Cerro Torre SE Ridge Attempt

Geisler and I had an epic week up in the Torre Valley.  The weather looked windy but climbable.   This would be our last chance as Chris had to leave in a couple days and Cerro Torre was still rimed and unclimbable.  Think giant Torre popsicle.  With the Torre out of condition we opted for, I think, plan C... or was that D?  We were the first ones to arrive at basecamp and dug out our cache, basking in the peace and quiet, knowing that soon Niponino would be a full circus.

We settled on trying a new route on one of the towers on the east side of the valley.  It took us about 12 hours or so, maybe more, to approach the base of the route from basecamp.  No jokes.  About 10 or so approach pitches and tons of walking in zig-zags.  Chris mostly led as I began to get really sick with the flu or some similar condition.  We finally got to the base of the route and I was able to lay down in the sun for a little bit and recharge my batteries.  I led a couple pitches - steeper and harder than expected - to the only ledge feature of the line.  We hadn't intended on stopping, but I was sick and Geisler was feeling low energy.  Our hope was that after a rest we would be able to continue the next day and top out.  We open-bivied here without stove or bivy gear, super rugged.  Needless to say we weren't feeling any better the next morning, so we bailed, which was just as complicated and time-consuming as the approach.

We cashed-in our chips, it was a mostly unsuccessful trip to Patagonia.  The next morning we packed up early as Geisler had to catch his bus that afternoon.  We shouldered our enormous loads - I am still in disbelief as to the amount of climbing gear we hiked into the Torre Valley.  On the hike out we noticed the Cerro Torre headwall had shed quite a bit in the last days of sun and we were met by reports of good weather for the next couple days.  With only minutes to make the 'should we stay or should we go' decision, it was clear, we would try what we came to Patagonia to attempt.  Geisler dropped his pack on the glacier and ran to town to change his ticket while I shuttled the packs back to camp.  He got back to Niponino at 3:30 am after the usual frustrations of last-minute ticket changing.  A 30km round trip!  We were stoked to the max!

We slept in, giving Geisler a chance to rest.  He had hiked a takeout steak up from town and we devoured it, including soggy French fries and wilting salad, for breakfast.  We left camp the next morning at 10:00 am for the Torre.  The snow was isothermic by the time we got to it so the approach pitches of mixed climbing to the shoulder required a bit of creativity.  Geisler was pretty worked after his 30km hike the night before, but at least he was able to ride the jumars for a while - albeit with the big pack.  With all that we had done in the past few days we weren't exactly setting any speed records up there.  I led and short-fixed as Chris followed with the larger pack and the jumars.  Our friends Colin Haley and Zach Smith, who were trying the same project up the SE ridge rappelled past us, bailing.  They told us it was too cold and windy and they only had lightweight sleeping bags each to bivy in.  Chris and I chatted, we only had one lightweight sleeping bag to share, but we were committed and were not bailing now.  We bivied just below the Salvaterra variation to the great bolt traverse the first night, I spent a long time chopping a ledge into the ice for us to sleep on.  The night was cold, but luxurious compared to the horrible bivy we had two nights previous.

I continued to lead the next day.  At the ice towers Chris was getting frustrated being the pack mule on the jumars so he took over the leading.  David Lama was on the Torre aid climbing up the bolts so we were being buzzed all day long by a helicopter film crew.  Truly frustrating.  It grew dark and we ended up climbing through the night on the headwall, very exciting.  We followed the wrong feature out left and eventually dead-ended after Geisler led an 8-hour pitch of techno aid, taking one whipper when the flake he was hooking on ripped.  Geisler did a lot of climbing when you were the most rad if you did the hard aid stuff.  He did early repeats of El Cap terrors and established and repeated the most serious of the Squamish bigwalls. 

Our highpoint was about 40m below the top of the headwall says Pataclimb.com.  (Climbing.com says 50m, I am not sure where they got their information for their newspiece).  A storm started, a full whiteout turned our ropes and beards instantly frosty and the winds turned nuclear up there.  We bailed quickly thanks to all the bolts.

When we arrived, basecamp was a ghost town, we were the last tent remaining.  Early the next morning Chris hiked to town to catch his bus to the airport.  I slept in and hiked out that afternoon with a crippling load on my back.  After running into Chris and hearing our story, Zack Smith and Hayden Kennedy hiked in with beer and empty packs to help me carry out my load.  A truly brotherly gesture, but somehow we missed each other on the trail.  I really could have used the medication of a litro of Quilmes.

