Wednesday, May 23, 2012

What Happened in Patagonia?


Most have likely read about my and Hayden Kennedy's trip to the Cerro Torre range in southern Patagonia this past winter, so I won't go into much detail. We had what I would describe as an audacious season, climbing all four Torres (Standhardt, Herron, Egger, Cerro Torre) in fine fast style. Also, a new route on another beautiful face we called The Gentleman's Club. We managed to be the first to skip the hundreds of bolts placed along Cerro Torre's southeast ridge, what they called a 'fair means' ascent. We then proceeded to remove over a hundred bolts from the mountain, restoring the summit of the Torre to its rightful place amongst the most difficult spots on the planet to reach.

The alpine Fitz tease above the Rio de las Vueltas.

Hayden and I on the summit of Torre Egger.


Many legendary figures spoke out in support of our actions, some vilified us. Both are equally unimportant - that's their story, not ours. I've included links below to some opinions, if anyone is keen to read a bunch of people's thoughts on our actions. If not please skip ahead to a couple photos from climbing in Patagonia with Hayden Kennedy, and a few of what I've been up to recently:

An Impossible Mountain by Rolando Garibotti
A Word from Yvon Chouinard
Taliban on Cerro Torre by Stefano Lovison
Cerro Torre by Mario Conti
Deviations from Reason by Kelly Cordes
Cerro Torre Gets The Chop from National Geographic Adventure
Cerro Torre by Peter Beal
Compressor Chopped Alpinist.com
Hayden Kennedy Interview/Podcast Enormocast


HK in the Exocet ice chimney.

HK follows a rad ice tunnel on Punta Herron.

HK styles the Cerro Torre headwall.

The Torres


It was great to be back home in Squamish in early spring. I did some awesome steep skiing in the coast range and some huge days of powder slaying with some key motivated brothers. My fitness was nearing an all time high. Almost every day I would charge up the backside of the Squamish Chief with a heavily loaded paraglider bag. Perfect training for alpinism - and I could fly off and land some 200' from my house.

Scoping out the Prow and Pan Walls on my glider. I called up fellow Squamish pilot Paul McSorley just before I launched and he took these shots from his front deck.

In Squamish in winter, it stops raining and the winds pick up a little pretty much every day. If you time it right you can fly almost every day. Paul McSorley photo.

The bad news came that my expedition to Pakistan fell threw. I was bummed. To cheer up I boarded a plane for France a couple days later with alpine climbing gear, skis, and a paraglider. I was planning on a mountain holiday of north faces, steep skiing, and lots of flying in the Chamonix area. The weather would not cooperate, forcing us pretty soon to the south of France for sunny sport climbing and world class flying in the historic Gorges du Verdon. Not a bad compromise!

Tony grimping high above the lake... rocking the beret hard.

Me and Touch flying above the town of Moustier St. Marie. Paul McSorley Photo.

Touch on a classic Verdon pitch of 6c.





Paul McSorley photo.



Paul McSorley photo.

Walking to launch. Paul McSorley photo.


But launching before a coffee would be so sauvage... Paul McSorley photo.


High wind launch in Verdon. Paul McSorley photo.

Normally I would have been confused as to were to go, but luckily I had this arrow to show the way. Paul McSorley photo.

Cocktail hour with Pennings and Jimmy on the rim of the gorge! Paul McSorley photo.

Puffy clouds or excessive chalking? Paul McSorley photo.

Paul McSorley photo.

Paul McSorley photo.

Paul McSorley photo.

I'm not sure if Paul ruined this photo or made it way better...

Tony, flying like Jesus. Paul McSorley photos.

Annecy, Tony's village. Paul McSorley photo.

Oblig Cham cocktail hour. Paul McSorley photo.

Local cliff launch with Austin and Pablo.

HK and Troutman. On Acid.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Honorable mention... Smokes, Let's Go!

