB2lAgZPRWw6NAGlSdD56OrcLR66LuReUeTolZm2wQcuoUTtITeJVD2PxXNnH87cshYTFyjzdVZdyk8dCuwf0cQ/s1600/IMG_0536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTqLgOcBMV_IF0gVlLmnZcofT1rBaSe7F9dXUQP8kyQxisR8MB2lAgZPRWw6NAGlSdD56OrcLR66LuReUeTolZm2wQcuoUTtITeJVD2PxXNnH87cshYTFyjzdVZdyk8dCuwf0cQ/s320/IMG_0536.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our hotel in the Todra Gorge. The bigwall above overhangs the place. I wondered how many times stonefall has demoed the roof...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuELoLCE_GGZmLJdkDmd6Kr9L6anwkTtO-t0ec6X3sI-j1uC-_FXk672kRaH9PmAOOwD_mJL6Kgri0e5lbB9k8zk8LKCxWYqoMV9_cr2-aXPjPQWSwNG8gUoawf2lwxqXl-3fbJw/s1600/IMG_0538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuELoLCE_GGZmLJdkDmd6Kr9L6anwkTtO-t0ec6X3sI-j1uC-_FXk672kRaH9PmAOOwD_mJL6Kgri0e5lbB9k8zk8LKCxWYqoMV9_cr2-aXPjPQWSwNG8gUoawf2lwxqXl-3fbJw/s320/IMG_0538.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Todra.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpkTgpGrrDMkAXHxfLHISWFS51TfWWwoky0g3p7nGEv-nj3xc3wbAbU5-DikXdakrV0F8RhcVm9J2vpKKDIXoS0GusGXpvtXmHHgMYV7RtTQ4LPwKZR1kHAvYiFoG2_z5LQO7oZA/s1600/IMG_0540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpkTgpGrrDMkAXHxfLHISWFS51TfWWwoky0g3p7nGEv-nj3xc3wbAbU5-DikXdakrV0F8RhcVm9J2vpKKDIXoS0GusGXpvtXmHHgMYV7RtTQ4LPwKZR1kHAvYiFoG2_z5LQO7oZA/s320/IMG_0540.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo sampling my nut sack. Almond heaven.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5vvNpL6Dnihpi7DBYcn53xHs0daMVw1QN_yTgr6MuRf_U1Ma6XPp4iQqImBfpN_K4hPfqm8gN8DRVRXCkuFHuk496LPEaACkxkvnxkGUfatn-iJaUzUBwaBMtMVb61cTpKihCA/s1600/IMG_0550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5vvNpL6Dnihpi7DBYcn53xHs0daMVw1QN_yTgr6MuRf_U1Ma6XPp4iQqImBfpN_K4hPfqm8gN8DRVRXCkuFHuk496LPEaACkxkvnxkGUfatn-iJaUzUBwaBMtMVb61cTpKihCA/s320/IMG_0550.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo and I climbed the classic moderate of the Todra. Cams were superfluous, it had been heavily retroed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmcG-I4WD9_fnYLCsN0meIo-FGgO7Fvay4lQJYbP7oqSg34QS49g594NZ9x0mapNywByumK0YWBZm0h1URmMZpumKRAYZPtZ7toNyN2dPFZet_XWuF9Kf66zO6VO5IYzhZjK9iQ/s1600/IMG_0558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmcG-I4WD9_fnYLCsN0meIo-FGgO7Fvay4lQJYbP7oqSg34QS49g594NZ9x0mapNywByumK0YWBZm0h1URmMZpumKRAYZPtZ7toNyN2dPFZet_XWuF9Kf66zO6VO5IYzhZjK9iQ/s320/IMG_0558.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I went skiing in Africa. Stoked!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFrzA0TzovFuzAyeIuqrbfszYlCvHRWiWiXI3rfbvGoM3gbTZyH7ab7Yt6S_hO0y64sX9boMGsYe-ExnkAzmQ3sI5HJlRhaP9U7hfA790jjMrFs3sPACVkcpCFrvdP73wSb2bEQ/s1600/IMG_0562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFrzA0TzovFuzAyeIuqrbfszYlCvHRWiWiXI3rfbvGoM3gbTZyH7ab7Yt6S_hO0y64sX9boMGsYe-ExnkAzmQ3sI5HJlRhaP9U7hfA790jjMrFs3sPACVkcpCFrvdP73wSb2bEQ/s320/IMG_0562.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buff and his horse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhIrueEKnY8btYdZg7jKc6eoSYHighj-VXnkzfqBK41Xq1xIAa6z2ZoB4ZVFrS-ltuDXP5kdfJGG9DAvU-7luxf4ArqD2bUvpnkn4aacMAaM4n2GOpoF7wM6s6QoN234DsskiSg/s1600/IMG_0565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhIrueEKnY8btYdZg7jKc6eoSYHighj-VXnkzfqBK41Xq1xIAa6z2ZoB4ZVFrS-ltuDXP5kdfJGG9DAvU-7luxf4ArqD2bUvpnkn4aacMAaM4n2GOpoF7wM6s6QoN234DsskiSg/s320/IMG_0565.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shredding Moroccan gnar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3QW74XNdmF83oEa7dezTcRmiv_pBr55YygdWncQeuk1x-9tJ8WiHpsA4k-LPr15U-0uSyz-96BC1jOePVYBgj9cN7IJvRHPtG2a-Xtrf3V3wFBbUz1fLOua98vAVzWwzrkpBEg/s1600/IMG_0567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3QW74XNdmF83oEa7dezTcRmiv_pBr55YygdWncQeuk1x-9tJ8WiHpsA4k-LPr15U-0uSyz-96BC1jOePVYBgj9cN7IJvRHPtG2a-Xtrf3V3wFBbUz1fLOua98vAVzWwzrkpBEg/s320/IMG_0567.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ski extrême.<span style="font-size: 14px;"><span id="IDACGDWI"></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZpPTo3SJv9RhFxi6A9d6elzgXjfk_x2dNYGtVk5ntpf1mbtOLrNTztGkBHnWSEeO9N4geiYst0i0l3ZRKChc-4huAqK8cAQg9TrwpbNuezwFvgwo7bEcAblTdd4UTiujAF998g/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZpPTo3SJv9RhFxi6A9d6elzgXjfk_x2dNYGtVk5ntpf1mbtOLrNTztGkBHnWSEeO9N4geiYst0i0l3ZRKChc-4huAqK8cAQg9TrwpbNuezwFvgwo7bEcAblTdd4UTiujAF998g/s320/IMG_0571.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My buddy Kris lent me his sticks. Thanks Kris!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpieUXIvpnIBYB1kMxaKCkBukaGDnjEdTJ0mpLogpyaC5MwNPDNrFvygUab8midTpeNYz8Wz2wjI4fKVYdVnB5URiKfssJGrDIGqzDgcbx5TP_WoPa5Ia2vrU0aIfunycVlJkvMQ/s1600/IMG_0581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpieUXIvpnIBYB1kMxaKCkBukaGDnjEdTJ0mpLogpyaC5MwNPDNrFvygUab8midTpeNYz8Wz2wjI4fKVYdVnB5URiKfssJGrDIGqzDgcbx5TP_WoPa5Ia2vrU0aIfunycVlJkvMQ/s320/IMG_0581.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The beautiful Tolkein Canyon.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ib1hifvYtC6mrT1t3IeDmxhUqAUHHoslvN76AfFab6eVPKS-qmgX_JK1u3VSNVuCbTqfMjTiuNMeFAGG0PfbjhxLo0endUgJLMHt5a_-JOxm4Omrm6_PA7OgoatYjvU7a4BxAA/s1600/IMG_0584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ib1hifvYtC6mrT1t3IeDmxhUqAUHHoslvN76AfFab6eVPKS-qmgX_JK1u3VSNVuCbTqfMjTiuNMeFAGG0PfbjhxLo0endUgJLMHt5a_-JOxm4Omrm6_PA7OgoatYjvU7a4BxAA/s320/IMG_0584.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tolkein.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMQmF4QDhfYiu3KlgkS9PwXVreWNU2n5iLvgae9Nh3A7m2PHGR4NGvV3tg6pmGJwFO-QvLigRC4nUe5gKkrdZ10HroM5PUptzMcTkLWbYfAGb0xZFD9Vv74d8q8vHvPRpcdBX_Q/s1600/IMG_0596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMQmF4QDhfYiu3KlgkS9PwXVreWNU2n5iLvgae9Nh3A7m2PHGR4NGvV3tg6pmGJwFO-QvLigRC4nUe5gKkrdZ10HroM5PUptzMcTkLWbYfAGb0xZFD9Vv74d8q8vHvPRpcdBX_Q/s320/IMG_0596.