I’ll post some photos when I leave Chalten, the internet here is shockingly slow.
Geisler must have run into Rolo before his departure, because details of our climb ended up on his website pataclimb.com.  Here’s what he had to say about it all:


In February of 2011 Canadians Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk came very close to pulling off a complete "fair means" ascent of the SE ridge of Cerro Torre, reaching a point 40 meters below of the top of the headwall without using any of Maestri's bolts for progression. They followed the Salvaterra-Mabboni and Wharton-Smith lines to the headwall, then climbed the first headwall pitch right over the bolts but without using them (free at 5+), to then move right for a pitch (they aided some but estimated it would go free at 6c), later crossing left of the bolted line to reach an obvious ledge one pitch below the compressor. From here they climbed left to a point level with the compressor but about 40 meters left of it. In the early morning, after having climbed through the night and in very high winds Geisler finished his lead by traversing back right following a thin seam, to eventually make a pendulum that took him to the third bolt down from the compressor. From that point they retreat. In the darkness Geisler failed to notice features further left that likely would have allowed him to climb a completetly independent fair means line to the top. On that last pitch, which required 8 hours, Geisler placed a single bolt climbing left and one while traversing right back to the compressor. Hats off for such a great effort!!

Chris is gone now, but I am still here and ready to try again!

David Lama to Rap Bolt Cerro Torre

Here is some background:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-david-lama-compressor-bolts
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10x/newswire-lama-speaks-compressor
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10f/newswire-flash-bolts-cut
http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/06/25/cerro-torre-david-lama-and-red-bullshit/

This year Chris Geisler and I won the John Lauchlan memorial grant for an unconventional project.  We are in Argentine Patagonia at the moment with hopes of climbing the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre (also know as the Compressor Route) without utilizing any of Cesare Maestri's bolts.

Also planning on something similar are our friends Colin Haley and Zach Smith.  Naturally, there has been A LOT of talk about the SE ridge between us: comparing strategies, possible variations to the line, equipment, etc.  About a week ago David Lama and a crew of mountain guides and videographers arrived with intentions of resuming their project from last year - freeing the line of the Compressor Route, with Red Bull again the sponsor of the project.

The four of us as well as Rolo Garibotti have been in several dialogues with the Red Bull crew, hoping to gain some insight as to their intentions and the style in which they choose to attempt their project.  We wanted to let them know of our plans so that everyone can be accommodated on the route and to ensure that our experience wouldn't be impacted by their tactics.

It has come out today that Lama and crew plan to climb to the top of Cerro Torre following Maestri's bolt line, then rappel from the top and rappel-bolt the best line for free climbing.  Lama claims that this is the only way in which he will be able to complete the project within the next 5 years.  He also says he can take the shit storm that is sure to ensue.

I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.

Climbing, Skiing, Patagonia, and Chris Geisler

Well, I am busy packing the full alpine arsenal on the floor of the humble cabin I share with my girlfriend Elise.  Various Arc'teryx jackets and pants cover almost the entire extent of the floor, and cams and spiky bits of ice climbing gear threaten to poke at us if we are not careful where we step.  I'm behind schedule in packing for my trip, and I will undoubtedly leave a hurricane for her to clean up in my wake... (sorry babe).

This year I applied for, and won, the John Lauchlan memorial grant for a trip to Patagonia with Chris Geisler.  John was a legendary Canadian climber who had a global impact on the sport of alpinism.  I am deeply honored to receive an award in his honor and am excited to perpetuate his spirit of adventure.

Out for a midwinter walk with Elise and Kafka the dog.

Midwinter in Squamish is feared by many residents, but I thoroughly enjoyed my short stint at a domestic life in the rain.  I find Squamish is a beautiful place to live year round, only if your happiness isn't dependent on the weather.  I haven't really climbed much in preparation for this trip, which is kinda how I like it.  Chris and I went out for a day with Jai Condon in search of elusive coastal ice to climb.  We ended up at the Suicide Bluffs just south of Pemberton, it was 0 degrees and threatening to rain.

Jia Condon photos

Geisler stemming hard on a very wet Psycho Pillar

The pillar was dripping wet, my Goretex was instantly wetted out.  In a word: miserable.  It reminded me what the very worst of coastal ice climbing feels like.  It's because of this that I prefer to go skiing whenever possible.  I believe ski touring to be some of the best cross-training possible for alpinism.  Skiing is almost always awesomely fun, it's usually hard work, and if you are scared, at least you are having fun.

Here is a video shot from footage on Tony Richardson's camera:

Rohr Shred w/ Tony Katja and Candace from Jason Kruk on Vimeo.

Check back from time to time, I will try and get some dispatches from our trip us!

Ice Videos

Paul McSorley loving the sweet first pitch of the Replicant. Paul, a former Bow Valley resident now 'living in flip-flops' on the coast, can still send the pillars with a furious vengeance.

Two Extremes

Just finished a few days of filming in Joshua Tree, California, a place I hadn't been since I was on my first major road trip with Will S back in the day.  If it wasn't for the pain in my fingertips and my aching muscles, I'd call it one of the most pleasant rock climbing trips ever.  Warm temps, short approaches, amazing lines, and incredible vistas.