Tony Touch open bivies on Mt. Waddington

I've been trying pretty hard at alpine climbing these past few years, and have been dealt some rough cards... It's just how this games goes and I wouldn't have it any other way. It's nice to get a little bit of recognition from time to time though, simply to stoke the fire for future attempts.
The North Twin is personal. I put everything into trying to climb it... twice now! I will be back ASAP for another go because I really, really want to climb on it again. I was really surprised and quite flattered when the North American climbing media picked up on my attempts and decided that they were worthy of a side note. Charitable, maybe, I'll take it. Those tries meant a lot.
Dougald McDonald wrote this very kind article for climbing.com - you can read it here:
More recently Rock & Ice magazine gave HK and I honorable mention for top ascents of 2011 here:
Chris and Pablo in our local Squamish 'pine the Tantalus Range.

I forgot to post the second Smokes, Let's Go! Radio along with my Mexi fly update. I think it is pretty fun, so I'll post it now. A tad ADD, but we'll chalk that up to the bottle of mezcal drunk during it's creation. Besides, variety is good and playing out songs is lame...

Smokes, Let's Go! Radio #2 - Valle de Bravo by jasonkruk

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

¡Viva México!

I have a few minutes to update the blog from El Chalten, Patagonia. I'm here climbing with Hayden Kennedy. We are stoked.
I just spent a month in the world-class paragliding venue of Valle de Bravo, Mexico, learning how to fly my paraglider. This is something I took up this past September with great interest. I am now a full-blown flying addict, I have seen the light. Unlike BASE jumping, which requires ideal conditions and STEEP terrain, paragliding is very conducive to mountain travel. Modern gear is way light, and you can take off in higher winds and fly from point A to point B, how rad is that?
Valle is a charming Mexican village with steep cobbled streets and very friendly locals, and the flying is on almost every day of the year. There I met up with my good friend, and world-class pilot Jim Orava, and a crew of other monkies and flew for hours every day. I progressed quickly, and was eventually piecing together amazing cross-country flights that lasted for several hours.
The highlight for me was eventually flying all the way back to town from the launch site. A task not unlike climbing Squamish's Grand Wall for the first time - except I had a grin way bigger than the first time I climbed the Grand Wall. It lasted for days...
Valle is near some truly world class limestone sport climbing, so I could not resist visiting the mind-blowing Chonta cave near Taxco. Emailing for beta, my Swiss amiga Nina told me I wasn't strong enough to climb there! Ha! Turns out you don't need to be so strong when you are holding on to tufas bigger than yourself!
This part of the world is true paradise, I know it won't be long before I build a sweet mexi villa to retire to for a few month each year...
Some mexi snaps:
Life is never too stressful. The volcanic rock of the Peñon behind. Pablo and I took one afternoon off flying and summitted the torre.

My morning routine included buying a liter of juice. Fresh squeezed, whatever fruit and veg combo you can dream up...

Flying off El Peñon launch.

Getting cloud-sucked while on tadem with El Jimador. Going cross-country flying with Jimmy was a perfect way to learn.

So stoked on flying it home to Valle from the Peñon launch.

Coming in high over town.

We were invited by the Mexican government to visit the nearby town of Tejuphichu to fly off a brand new site. They threw a town-wide party and invited us on stage for some reason... The whole tour was set up by our friend Solomon. They really hooked us up!

The town mayor congratulating us....

Mezcal. Como no?

While on a cross-country bid, I stuffed it one day in the small town of San Pedro, necessitating one of the longer taxi rides back to town. Here I caught a view of the interesting colors of this bird and the wall.

Pablo orders uno round mas para todo.

We couldn't miss out on the nearby Chonta Cave and the village of Taxco, the puebla de plata.

El Jimador himself as asador.

La Chonta!

Pitch one of seven pitch Mala Fama. This cave is out of control.

I didn't take this photo from my paraglider. En route to YVR for a two day layover at home...

Palabra!