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The name of this village escapes me, but I truly enjoyed my time here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNy18rjtYGGrFxye9soR5e5syOgb-0Vi2TOe9_bUlPuMHqOBBg0dL4PlCvSJFyPnpA79FeYbbyFT4_TnsBS_Qf0pJRRtbO3gQCbShu4ev9RdULMf4nMHUBOvAaB4d0p-kWPVAZA/s1600/IMG_0608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNy18rjtYGGrFxye9soR5e5syOgb-0Vi2TOe9_bUlPuMHqOBBg0dL4PlCvSJFyPnpA79FeYbbyFT4_TnsBS_Qf0pJRRtbO3gQCbShu4ev9RdULMf4nMHUBOvAaB4d0p-kWPVAZA/s320/IMG_0608.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The village near Tolkein.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSl6kj-bzjhlKedtLWGHHjs_PYBJYTQusOnWto2X2YxHgyPLeWIDkmPyB8GG9krLfX6EaZgNILQcdg2LRhdTTexvD7-oJZUBA6HW1k4iIhBaTrwzvCbdSncE7gesOC4uHLgb1Vg/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSl6kj-bzjhlKedtLWGHHjs_PYBJYTQusOnWto2X2YxHgyPLeWIDkmPyB8GG9krLfX6EaZgNILQcdg2LRhdTTexvD7-oJZUBA6HW1k4iIhBaTrwzvCbdSncE7gesOC4uHLgb1Vg/s320/IMG_0615.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Jimmy Orava.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguSXlCqWValFuwN859fmfzyqugN3MCk8tnKGLHhk9VppZl2T619feBx6u6aXRBAhYDU4yXMuIZml_94ThA8Q7WPuKMVn7fyxpa6xAEX1VC8jlRwTgm26hIX9qeQlMDbwcmTPCvQ/s1600/IMG_0620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguSXlCqWValFuwN859fmfzyqugN3MCk8tnKGLHhk9VppZl2T619feBx6u6aXRBAhYDU4yXMuIZml_94ThA8Q7WPuKMVn7fyxpa6xAEX1VC8jlRwTgm26hIX9qeQlMDbwcmTPCvQ/s320/IMG_0620.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our friend Hassan in Ouzoud.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30QjvJV-WQ2tOTbH_nzw4ksxn6_bI_1-038xIehm2Pi8FSXXvaHzkA2Go68ez3JdvZnZfo8dzMEt1w4WQFZlqFDY5Naq3buyf_cheqxzvs0gZbEoBMYqKmFVuEu4Om7URF220SA/s1600/IMG_0636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30QjvJV-WQ2tOTbH_nzw4ksxn6_bI_1-038xIehm2Pi8FSXXvaHzkA2Go68ez3JdvZnZfo8dzMEt1w4WQFZlqFDY5Naq3buyf_cheqxzvs0gZbEoBMYqKmFVuEu4Om7URF220SA/s320/IMG_0636.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ouidane... I think...</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV9JXm35-9DulRUqqTWvgWNqdwivG9tiyfxvvrI7GE34OY60bMPKalpUsEgkwWIGj22L1A9NdmBivZYDvbVoG64QC_aokGF6CkB43rECLr6-weKxGcHweXl0PMtUc1Ntwl6IStA/s1600/IMG_0642.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV9JXm35-9DulRUqqTWvgWNqdwivG9tiyfxvvrI7GE34OY60bMPKalpUsEgkwWIGj22L1A9NdmBivZYDvbVoG64QC_aokGF6CkB43rECLr6-weKxGcHweXl0PMtUc1Ntwl6IStA/s320/IMG_0642.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony and I put up some classic sport pitches on first class Moroccan limestone.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9YmQVzjDghj5eM1KZvVDCbaYVpS2BkEp9EtBva74QJBqeVGEjdjWNjqBc8usrC_s-RWu5exscIo7pIVqs5a9rEgevZNCekPR31URCtl5ZCBSBWj_vYZrMUvWfHFk4z1Hc_eLQQ/s1600/IMG_0643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9YmQVzjDghj5eM1KZvVDCbaYVpS2BkEp9EtBva74QJBqeVGEjdjWNjqBc8usrC_s-RWu5exscIo7pIVqs5a9rEgevZNCekPR31URCtl5ZCBSBWj_vYZrMUvWfHFk4z1Hc_eLQQ/s320/IMG_0643.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Aiding and bolting the steeps is hard!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSwl_p8PiO8nhwWp6c9Yaw__SXCk16wOqCXlROwpFU5JODzsn8_tqIehhSazXLQC6jeUG_gXnU0u3JDThsjqLBO-TC5RAp6O_2zD_GDpqJW_b3WSgekFKCuZj2OZbS-KZ39YCmg/s1600/IMG_0646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSwl_p8PiO8nhwWp6c9Yaw__SXCk16wOqCXlROwpFU5JODzsn8_tqIehhSazXLQC6jeUG_gXnU0u3JDThsjqLBO-TC5RAp6O_2zD_GDpqJW_b3WSgekFKCuZj2OZbS-KZ39YCmg/s320/IMG_0646.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange and blue stone, dripping with God's Own Tufas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PROm2wxyF0FpGPHUKQ-a_UcddYiBz4airys64gzWl3KE8ABXKXy6Gcsxmsb8mhhguHiZP384MYTkiKD4lMcZOpkEMF0riWHuJKlSPLd1L392SmpLH2YpNEGy832On4T9bwqd4g/s1600/IMG_0649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PROm2wxyF0FpGPHUKQ-a_UcddYiBz4airys64gzWl3KE8ABXKXy6Gcsxmsb8mhhguHiZP384MYTkiKD4lMcZOpkEMF0riWHuJKlSPLd1L392SmpLH2YpNEGy832On4T9bwqd4g/s320/IMG_0649.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tony on "Spicy Mackerel". A reference to the sub-par lunches I was eating with Jimmy and Fish.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-rZYopJfZkBIn1URF0ZpKYqPwEJRsMl3rarR_kp7hyphenhyphenavOO8LvzPdLC4ZHRZB9AZmeAqRi9Nl9imzmGnL_ZAOmZ1tZgRfBkosS2ntFO4Cc3Maf-nhnFZqlivCS_X5sV-woYlb6w/s1600/IMG_0706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-rZYopJfZkBIn1URF0ZpKYqPwEJRsMl3rarR_kp7hyphenhyphenavOO8LvzPdLC4ZHRZB9AZmeAqRi9Nl9imzmGnL_ZAOmZ1tZgRfBkosS2ntFO4Cc3Maf-nhnFZqlivCS_X5sV-woYlb6w/s320/IMG_0706.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Rollin' in my djellaba.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-68038738029930985122011-05-23T12:31:00.000-07:002011-05-25T10:17:00.122-07:00Patagonia 2011nia Here are a few photos from various climbs and attempts during the 2010/11 season in Patagonia:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_otQ7aEbvcVlO70hvZPMjsrjKDF3aGvw8MK4n1v7Xw-xR9NTdMdPRdNstvMU_5H_hlXUTo3YEo-LdJkEaV3FUMr-ez1MiOz4cuUbtXXshpGTdfoB9RkOdWvHb4piRTbTM_GP7BQ/s1600/P1000457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_otQ7aEbvcVlO70hvZPMjsrjKDF3aGvw8MK4n1v7Xw-xR9NTdMdPRdNstvMU_5H_hlXUTo3YEo-LdJkEaV3FUMr-ez1MiOz4cuUbtXXshpGTdfoB9RkOdWvHb4piRTbTM_GP7BQ/s400/P1000457.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-75640895140374283982011-02-28T19:04:00.000-08:002011-03-01T16:51:25.080-08:00Pata-SnapsClimbing photos are generally boring, so I have chosen to upload some fun non-climbing pictures. Enjoy. Regrettably, climbing photos to follow... ;)<br />