Now I am in the Canadian Rockies with Paul McSorely and Jorge Ackerman, where yesterday we woke up to -15°C temps, fragile ice, and it seems I am getting sick.  Why do I like this sport again?

Paul was a Bow Valley resident and ice aficionado now living in 'retirement'.  He wears flip-flops every day of the year in Squamish.  Jorge is the best young climber in Argentina, with first ascents on Fitz Roy and a hot lap up the Ferrari route on the Torre.

Birthday at Home

I have spent my birthday every year in recent memory on the road, away from home.  November is prime road tripping season, a sweet prolonging of the summer as Squamish turns into a dark and wet town for half the year.  This was my birthday last year, spent 30+ pitches up on El Capitan, during a trip up the Golden Gate:


El Cap Birthday from Jason Kruk on Vimeo.

The dark months are the personal hell of many residents, but I've always enjoyed the downtime of rain.  A chance to take care of the overflow of office work that piles up on my desk, take in some much needed culture from the big city down the road, and get my freak on in the kitchen.  I've always tried to ensure my happiness isn't predicated upon the weather.

By chance the sun shined brilliantly on this, my 23rd birthday, so I got out on my favourite route, the Grand Wall with two of my favourite people: Elise and Paul.  It turned out to be the best birthday of recent memory, Elise even baked me a cake and two pies.  Here's what it looked like:

The Summer That Was

Summer in Squamish is over.  With every year they keep getting better.

I can't say I rock climbed much this summer.  Instead, I enjoyed the simple joys of community in the perfect ocean-side mountain town I call home.  I drank espresso every morning on the patio and was awoken by the incredible vistas that extend from the Howe Sound fjord of the Pacific to the Garibaldi icecap.  The summer was about kitchen explosions and creative colabs of soul food cooking, watering my rooftop garden, drinking lots of good wine, and throwing some really great parties.  My batteries have been recharged and I am now ready to think about getting after it in the fall and winter.  Almost overnight I have grown hungry again for the mountains.

The website ClimbingNarc.com did an interview with me a couple weeks ago.  Can't say I had anything too stunning to say, but you can find it here.

My patio, the Chief, and the disco ball.  I rigged this one with care: on loan to me from Hevy Duty's living room, it's the original (circa 1970) from the old Squamish bowling alley.

 My day job for many summer weeks.  Here are three CBC students about to summit 'the jewel of the Joffre Range' Mt. Hartzell.

Eventually you head south.  Sweet Smith Rocks with Elise and Kafka the dog.

And then a little further south...

The Gravity Bong

Colin Moorhead loves rock climbing more than anyone I know.  This year, he has been in great form, stronger than I've ever seen him.  He recently completed one of the best hard lines to go up on the Chief.  I came out of rock climbing hiatus to accompany him up the FFA of his Prow Wall vision, the Gravity Bong.  Was quite the pleasure.

Beta can be found here

Dick Wheater's photos are here

Boogie 'Til You Poop

When one of the funniest and most outrageous things imaginable happens to you and is caught on film, I reckon it's your duty to share it with the world.


Boogie 'til You Poop from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.


Sooo...  some background info:

This was filmed during the Squamish Mountain Festival for Cedar Wright's Squamish in a Day video.  The festival is always a highlight of the summer and I was heavily involved this time, giving a slideshow on opening night with alpine legend Barry Blanchard, teaching a clinic, and deejaying at the afterparty.  The Thursday night is always one of my favourite events, the pro photo shootout.  I was feeling especially festive that night because four of my friends were featured: Jon Walsh, John Dickey, Andy Burr, and Paul Bride.  I remember lots of free drink tickets and people refilling my glass with the exceptionally potent Howe Sound Brewpub beer.  I was not in fine form the next morning, but was awoken early by Cedar on the phone, reminding me we were going to go filming.

Cedar wanted to shoot me on the 5.11 off-width Boogie 'Til You Puke because as he said "off-width footage is always the best".  I was pretty sure that even in my weakened state I'd have little trouble with the pitch, as I had done it a few times before and never considered it a 'hard' off-width.  I don't consider myself a great off-width climber, but for whatever reason on alpine routes or bigwalls, I always seem to be the one who has to lead them.  Cedar mic'ed me, and the bulky hardware sat in my front pocket of my pants, getting in the way of my technique.  I felt quite queezy, and had to use the bathroom a few times already that day.

I grunted and sweated my way up the pitch, it certainly felt harder than it should have.  I finally passed the crux, and was tired of pushing up the only cam that would fit, so I left it in place, hand-stacking and knee-locking my way to the top.  I was quite run-out when the crack tapered down slightly in size so I remember squeezing my hand-stacks extra hard and really working to properly wedge my knee in.  I remember having the need to crap but holding it in.

