Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Rockies Steeps

Hayden and I showed up in the Rockies and poached the East (or is it NE) Face of Mt. Victoria on our very first day with Jon Walsh. Not a bad way to start a trip... 

A pic I stole via Google. The Chateau, Lake Louise, and Mt. Victoria. We skied off the tippy top...


Hayden and the Moon.



Nearing the end of the steeps.


JR's write up and stellar photos are here:

Thursday, June 23, 2011

More Morocco

So, I think Expedition Impossible premiers today, which I am sure you are all very excited about... 

I recently tried the North Twin with my buddy Hayden. He wrote about it on the Patagonia blog here:

http://www.thecleanestline.com/2011/06/getting-satisfaction-on-the-north-face-of-north-twin.html

Before I talk about the North Twin, let me finish off Morocco first.

I am currently in the UK, en route to Italy. Very excited.

Essouira.

Pablo has slack skills. I do not.

I call this Blue Boats.

Moroc yallah.

Natural enemies? Neither is very bothered by the other, I think we could learn a lot from this bird and this cat.

The Medieval fortress of Essouira. They filmed Othello here.

Tony Touch on our way to the Taghia Gorge.

Tony T on Barraka. 700m of plaisir 7b.

Jebel Oujdad towers over the village of Taghia.

The tanning pits in Fez.

Typical roadside cafe fare.

The ultra-cosmique town of Chefchaouen. Everything is blue.

A cute German couple we met in Chef... Haha. They both like to wear Arc'teryx.

The Berber culture is pretty cool.

Chef kitty.

Tony T aka the German in Akchour. The stoke-factor is huge.

Fez medina.

The mega wall in Akchour. 1000' overhanging tufas. Radical.

Akchour is a half hour from the Med!

The lush Akchour Valley and one of its inhabitants.

Friday, May 27, 2011

Morocco

I recently returned from almost two months in Morocco where I was working on a gag for American television. The show was a Mark Burnett creation called Expedition Impossible, the trailer is above. Normally I wouldn't watch this kind of TV, but this show will showcase the incredible beauty of Morocco, and could be well worth the watch.
I traveled extensively around the country. Wow, what a great place. The diversity of environments and the rich culture make it a must-see destination.
After the stint of work was over, Elise flew and met me in Marrakech. From there we traveled to the ocean-side surf town Essaouira so I could decompress a little.
The now famous Taghia Gorge was our next stop and it delivered the goods. We cruised classic bolted limestone routes up to 2000' long. Mostly vertical or less, these were the perfect routes to condition our arms for what was to come next. On the local 'chicken run' bus out of Zaoia Ahensale, the town at the trailhead to Taghia, we fortuitously met some Spanish climbers who told us about the Akchour Valley. They described 1000' overhanging sport climbs dripping with tufas in a lush valley a stones throw from the Mediterranean. That's all we needed to hear before making the necessary travel arrangements. We were on our way to check it out.
On the way we spent a few days engulfed in the madness of the medieval Fez medina, a truly crazy place to go get lost. After a day in the ultra-cosmique town of Chefchaouen, we piled into a taxi and embarked on the windy roads north to Akchour.
Our low expectations were shot out of the park by what we stumbled upon: amazing walls lined the valley and Mr. Abdul welcomed us into his centrally-located gite, a cosmic place to hang out after a day of first-class limestone. With only time for a sampler of the routes, we made the most of it, exploring the different sectors and taking note of the great potential of the place.
I highly recommend a trip to the adventurous climber looking to sample high quality Moroccan stone, and maybe add a route of your own!
Skyler takes a photo of the traffic lines, which are usually ignored anyways. Casablanca.

Tony is a tired panda. Pablos feet stink.

Digs for a couple nights.

Pablo and I enjoying a mandatory Moroccan "Land Cruiser bumper ride". One of many.

Voldemort is hanging out in Tinghir... Just kidding, it's J Smith.

Abraheim and I chilling in the Todra Gorge. A pure soul.

Pablo doing what he does best: consuming sketchy street meat. The sketchier, the better. It's a passion.

Why isn't North America this civilized?

Our hotel in the Todra Gorge. The bigwall above overhangs the place. I wondered how many times stonefall has demoed the roof...

Todra.

Pablo sampling my nut sack. Almond heaven.

Pablo and I climbed the classic moderate of the Todra. Cams were superfluous, it had been heavily retroed.

I went skiing in Africa. Stoked!

Buff and his horse.

Shredding Moroccan gnar.

Ski extrême.

My buddy Kris lent me his sticks. Thanks Kris!

The beautiful Tolkein Canyon.

Tolkein.

The name of this village escapes me, but I truly enjoyed my time here.

The village near Tolkein.

Jimmy Orava.

Our friend Hassan in Ouzoud.

Ouidane... I think...

Tony and I put up some classic sport pitches on first class Moroccan limestone.

Aiding and bolting the steeps is hard!

Orange and blue stone, dripping with God's Own Tufas.

Tony on "Spicy Mackerel". A reference to the sub-par lunches I was eating with Jimmy and Fish.

Rollin' in my djellaba.