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjC4R6zTAYXk3g-9VBaCOGjoYe6cnBFSClLdTzdMV-25QHNcejEE7tirfQp5UoRBWzjuAnjCG4bh1RoxWeXLDiWcoD-hxKWPg6pGBnNKl2eM3SSIq62fozo-XRX0_z06Uahsv5A/s320/IMG_0389.jpg" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Geisler enjoying one of many cafe express during our epic three-day, 6 airport journey to Patagonia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpEgLqVHE80auoOruemRAkmnKjsiSKGdSVHFkdE5jNIQ-6wIHxOOXrhxUpyIxOkG3orlUGCZH-n6SPN_UbtxhX3T9d2hlON-HB_YCip2eOQn91XwqX7DJCZVlaKAbUZz7_WKsHA/s1600/IMG_0390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpEgLqVHE80auoOruemRAkmnKjsiSKGdSVHFkdE5jNIQ-6wIHxOOXrhxUpyIxOkG3orlUGCZH-n6SPN_UbtxhX3T9d2hlON-HB_YCip2eOQn91XwqX7DJCZVlaKAbUZz7_WKsHA/s320/IMG_0390.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buenos Aires is a cool town, with lots of amazing buildings around every corner.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpsU6k6bjKnWXOs9kslCdNaX4jYBBqDNpbGxVBuNPGjfJKXuS0M4At3VIK30CEmfL9Lito7aFpO6gJOpc5Z0X3-852u0sEW-Gb_fMBpacYrNj32bnLapp_jGcsCZ-TST-yxe9nWw/s1600/IMG_0391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpsU6k6bjKnWXOs9kslCdNaX4jYBBqDNpbGxVBuNPGjfJKXuS0M4At3VIK30CEmfL9Lito7aFpO6gJOpc5Z0X3-852u0sEW-Gb_fMBpacYrNj32bnLapp_jGcsCZ-TST-yxe9nWw/s320/IMG_0391.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first Quilmes of the trip. A proud, refreshing national beer. Treated with disdain by many Argentines, not unlike Kokanee in Canada, it will always remain close to my heart, just like its Canadian blue-canned counterpart.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcP_mk5ydO8uNzQ13q6lsGNht5REVY0vNObTfZvNB4-yjATp71qgkPnMkt9HXPSNyjqZZDnPaE14SrFs38E9LnDr_U1jNJ6zxte_ThRw9U9fIN7YWrn-rbuNpjBSTVgCYGCFzYCA/s1600/IMG_0395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcP_mk5ydO8uNzQ13q6lsGNht5REVY0vNObTfZvNB4-yjATp71qgkPnMkt9HXPSNyjqZZDnPaE14SrFs38E9LnDr_U1jNJ6zxte_ThRw9U9fIN7YWrn-rbuNpjBSTVgCYGCFzYCA/s320/IMG_0395.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Domo Blanco makes the finest <i>helado artensenal</i> I have ever tried. Standards have risen in Patagonia, and now, the quarter-kilo is the regular indulgence. Here is Maury going all out on the full kilo. Solo, single-push. A bold send.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBL2FEgWntsz-uv2DB_m_VWNrLcIoNF3jKMfHA-mB5rcPOF2RfLxUvyHN7puv-O5uLiJGFeCDdLIUPTeIIr9hEB5u_f_kc_9VW_Hmu4PifRDg4U1dY3z7NzSNZrX3J369kTmZvw/s1600/IMG_0398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBL2FEgWntsz-uv2DB_m_VWNrLcIoNF3jKMfHA-mB5rcPOF2RfLxUvyHN7puv-O5uLiJGFeCDdLIUPTeIIr9hEB5u_f_kc_9VW_Hmu4PifRDg4U1dY3z7NzSNZrX3J369kTmZvw/s320/IMG_0398.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tango, the Del Lago mascot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc0_CDE_2sOUYWbeJa9aJcarqg7BSsVBm6tFSNZr4fUWjq5LU_X1xJF_18JVCokruihHmwnfM4JAV4xCMZVjg2m_Nk8ZuEfKlevWVDcujUbFoCA0hXb9mP95HEjaWibt7NlmCMQ/s1600/IMG_0403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc0_CDE_2sOUYWbeJa9aJcarqg7BSsVBm6tFSNZr4fUWjq5LU_X1xJF_18JVCokruihHmwnfM4JAV4xCMZVjg2m_Nk8ZuEfKlevWVDcujUbFoCA0hXb9mP95HEjaWibt7NlmCMQ/s320/IMG_0403.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G-man on the hike out from a Torre Valley gear-caching mission. Note: the Torre is the giant cloud covered popsicle in the photo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolXBCAqYyj2Moz-Kw0puMEtp4b-u2AB2a5aofVeVRLj69Cs06Gd6ocANFPttqXv3qQ399dKL2aIYmK3eEqTAPkLQ3jVtlQHsu7q6wMVUbjyodc45u8r7YBNzQ12pzZZ198Bz-Iw/s1600/IMG_0405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolXBCAqYyj2Moz-Kw0puMEtp4b-u2AB2a5aofVeVRLj69Cs06Gd6ocANFPttqXv3qQ399dKL2aIYmK3eEqTAPkLQ3jVtlQHsu7q6wMVUbjyodc45u8r7YBNzQ12pzZZ198Bz-Iw/s320/IMG_0405.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Fitz Roy massif. The (relatively) gentle giants of the range.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4VJp4VpTO1kmnFqtgDRHN4J1i9fQXCtg7w07az7vfnCX2LaGaEOfEqOmdIs5vviW2zycewDHye0dqL0uGPz8XrkbfHUtDz9iWpirpkc4OEkhGQ6VJzOAJFWvcvBINfiHIYMquJA/s1600/IMG_0407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4VJp4VpTO1kmnFqtgDRHN4J1i9fQXCtg7w07az7vfnCX2LaGaEOfEqOmdIs5vviW2zycewDHye0dqL0uGPz8XrkbfHUtDz9iWpirpkc4OEkhGQ6VJzOAJFWvcvBINfiHIYMquJA/s320/IMG_0407.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geisler. Torre icefall behind.<br><br></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP8MMofQYl5OvWHlF07nUjGRNTfBaYSFhY7zyVR-FSH8Ceka0LX6sc0zgsuR3_UBNgkmUqSu2ltVcwq2Jkw8tUJfuFYxW1zUmF419wUY2x0LymbVRgMTS6DX5JArRk-8ip8UFusg/s1600/IMG_0408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP8MMofQYl5OvWHlF07nUjGRNTfBaYSFhY7zyVR-FSH8Ceka0LX6sc0zgsuR3_UBNgkmUqSu2ltVcwq2Jkw8tUJfuFYxW1zUmF419wUY2x0LymbVRgMTS6DX5JArRk-8ip8UFusg/s320/IMG_0408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More ice trekking. It's pretty cool though, no?</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6XoGuA6R9MW3ExMZru01EB1JpquWve2yNZgMGwj-kGT4I8Rr_4T-6xx4_2ev12_cq6NxQioaVHAER8BbuctFuM8M2b1hD7ZCTUNBoAJV0f-3VLKNfTCy5PhJl9JwdAYMussu5w/s1600/IMG_0409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6XoGuA6R9MW3ExMZru01EB1JpquWve2yNZgMGwj-kGT4I8Rr_4T-6xx4_2ev12_cq6NxQioaVHAER8BbuctFuM8M2b1hD7ZCTUNBoAJV0f-3VLKNfTCy5PhJl9JwdAYMussu5w/s320/IMG_0409.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I walked over, Geisler walked under.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjY1EGvm0wudleGjn2YGWxqoF4MRcYtNYvHB9mh8Svg11pL8AoWAfScwZBBBQ-XKbs8_UdOFN7J4OEtCh6zY_PwHZ1p2ryPh6N-Yfyrt0EKxM6kGVhKIQxPXClXAiBCIkdDQW-Q/s1600/IMG_0417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjY1EGvm0wudleGjn2YGWxqoF4MRcYtNYvHB9mh8Svg11pL8AoWAfScwZBBBQ-XKbs8_UdOFN7J4OEtCh6zY_PwHZ1p2ryPh6N-Yfyrt0EKxM6kGVhKIQxPXClXAiBCIkdDQW-Q/s320/IMG_0417.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Cool forest trekking. I really like alpine climbing because it mostly involves walking, which I am way better at than climbing. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjXhgKyTWa_cPNjNSdbxJ2XHH8dCZ4EJ9oKzITcD7bAgwTN5TdfhtQr9sz8sqoFEwvtwvDwKB4_W81_cf2SeZstvFK1UByq45U996NWi-p5vKQU4y1eQdf7_sLwkxRDvOZXTvVg/s1600/IMG_0418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjXhgKyTWa_cPNjNSdbxJ2XHH8dCZ4EJ9oKzITcD7bAgwTN5TdfhtQr9sz8sqoFEwvtwvDwKB4_W81_cf2SeZstvFK1UByq45U996NWi-p5vKQU4y1eQdf7_sLwkxRDvOZXTvVg/s320/IMG_0418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Someone made these and posted them throughout town. A tad harsh, I'd say.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouc2tGyolnfUrKBk1k2ILDQwyUOYgKdDHx_H8ggs3lVZ_X2TT4RxD68hyphenhyphen07IZx0FpazTc-9t74Kzk1o6IiSxte4B0q8FBdAkcOtUNetqzAf42ebVzFc5zJiUWNfVACUmSdHNTmg/s1600/IMG_0419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouc2tGyolnfUrKBk1k2ILDQwyUOYgKdDHx_H8ggs3lVZ_X2TT4RxD68hyphenhyphen07IZx0FpazTc-9t74Kzk1o6IiSxte4B0q8FBdAkcOtUNetqzAf42ebVzFc5zJiUWNfVACUmSdHNTmg/s320/IMG_0419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Then Jon Gleason showed up. Here he is with a Penguino from 'A-wanna-kank'. Usually we fill these with vino tinto, but on this special occasion he is drinking agua.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGr7qnNdqkLN4vXf4VY5l8VeJLcMSbYxOm5pb_vbo-MWDkhUPYepSIwCWjxvFapc8r-R2TKQxXXD1yQUQWbciWipwXteu1nPP4HH4wXq_cxEvWF0fEeBw5EgGS_uqze8LTJ_LN_g/s1600/IMG_0420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGr7qnNdqkLN4vXf4VY5l8VeJLcMSbYxOm5pb_vbo-MWDkhUPYepSIwCWjxvFapc8r-R2TKQxXXD1yQUQWbciWipwXteu1nPP4HH4wXq_cxEvWF0fEeBw5EgGS_uqze8LTJ_LN_g/s320/IMG_0420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Gleason thinks a lot. This time in the Chocolateria.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16QYy3kp5yiyuFK7UBWuKr4j48SZ5uz_a-Pk9KnuqN0wtsC6F0lDUBvngZuZ45qmVmadmCAhyGsDiv11FCzP1Yktweec7GQSRy9fjRUlBJe8WiyO3vtw3najfoG6urCLPv0Xk4A/s1600/IMG_0425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16QYy3kp5yiyuFK7UBWuKr4j48SZ5uz_a-Pk9KnuqN0wtsC6F0lDUBvngZuZ45qmVmadmCAhyGsDiv11FCzP1Yktweec7GQSRy9fjRUlBJe8WiyO3vtw3najfoG6urCLPv0Xk4A/s320/IMG_0425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Geisler's bananas didn't survive the hike into basecamp. He ate them anyways. He also let his empanadas go soggy. I thought he was supposed to be experienced at this stuff...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7ySvlTiyd1Zvu-u_BrAn8AH9CbDuvPui56g8jK4lEzRlm-SXox4usuuyzCPGDmJz2DyqID6NTj0mXvbcXRoHOzHZy8jup2IqppKghvnaPNF5LBlCdQmyFEtMihiuV5WFR-v4Uw/s1600/IMG_0434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7ySvlTiyd1Zvu-u_BrAn8AH9CbDuvPui56g8jK4lEzRlm-SXox4usuuyzCPGDmJz2DyqID6NTj0mXvbcXRoHOzHZy8jup2IqppKghvnaPNF5LBlCdQmyFEtMihiuV5WFR-v4Uw/s320/IMG_0434.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Colin Haley is an empanada fanatico. If he didn't go alpine climbing all the time I'm sure he would be an obese person.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXRWY6W9DT-lTbu54pLMUqWSq1qP_5EU5kD7yQ7hOQ5-wbhopT7NrMgqJMywspmEhk07VBRtz6_4lMkyejLmvPWyyo1OxK1976jCBg7ThFzWBeccQ-sirHFZEZ5IQK0SDXq_Dfw/s1600/IMG_0435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXRWY6W9DT-lTbu54pLMUqWSq1qP_5EU5kD7yQ7hOQ5-wbhopT7NrMgqJMywspmEhk07VBRtz6_4lMkyejLmvPWyyo1OxK1976jCBg7ThFzWBeccQ-sirHFZEZ5IQK0SDXq_Dfw/s320/IMG_0435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Zack Smith is one bad ass hombre.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAsHZsKae2llOCUrma1aWbEFrLgijmylKqgSqiPvsPYrfGDNQg9G8jM0sL0jYvcbgrFpT0fMJbXp4QA86TEXh6DWN1sXXFYko4_yRLqOCMVHe0i-h6VJcr70e7CwnbYJ2P9DgVg/s1600/IMG_0437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAsHZsKae2llOCUrma1aWbEFrLgijmylKqgSqiPvsPYrfGDNQg9G8jM0sL0jYvcbgrFpT0fMJbXp4QA86TEXh6DWN1sXXFYko4_yRLqOCMVHe0i-h6VJcr70e7CwnbYJ2P9DgVg/s320/IMG_0437.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">These are some bad ass waffles.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDW-DNmfOoN8zYDWRwgq1x9yrDu4ZY4XsvBKLGeTg5M4MFF82kPMxfhazJvqldrSGPCjLQfUHSWf8A5r9WLXrhfkj22t0ixG2jUXtLTEnDGtOaVXA2v6Fs9iI8UBy9o-fFcLtzw/s1600/IMG_0440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDW-DNmfOoN8zYDWRwgq1x9yrDu4ZY4XsvBKLGeTg5M4MFF82kPMxfhazJvqldrSGPCjLQfUHSWf8A5r9WLXrhfkj22t0ixG2jUXtLTEnDGtOaVXA2v6Fs9iI8UBy9o-fFcLtzw/s320/IMG_0440.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Geisler split five fingertips before we even tried Cerro Torre. I don't think he could use his hands very well after our mission.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbs8hN2ewFYVEAPpC2E5fiZbHr9NCZai_ZmERMok1wQM4PWl9E6G7xc4LssTIO7jIWwxgXqX-vwe2uhXp09_AHHnKm10aoqWWh3gHh0DTySj0B3RpZKU7nBXPVQUbh4W5vkoeJXQ/s1600/IMG_0441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbs8hN2ewFYVEAPpC2E5fiZbHr9NCZai_ZmERMok1wQM4PWl9E6G7xc4LssTIO7jIWwxgXqX-vwe2uhXp09_AHHnKm10aoqWWh3gHh0DTySj0B3RpZKU7nBXPVQUbh4W5vkoeJXQ/s320/IMG_0441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A Josh Wharton sandwich in a gringo man shack. Coach Wharton is a model climber and human being for all. Mad respect.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhri05eTomX5J-g8Z80Ho8VBPSKVIN4Xp3xOoxfvtKLTQdWWZdVeAPTGpkeCHwTvGYOpiDQEIbeI7bHkDG3CmrjM1-nNioC92EliQsvJhP07ZFyRKVcwU4rkWa4SFJ0c_8APMdqaw/s1600/IMG_0449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhri05eTomX5J-g8Z80Ho8VBPSKVIN4Xp3xOoxfvtKLTQdWWZdVeAPTGpkeCHwTvGYOpiDQEIbeI7bHkDG3CmrjM1-nNioC92EliQsvJhP07ZFyRKVcwU4rkWa4SFJ0c_8APMdqaw/s320/IMG_0449.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Hayden turned 21!</div></td></tr>
</tbody></table>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-50385009832414309022011-02-18T09:22:00.000-08:002011-03-01T16:40:33.490-08:00Cerro Torre SE Ridge Attempt<div style="margin: 1ex;"><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8Kf63enu5Y3uBAX6-3rnKyitx8-euUU4hFKYpxg5yk7tZXGRktR5_WsQK6WshXbT1ZeWVwRXMZF4ZsZKNpsxfzmnmfmyn-qAEhZ23BtZ2z246gmX0ZJmH-Na4DZO93IuHrxQaA/s1600/g_and_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8Kf63enu5Y3uBAX6-3rnKyitx8-euUU4hFKYpxg5yk7tZXGRktR5_WsQK6WshXbT1ZeWVwRXMZF4ZsZKNpsxfzmnmfmyn-qAEhZ23BtZ2z246gmX0ZJmH-Na4DZO93IuHrxQaA/s320/g_and_t.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">Geisler and I had an epic week up in the Torre Valley. The weather looked windy but climbable. This would be our last chance as Chris had to leave in a couple days and Cerro Torre was still rimed and unclimbable. Think giant Torre popsicle. With the Torre out of condition we opted for, I think, plan C... or was that D? We were the first ones to arrive at basecamp and dug out our cache, basking in the peace and quiet, knowing that soon Niponino would be a full circus.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">We settled on trying a new route on one of the towers on the east side of the valley. It took us about 12 hours or so, maybe more, to approach the base of the route from basecamp. No jokes. About 10 or so approach pitches and tons of walking in zig-zags. Chris mostly led as I began to get really sick with the flu or some similar condition. We finally got to the base of the route and I was able to lay down in the sun for a little bit and recharge my batteries. I led a couple pitches - steeper and harder than expected - to the only ledge feature of the line. We hadn't intended on stopping, but I was sick and Geisler was feeling low energy. Our hope was that after a rest we would be able to continue the next day and top out. We open-bivied here without stove or bivy gear, super rugged. Needless to say we weren't feeling any better the next morning, so we bailed, which was just as complicated and time-consuming as the approach.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">We cashed-in our chips, it was a mostly unsuccessful trip to Patagonia. The next morning we packed up early as Geisler had to catch his bus that afternoon. We shouldered our enormous loads - I am still in disbelief as to the amount of climbing gear we hiked into the Torre Valley. On the hike out we noticed the Cerro Torre headwall had shed quite a bit in the last days of sun and we were met by reports of good weather for the next couple days. With only minutes to make the 'should we stay or should we go' decision, it was clear, we would try what we came to Patagonia to attempt. Geisler dropped his pack on the glacier and ran to town to change his ticket while I shuttled the packs back to camp. He got back to Niponino at 3:30 am after the usual frustrations of last-minute ticket changing. A 30km round trip! We were stoked to the max!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">We slept in, giving Geisler a chance to rest. He had hiked a takeout steak up from town and we devoured it, including soggy French fries and wilting salad, for breakfast. We left camp the next morning at 10:00 am for the Torre. The snow was isothermic by the time we got to it so the approach pitches of mixed climbing to the shoulder required a bit of creativity. Geisler was pretty worked after his 30km hike the night before, but at least he was able to ride the jumars for a while - albeit with the big pack. With all that we had done in the past few days we weren't exactly setting any speed records up there. I led and short-fixed as Chris followed with the larger pack and the jumars. Our friends Colin Haley and Zach Smith, who were trying the same project up the SE ridge rappelled past us, bailing. They told us it was too cold and windy and they only had lightweight sleeping bags each to bivy in. Chris and I chatted, we only had one lightweight sleeping bag to share, but we were committed and were not bailing now. We bivied just below the Salvaterra variation to the great bolt traverse the first night, I spent a long time chopping a ledge into the ice for us to sleep on. The night was cold, but luxurious compared to the horrible bivy we had two nights previous.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">I continued to lead the next day. At the ice towers Chris was getting frustrated being the pack mule on the jumars so he took over the leading. David Lama was on the Torre aid climbing up the bolts so we were being buzzed all day long by a helicopter film crew. Truly frustrating. It grew dark and we ended up climbing through the night on the headwall, very exciting. We followed the wrong feature out left and eventually dead-ended after Geisler led an 8-hour pitch of techno aid, taking one whipper when the flake he was hooking on ripped. Geisler did a lot of climbing when you were the most rad if you did the hard aid stuff. He did early repeats of El Cap terrors and established and repeated the most serious of the Squamish bigwalls. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">Our highpoint was about 40m below the top of the headwall says Pataclimb.com. (Climbing.com says 50m, I am not sure where they got their information for their newspiece). A storm started, a full whiteout turned our ropes and beards instantly frosty and the winds turned nuclear up there. We bailed quickly thanks to all the bolts.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">When we arrived, basecamp was a ghost town, we were the last tent remaining. Early the next morning Chris hiked to town to catch his bus to the airport. I slept in and hiked out that afternoon with a crippling load on my back. After running into Chris and hearing our story, Zack Smith and Hayden Kennedy hiked in with beer and empty packs to help me carry out my load. A truly brotherly gesture, but somehow we missed each other on the trail. I really could have used the medication of a litro of <i>Quilmes.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">I’ll post some photos when I leave Chalten, the internet here is shockingly slow.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">Geisler must have run into Rolo before his departure, because details of our climb ended up on his website <a href="http://pataclimb.com/" target="_blank">pataclimb.com</a>. Here’s what he had to say about it all:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><i>In February of 2011 Canadians Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk came very close to pulling off a complete "fair means" ascent of the SE ridge of Cerro Torre, reaching a point 40 meters below of the top of the headwall without using any of Maestri's bolts for progression. They followed the Salvaterra-Mabboni and Wharton-Smith lines to the headwall, then climbed the first headwall pitch right over the bolts but without using them (free at 5+), to then move right for a pitch (they aided some but estimated it would go free at 6c), later crossing left of the bolted line to reach an obvious ledge one pitch below the compressor. From here they climbed left to a point level with the compressor but about 40 meters left of it. In the early morning, after having climbed through the night and in very high winds Geisler finished his lead by traversing back right following a thin seam, to eventually make a pendulum that took him to the third bolt down from the compressor. From that point they retreat. In the darkness Geisler failed to notice features further left that likely would have allowed him to climb a completetly independent fair means line to the top. On that last pitch, which required 8 hours, Geisler placed a single bolt climbing left and one while traversing right back to the compressor. Hats off for such a great effort!!</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;">Chris is gone now, but I am still here and ready to try again!<i> </i></span></div></div>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-82235834666743107342011-01-21T16:40:00.000-08:002011-01-21T16:40:16.326-08:00David Lama to Rap Bolt Cerro TorreHere is some background:<br />
<br />
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-david-lama-compressor-bolts <br />
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10x/newswire-lama-speaks-compressor <br />
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10f/newswire-flash-bolts-cut<br />
http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/06/25/cerro-torre-david-lama-and-red-bullshit/<br />
<br />
This year Chris Geisler and I won the John Lauchlan memorial grant for an unconventional project. We are in Argentine Patagonia at the moment with hopes of climbing the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre (also know as the Compressor Route) without utilizing any of Cesare Maestri's bolts.<br />
<br />
Also planning on something similar are our friends <a href="http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/">Colin Haley</a> and Zach Smith. Naturally, there has been A LOT of talk about the SE ridge between us: comparing strategies, possible variations to the line, equipment, etc. About a week ago David Lama and a crew of mountain guides and videographers arrived with intentions of resuming their project from last year - freeing the line of the Compressor Route, with Red Bull again the sponsor of the project. <br />
<br />
The four of us as well as Rolo Garibotti have been in several dialogues with the Red Bull crew, hoping to gain some insight as to their intentions and the style in which they choose to attempt their project. We wanted to let them know of our plans so that everyone can be accommodated on the route and to ensure that our experience wouldn't be impacted by their tactics.<br />
<br />
It has come out today that Lama and crew plan to climb to the top of Cerro Torre following Maestri's bolt line, then rappel from the top and rappel-bolt the best line for free climbing. Lama claims that this is the only way in which he will be able to complete the project within the next 5 years. He also says he can take the shit storm that is sure to ensue.<br />
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I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-43465395245169023472011-01-13T19:25:00.000-08:002011-01-13T19:25:12.008-08:00Climbing, Skiing, Patagonia, and Chris GeislerWell, I am busy packing the full alpine arsenal on the floor of the humble cabin I share with my girlfriend Elise. Various Arc'teryx jackets and pants cover almost the entire extent of the floor, and cams and spiky bits of ice climbing gear threaten to poke at us if we are not careful where we step. I'm behind schedule in packing for my trip, and I will undoubtedly leave a hurricane for her to clean up in my wake... (sorry babe).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKQ9CttX7cH8X6fcDaLPc7nbXucIBVPjz09lHuFXVEsA9d-Qu7YUOWryFaqU9Gq3aO2AZsqGkHAThlBAa-lcwj_77mJwtDj_x71fbV5E92T5D0flFUmqN1SD02G79g-TLCB3D9vQ/s1600/IMG_0385.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKQ9CttX7cH8X6fcDaLPc7nbXucIBVPjz09lHuFXVEsA9d-Qu7YUOWryFaqU9Gq3aO2AZsqGkHAThlBAa-lcwj_77mJwtDj_x71fbV5E92T5D0flFUmqN1SD02G79g-TLCB3D9vQ/s320/IMG_0385.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>This year I applied for, and won, the <a href="http://www.johnlauchlanaward.com/">John Lauchlan memorial grant</a> for a trip to Patagonia with Chris Geisler. John was a legendary Canadian climber who had a global impact on the sport of alpinism. I am deeply honored to receive an award in his honor and am excited to perpetuate his spirit of adventure.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgpF8krkvRSWVpdLsbF5sRVS9e5Fi5oso3Vsi2PBRegcb2XvWX1gVuQjPIktW9MAu66J8tpTVaAVVhdTVPMkK2LDe_7BUBs8Rky4dkbjiV0-x-6oym3CNC-luxwguwCd1Czxm_g/s1600/IMG_0381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgpF8krkvRSWVpdLsbF5sRVS9e5Fi5oso3Vsi2PBRegcb2XvWX1gVuQjPIktW9MAu66J8tpTVaAVVhdTVPMkK2LDe_7BUBs8Rky4dkbjiV0-x-6oym3CNC-luxwguwCd1Czxm_g/s320/IMG_0381.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ9iQ0FQF9bJ6pD8kLStpXSv_y0zTaHKedElEHaFUFMu_AADVsTf0k9YjUTvat2c68ZutCJ9n9lYiiLtlppp_REadSpqKYXIgKIm74aJrOfJfqCp2zyl_Dd9ujXTzoJI6Wl9Bxg/s1600/IMG_0382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ9iQ0FQF9bJ6pD8kLStpXSv_y0zTaHKedElEHaFUFMu_AADVsTf0k9YjUTvat2c68ZutCJ9n9lYiiLtlppp_REadSpqKYXIgKIm74aJrOfJfqCp2zyl_Dd9ujXTzoJI6Wl9Bxg/s320/IMG_0382.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Out for a midwinter walk with Elise and Kafka the dog.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Midwinter in Squamish is feared by many residents, but I thoroughly enjoyed my short stint at a domestic life in the rain. I find Squamish is a beautiful place to live year round, only if your happiness isn't dependent on the weather. I haven't really climbed much in preparation for this trip, which is kinda how I like it. Chris and I went out for a day with Jai Condon in search of elusive coastal ice to climb. We ended up at the Suicide Bluffs just south of Pemberton, it was 0 degrees and threatening to rain.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7lcAwHc3L7b3swhgiH_IAtxudva3omfJkBxXCWiNxb2fYoBpdNMFeBLZJ4Cgbp-GnyhzLNN8sXCwR27HaUs_lbvUfE8WLuNs0FpFUQWS0ckVOtDNfVLEVE_B7wJ8iBwPz7XfQw/s1600/psycho_pillar_start_06jan11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7lcAwHc3L7b3swhgiH_IAtxudva3omfJkBxXCWiNxb2fYoBpdNMFeBLZJ4Cgbp-GnyhzLNN8sXCwR27HaUs_lbvUfE8WLuNs0FpFUQWS0ckVOtDNfVLEVE_B7wJ8iBwPz7XfQw/s320/psycho_pillar_start_06jan11.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Jia Condon photos</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5IDUV8VJJ7puoTpLZu-GNFXVs0FymOy7APd9A979tjl95KYpRr8L92cQCuWDWgi6vo_Nw5JXmrETddBhZGVCCBadaL6rmk0K60oZbIXbJDS3fUeDxIqJUtQdLUnYglOKIb9Lhw/s1600/psycho_pillar_stem_05jan11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5IDUV8VJJ7puoTpLZu-GNFXVs0FymOy7APd9A979tjl95KYpRr8L92cQCuWDWgi6vo_Nw5JXmrETddBhZGVCCBadaL6rmk0K60oZbIXbJDS3fUeDxIqJUtQdLUnYglOKIb9Lhw/s320/psycho_pillar_stem_05jan11.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Geisler stemming hard on a very wet Psycho Pillar</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The pillar was dripping wet, my Goretex was instantly wetted out. In a word: miserable. It reminded me what the very worst of coastal ice climbing feels like. It's because of this that I prefer to go skiing whenever possible. I believe ski touring to be some of the best cross-training possible for alpinism. Skiing is almost always awesomely fun, it's usually hard work, and if you are scared, at least you are having fun.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjba3DKngPtMdE2wZWWmh3atD6wLJTWOd1jvHxDmJkORlT7GUEh61C24qb2ALG1OA73Hjoo6lJ5Bue9xIaulAjR-QN2IaUaXRQHYosoQY1pIAZY-bLILaskqywbbzzipMRVnujlYg/s1600/Rohr+ridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjba3DKngPtMdE2wZWWmh3atD6wLJTWOd1jvHxDmJkORlT7GUEh61C24qb2ALG1OA73Hjoo6lJ5Bue9xIaulAjR-QN2IaUaXRQHYosoQY1pIAZY-bLILaskqywbbzzipMRVnujlYg/s320/Rohr+ridge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLtyTPN-qEfnU_l9KK0tRsr_wHzEhLbc38V-6v0zBW0C59cxKXsYAzT9PGSvB0mlGaPv_druhbJIIAkimeIZ8oi8dI-0K_V_a15Lt8DzLuVeH6-So1Bm0g7qAHZ6gitiw6EUxfQ/s1600/Rohr+lunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLtyTPN-qEfnU_l9KK0tRsr_wHzEhLbc38V-6v0zBW0C59cxKXsYAzT9PGSvB0mlGaPv_druhbJIIAkimeIZ8oi8dI-0K_V_a15Lt8DzLuVeH6-So1Bm0g7qAHZ6gitiw6EUxfQ/s320/Rohr+lunch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCy86cmtuB8ViEudKctJjzJsiX6mxLTf1zFeRtB7g3DLZ7TfF16QrnDJLBt-szGP52Na_nv9tRPNzIDBx7IB3NNHi-qaijlMR5ZFW2umwgSEx45x9CXtE611RBfHGd55fFxsJc4w/s1600/Taylor+group+of+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCy86cmtuB8ViEudKctJjzJsiX6mxLTf1zFeRtB7g3DLZ7TfF16QrnDJLBt-szGP52Na_nv9tRPNzIDBx7IB3NNHi-qaijlMR5ZFW2umwgSEx45x9CXtE611RBfHGd55fFxsJc4w/s320/Taylor+group+of+10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZ0tlJ3KnisTe4d2msTNj_HOmWBeSdUvFSF0O4H7S6Gq9YI59cKivA0wn51wzGyK27HZqNsy1jk4lGh_PKXzVRC02mIKoM6D9W65mlfDCSsEHvJ4hU44R1TVYh48neSuzhYg67g/s1600/air.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZ0tlJ3KnisTe4d2msTNj_HOmWBeSdUvFSF0O4H7S6Gq9YI59cKivA0wn51wzGyK27HZqNsy1jk4lGh_PKXzVRC02mIKoM6D9W65mlfDCSsEHvJ4hU44R1TVYh48neSuzhYg67g/s320/air.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Here is a video shot from footage on Tony Richardson's camera:<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18634842" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/18634842">Rohr Shred w/ Tony Katja and Candace</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2135407">Jason Kruk</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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Check back from time to time, I will try and get some dispatches from our trip us!JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-13183882599608061792010-12-09T13:19:00.000-08:002010-12-09T13:24:52.981-08:00Ice Videos<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mOVI78kycOvGOV1NRBCEeMOcRSYXcBLDxrwJS0EFwhhe3kf9U1Vw-wJnPfrUP1tGqUd1SKBpZwW21E8TXzjAihUHbCmaki9c2iBNGjbCBZH566Dmb3_DOaZG4PHEH5PrujWa7w/s1600/photo1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mOVI78kycOvGOV1NRBCEeMOcRSYXcBLDxrwJS0EFwhhe3kf9U1Vw-wJnPfrUP1tGqUd1SKBpZwW21E8TXzjAihUHbCmaki9c2iBNGjbCBZH566Dmb3_DOaZG4PHEH5PrujWa7w/s400/photo1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul McSorley loving the sweet first pitch of the Replicant. Paul, a former Bow Valley resident now 'living in flip-flops' on the coast, can still send the pillars with a furious vengeance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Z6e4eqn-w4rUp5frCfMUY1xnt2vy9fVa_Lrhv0I_1OgfUZDCHlvRkLOnlvCwe1UlZClGw1R0Wvle1eMw-8RXk3ri-lZ97a7frQkYWyjt9MAmdAlbzIMDhaCYOvqq5vbs_IyJig/s1600/photo3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Z6e4eqn-w4rUp5frCfMUY1xnt2vy9fVa_Lrhv0I_1OgfUZDCHlvRkLOnlvCwe1UlZClGw1R0Wvle1eMw-8RXk3ri-lZ97a7frQkYWyjt9MAmdAlbzIMDhaCYOvqq5vbs_IyJig/s400/photo3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pablo in sweet dangler country on pitch number two.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4i74I7MLplMNS77GHcBlIcd1gsQ-T6-Y7WL9KxlnC8V7OfKL3nq7cDwAFU9RchVKdDzgwMUq_p3jVslUpDfZv9sTtUye7HxtMIAYsWa9ObMooccc0cbuiq5Q53uWyF8ndlZJ8A/s1600/photo6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ4i74I7MLplMNS77GHcBlIcd1gsQ-T6-Y7WL9KxlnC8V7OfKL3nq7cDwAFU9RchVKdDzgwMUq_p3jVslUpDfZv9sTtUye7HxtMIAYsWa9ObMooccc0cbuiq5Q53uWyF8ndlZJ8A/s400/photo6.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At lunch, the squished pizza from your pack looks weird.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span id="goog_1135908431"></span><span id="goog_1135908432"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I stole the video footage from Paul's camera and roughly cut it together. It's raw, unedited footy of the Replicant, one of the Bow Valley's finest cascades:<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17170061" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/17170061">Replicant</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2135407">Jason Kruk</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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I went to a dinner party the other night where everyone had to bring a five minute slide show about, well, anything. A bunch of my friends had been on exotic sport climbing trips to warm locals recently, so we got a taste of climbing in places like Greece, and the deep south USA. I decided to make something about a day of climbing I did with my friend Tim two days prior. We decided to check out the winter climbing potential on the Green River Bastion, a granite cliff near Pemberton. We had a great day out, the ice wasn't climbable in places, forcing old-school scrappy mixed climbing - a favourite technique of mine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuK15-PjREm6awvE5Zjk0vVGXkyAeo43zh3N2d4w4NmEnsbl6YDVD8rjd4-HqU20rshDID9W8P5_MUZ1JC8-1aA5hqbpoJuOOAKJbWdWi9T_CHr1oLUOsOLMtLodd-V08FAMh2pQ/s1600/IMG_0259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuK15-PjREm6awvE5Zjk0vVGXkyAeo43zh3N2d4w4NmEnsbl6YDVD8rjd4-HqU20rshDID9W8P5_MUZ1JC8-1aA5hqbpoJuOOAKJbWdWi9T_CHr1oLUOsOLMtLodd-V08FAMh2pQ/s400/IMG_0259.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Emmett below <i>Blue Moon on Rye.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I was really busy teaching leading up to the party, so I was only able to hastily edit something together right before. Here it is:<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17252956" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/17252956">'Aving it.... With Tim Emmett</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2135407">Jason Kruk</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14870976.post-21815026805360338642010-11-12T14:25:00.000-08:002010-11-12T14:29:02.598-08:00Two ExtremesJust finished a few days of filming in Joshua Tree, California, a place I hadn't been since I was on my first major road trip with Will S back in the day. If it wasn't for the pain in my fingertips and my aching muscles, I'd call it one of the most pleasant rock climbing trips ever. Warm temps, short approaches, amazing lines, and incredible vistas.<br />
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Now I am in the Canadian Rockies with Paul McSorely and Jorge Ackerman, where yesterday we woke up to -15<span id="search" style="visibility: visible;">°C temps, fragile ice, and it seems I am getting sick. Why do I like this sport again?</span><br />
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<span id="search" style="visibility: visible;">Paul was a Bow Valley resident and ice aficionado now living in 'retirement'. He wears flip-flops every day of the year in Squamish. Jorge is the best young climber in Argentina, with first ascents on Fitz Roy and a hot lap up the Ferrari route on the Torre.</span><br />
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<span id="search" style="visibility: visible;"><br /></span>JKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07430307251908485043noreply@blogger.com0