When my knee became stuck, I tried to remain very calm and rational.  I did my very best to determine how it went in and reverse it, but to no avail.  The pain was extreme.  After several minutes I told Cedar he had to come down and help me out, it felt quite serious.  At least 25 minutes went by and despite Cedar's help, my knee remained stuck.  Quite a nightmare, really, I didn't know what to do.  I figured I must have gone in to shock, and would have thrown-up had I not been so dehydrated.

The need to go poo was overwhelming and the decision to just crap my pants was somewhat voluntary.  I thought it was worth it to be able to focus all my energy on getting my knee out.  Finally, I told Cedar just to pull as hard as he possibly could, I was willing to do anything to get free.  It hurt like hell, but with a good tug my knee came free and Will lowered me to the ground.

Andy and Cedar were unsure of what to do with the footage, they knew they just shot some of the best climbing footage ever but the release of it could be potentially damaging to me.  I was willing to look like a total chump on the internet if it would give the greater community pleasure.  It was my duty.  I told them they had to use it, it would go viral, and I would ask my sponsors for a raise.

I guess it's all sex and poop-jokes that really sell in this world.  It's funny that I'm trying hard at this pro-climber thing, trying to sell something, but no one cares about the routes I climb.  I crap my pants on camera and I get an inbox full of fan mail...

The Emperor

It's been a few years now since I've felt in decent rock climbing shape.  One problem with the whole multi-sport thing is unless your are supremely talented, it's hard to stay in top form in each one of the disciplines you practice.  This spring I had every intention of getting back into the sport of hard rock climbing and hopefully redpoint my hardest route to date.

I was trying.  I bouldered heavily while in Patagonia and came home with an edge up on spring training.  In Vancouver, I committed to training sessions in the climbing gym religiously for several weeks.  I just about glimpsed past strength levels too, when the fateful TSN Turning Point happened - I pulled a tendon pulley in my middle finger.  I was benched from holding any sort of grips, plastic or rockstone.  Even gripping ski poles was aggravating.  Finally, after a month and a half layoff, the finger felt just good enough to hold ice tools.  This development put and end to furious crimper training and I postulated on how to make the very most of my spring.

If alpine climbing was now the only thing in condition for me, there was one guy I knew I needed to get in contact with - Jon Walsh.  Jonny Red (JR) is my total hero.  He has climbed the kinds of routes around the globe that people dream of climbing.  Usually in an uncompromising, bold style - single push, fast, and free.  This is the very aesthetic that appeals to me.  His response was immediate and positive.  At the top of his hit list was a face I had dreamt about climbing since I was a kid, the storied Emperor Face of Mt. Robson.  We didn't have to talk tactics for very long to realize we were on the same page.  If we climbed fast with small packs we would only need a couple good days of weather, not the 5+ usually required for an ascent.  JR was adamant any face in the Rockies could be climbed in a weekend.  "I've realized I can climb continuously for 48 hours before I need to sleep," he claimed.

The Emperor Face from Mist Lake

The hike in is long, like 25 kms one-way long.  We ended up going in on three separate occasions; twice in May and then finally on June 19th.  The first trip ended in part due to bad weather and too much snow on the face, so on the second try we packed skis and our stiff touring boots just to hedge our bets.  Too much snow still clung to the rock on that attempt, so we switched into ski mode and attempted to ski off the very aesthetic Whitehorn.

The Whitehorn north face

I still haven't checked the map, but I reckon it was a ~60km, 12,000ft day of skiing car-to-car in 19 hours.

Hanging off an ice screw to clip in to your skis is tricky on a 50° face 

JR shredding

'Schrund work

The summer solstice seemed a ridiculous time to try and climb a 'winter' route, but with a plump snow pack this year and a mild spring, conditions were looking good for a try.  I had kept a full backpack packed just for Robson, incase we got the window we needed for another go.

On Friday the 18th, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove the 10 hours through the night to meet Jon in the Robson parking lot mid-morning.  We hiked in quickly and established a camp below the face.

Here is Jon's report published on the Alpinist website

Despite the continuous, cerebral (read: scary) nature of the climbing, it was a pure pleasure to climb such entertaining and sustained mixed ground for so long.  We climbed quickly, swinging leads the entire way up the face.  I can call the hardest pitch I lead M7 with a straight face.  We hit the top of the face at midnight as lightning struck to the north, clouds enveloped around us, and it started to snow a little.  At the time the decision was pretty easy to go down the Emperor Ridge and not continue to the summit.  Now, I can't help but wonder 'what if?'

It always seemed a little silly to argue over the very definitions we climbers make up ourselves.  Summit or not, it definitely felt like a new route.  In correspondence with a longtime Rockies climber, another hero of mine, his point was clear: "we're not arguing black or white here, rather, different shades of ugly".

Look for a feature article I'm writing for Gripped Magazine.  Here are some of my photos:

And JR's route line: